heat only works in half the house

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Old 02-23-08, 05:07 AM
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heat only works in half the house

i have two zones of heating in my house. one zone works fine the other has problems, some of the baseboard heat (water) in the problem zone gets warm when I turn the thermostat up and some of it doesn"t. Is it possible to get air bubbles in a system like this? The old fashion radiators had a valve you could open to relive the air, Can this happen with baseboard heat? Is there a solution?

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rj (chilly in MASS)
 
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Old 02-23-08, 08:04 AM
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Yes... you should take some near boiler pictures of all the piping. The purge pros will then tell what what you need to do.

If you could identify which piping supplies the problem zone.
 
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Old 02-23-08, 02:47 PM
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purge pros

who would the purge pros be. Do I go to Home Depot? If I call a plumber, then for what they'll charge wouldn't they just do it? I still prefer to do it myself.
thanks
rj
 
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Old 02-23-08, 05:10 PM
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rick, Who (aka Mr. Monoflow Mod-Con Buffer Tank) probably was bein' a wise-guy ... he's good at that ! (as am I!)

Take some pictures as Who said, set up a free account on www.photobucket.com and put the pics there. Provide us with a link to the album and we'll take a look-see and help ya through getting the air out.

Yes, you absolutely can have air in a baseboard system.

What is the pressure reading on the gauge on the boiler ?

You may have air bleeds on the baseboards, grab a flashlight and take a look, particularly at the ends of the runs, anywhere the piping may turn down and into the floor. They will be small-ish, and have either a screw (or coin) slot, or a square 'clock key' head on them.

But, before you bleed anything, let's make sure your pressure is OK.
 
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Old 03-02-08, 11:59 AM
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link to boiler photos

http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg228/rickarchitect/

the pipes in the zone that isnt working is just warm, the pipe in the zone that is working is hot.
I included pictuers of the gauge, the system and the hose bibs onthe returns. I was reading that one solution is to turn all the thermostats up and attach a hose to the spicket of the problem pipes and run the water out?
let me know if you have a problem getting into the site
thanks for the help
Rick
 

Last edited by NJT; 03-02-08 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 03-02-08, 02:05 PM
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Rick, in the pic "boiler5" there is a red wire just hanging there. That's probably a big part of your problem right there. That zone valve probably isn't opening. See if you can determine which terminal that came off of and repair that first.

Then, if you have a chance, can ya go to your photobucket page and rotate those sideways shots ? my neck hurts ...
 
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Old 03-02-08, 02:27 PM
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You don't want to introduce any more fresh water into a heating system than you absolutely need to. So, before doing any bleeding or purging, make sure it's necessary. See if fixing that broken wire don't get the house heating again.

I was reading that one solution is to turn all the thermostats up and attach a hose to the spicket of the problem pipes and run the water out?
Well, sorta...

I would do this with the boiler OFF for starters. And I would let it cool down a bit... like 100 or so. Too easy to get hurt with an accidental blast of 180 water in your face.

There's a way to manually open the zone valves... so you don't need the thermostats turned up, no. You would manually open the zone valve for the zone you are working on.

You would also want to use the yellow handle ball valves on the return pipes to direct the water through the loop you are working on. If you don't close that valve on the zone you want to purge, the water won't go fully through the zone, it will go through the boiler, and out that drain rather than through the zone. Closing the valve below the one you are purging will force the water to go through only that zone.

Then there's a gadget on the pressure reducing valve called the 'fast fill' . You would open that to get a good flow of water through the zone...

But, you might not need to do it ...

Also, your pressure looks fine at 15 PSI, the temperature is pretty high though.

I'm not sure that I'd trust that gauge completely... evidence of water leaking inside the gauge ain't a good sign... but it could still be accurate, no way of knowing unless you compare to a known good gauge. Do the gauges move ? when the boiler goes from cold to hot ? You should see a few (5-8 ? or so) PSI increase, and I wouldn't wanna see more than 190 or so on the temp side before the burner cut off on high limit.

See that gray box on the front of the boiler ? Turn off the boiler (120VAC present inside that box!) and take the cover off. There's a temperature dial in there. Don't move it just yet, but tell us what it's set at...
 
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Old 03-02-08, 10:02 PM
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by the way... the flue pipe is wrong. There should be an elbow in place of that tee, and the draft regulator should be teed off the run... not hanging out there on the end of the pipe .
 
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