still having problem
#1
02-23-08, 01:59 PM
having trouble with a honeywell boiler
replaced relay box and now the boiler will not go on it's own help anyone?????
#2
02-23-08, 02:11 PM
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Honeywell boiler
As far as I know, Honeywell does not make boilers. Is it gas or oil fired? What relay did you replace? Pictures of the boiler, controls, & near boiler piping would be a help. You can post them on photobucket.com or similar site & provide a link here.
#3
02-23-08, 02:33 PM
new info
sorry i am fustrated its a oil boiler and honeywell is the maker of the relay box for the burner posted the pics on photobucket i am new at this bear with me thanks
#4
02-23-08, 02:40 PM
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Pictures
OK, were making progress. I suspected the boiler to be oil fired & the relay Honeywell but wanted to be sure. Can you please provide the web address to the pics on photobucket?
#5
02-23-08, 03:12 PM
hi
the photobucket adress is http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh203/fernnref/
Last edited by NJT; 02-23-08 at 03:56 PM. Reason: display full album
#6
02-23-08, 04:54 PM
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Relay
I presume the relay you replaced is the one with all of the wires disconnected. Are you sure you have the new one wired correctly? The dials should be set as follows:High 180º Low 160º, Diff (if you have this dial) 15-20º.
What does the burner do that it should not or doesn't do that it should? Do you have a volt meter & know how to use it?
What does the burner do that it should not or doesn't do that it should? Do you have a volt meter & know how to use it?
#7
02-23-08, 05:16 PM
thank u
yes the wires are correct and i did measure the voltage the boiler is working it doesn't (burner) kick on i turn it on by pressing the don't know the name on the motor see pic
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...f/100_1610.jpg metal piece on the right up from the screws
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...f/100_1610.jpg metal piece on the right up from the screws
#8
02-23-08, 05:25 PM
it runs and then shuts off
it never comes back on i have to keep pressing on the relay? or whatever it get it started but once it hits the temp to shut off it never comes back on
#9
02-23-08, 05:39 PM
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Metal piece
If you are refering to the T shaped piece in the box on top of the burner, and next to the red reset button, that is the burner relay. It is not field replaceable. You would have to replace the whole metal box. It is a Honeywell R8184G. You could also use a Honeywell
R7184A. That control is called the primary control.
R7184A. That control is called the primary control.
#13
02-23-08, 06:10 PM
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Primary control
Be sure to install a jumper between terminals T & T on the new control. If the ends of the yellow wires are frayed & there is enough wire, trim off the ends & re-strip.
#14
02-23-08, 07:00 PM
CAUSE of the problem ?
It appears that the CAUSE of the problem is flue gas condensate dripping out of the joints in the flue pipe and onto the control.
Maybe you should find a way to cure that cause ?
Maybe you should find a way to cure that cause ?
still having problem
#18
02-23-08, 08:49 PM
Fernando... relax amigo ...
What did you do that is 'still not working' ?
You replaced the aquastat relay, and got it all wired back up, and then it still didn't work.
So, now you replaced the primary control, and it still is not working ?
Did you install a jumper on the T-T terminals as Grady said ?
Are the yellow wires connected ?
Are you sure that the black, white, and orange wires are connected properly ?
What did you do that is 'still not working' ?
You replaced the aquastat relay, and got it all wired back up, and then it still didn't work.
So, now you replaced the primary control, and it still is not working ?
Did you install a jumper on the T-T terminals as Grady said ?
Are the yellow wires connected ?
Are you sure that the black, white, and orange wires are connected properly ?
#19
02-23-08, 08:51 PM
Why don't you take some pictures that clearly show the new aquastat and the wiring, and some pictures of the new primary control and the wiring ? That may help us to see if something is not wired correctly.
