Hi all my google searches lead here, so I decided to post for help on this board.

I am looking to replace a combustion chamber liner in my old 1950's American Standard Arcoliner. Whats in there now is kind of ripped up and not properly placed square liner. It is not glued to any walls. The burner flame is hitting the top of the liner and the back wall. I read about the Quickie chamber here.

My question is do you just drop in the quickie chamber into place or is it suppose to be glued in. I was looking online and it was descriped as wet pack Quickie chamber. I am looking for something to just be dropped in place with no glue or difficult procedures. Also can you get fire brick easily, like HD store.

Any help would be appreciated, Thanks

 

Quickie chambers do not get glued or backfilled. The do just set in place. They may need banded (included) if they need to be cut to get them in. There are also wet packs which get un-rolled and the burner opening cut. They are only good for a few years. The quickie is good for 10+ years if properly installed and sized.

 

Thanks, the quickie is what I need then.

 

I just called patriot supply and not sure of the answer I got.

The lynn 200 quickie chamber would fit better in my boiler than the 100 if I could spin it one rotation. I was told I can spin the lynn 200 but the flame should not hit the back wall. I then asked if I got the lynn 100 and did not rotate it, can the flame hit the back wall. I was told no.
So is that the general rule that the flame should not touch the back wall of the quickie chamber ever.
My nozzle size will work with both

Thanks in advance

 

If I remember correctly, that boiler had a stainless steel chamber. If I'm thinking of the right boiler, I've always used a wet pack & just lined the existing chamber.

If yours does not have the stainless chamber, I suggest using a chamber which will give you an inch or so on each side for removal of debris which falls into the chamber area when cleaning the boiler.

What burner is installed on the boiler & what is your firing rate?

 

hi,
Its an old cast iron American standard acroliner. I am going to be putting a newer model beckett burner on (2004 model). I called beckett today they recommended a 1.10 solid nozzle. Boiler tag reads 1.25 with tankless coil. I am not sure yet what is in the old burner now, as I did not check. I am going to post some more questions in the near future and I will attach some pictures in photobucket.

As always thank you.

 

If that boiler has the original burner, don't waste your time with the new chamber now. It would be like putting a new seat in your car if you really needed shocks.

Your burner is about 30 years post-obsolesence and can't burn clean no matter what you do with the combustrion chamber. You may have to play around a little with the beckett flange to get it to work with the bolt holes on your boiler but as long as you get an air tight fit, you will have better efficiency than you do now. Ultimately, you should get rid of the big old energy hog altogether. You could probably save enough topay off a new boiler in 3 or 4 years if oil stays at $3.75+ per gallon.

If your boiler was a gas boiler, it would have had a red tag put on it 10 years ago. Too many oil service companies think they are helping their customers by patching up ancient equipment just so it burns. When combustion efficiency drops below 75%, it should be mandatory to upgrade. Your boiler probably hasn't seen 75% for more than a month in 15 years.

I'm not trying to upset you but you may not know just how bad your system is without some objective criticism.

Ken

 

No offence taken. I apreciate all the help. I am not really expecting miracles. My hopes are to burn a little less oil with maybe a little cleaner burn. I am only planning on sinking a small amount of money(less than $200) into my old hog. I would like it to last a few more years. I have to get a new roof and would like to update my windows first. My oil company does suggest a new boiler. They suggest a peerless for about $6000 to $7000 rough over the phone estimate. Efficiency tests were 78% dropping to 76% about 2 years ago. I guess what you are saying is it is not that efficient all year round.



My Plan is to replace the beat up drop in chamber that is in there now. Put on a Beckett burner that I got for a good price. I am also making a new baffle. A few years back the service tech must have put in it wrong or left it in the chamber. Anyway it got all burnt up and bent. I was told I did not need it. I kind of doubt that now after reading a few posts. It might not be rational but I guess part of me respects a boiler that can last 50+ yrs.

 

If that boiler also is responsible for producing your domestic hot water, you better look around before you install something just like you have now. An indirect water heater and a low mass boiler will save you 100-150 gallons of oil in the spring-summer-fall. You don't need to keep 12 gallons of water in a boiler that loses heat fast at 160 degrees 24/7 just in case you decide to wash your hands. Especially not when oil is $3.75/gallon.

Ken

 

Yes, boiler also is responsible for producing my domestic hot water. I would like to continue getting some estimates just in case I have to replace before I am ready. What low mass boiler do you recommend looking into.
Thanks Mike

 

Depends if you are staying oil or have a gas option.

 

I would be looking at oil bioilers.