Beckett AE burner - keep or replace?
#1
05-12-08, 10:36 AM
Beckett AE burner - keep or replace?
My boiler is serviced every year, and records show it's efficiency test results are 84-85% each year.
The burner is a Beckett Model AE... I have not been able to find anything out about this model burner.... I'm mainly wondering if it is in fact a flame-retention burner.
If not, it would make sense to replace it with a new burner, correct?
The burner is a Beckett Model AE... I have not been able to find anything out about this model burner.... I'm mainly wondering if it is in fact a flame-retention burner.
If not, it would make sense to replace it with a new burner, correct?
#2
05-12-08, 11:23 AM
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I am not familiar with an Beckett AE burner, I usually see Beckett AF & AFG burners. But I suspect it is a flame retention burner.
Also, an efficiency rating of 84-84% is excellent for conventional oil heating systems. To get any better than that you would have to change your complete heating system. And so far I have only seen 1 brand with a high efficiency condensing boiler.
Your efficiency is combined with both the burner and the heating appliance.
Also, an efficiency rating of 84-84% is excellent for conventional oil heating systems. To get any better than that you would have to change your complete heating system. And so far I have only seen 1 brand with a high efficiency condensing boiler.
Your efficiency is combined with both the burner and the heating appliance.
#5
05-13-08, 03:31 PM
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Hi,
Let's start with the efficiency rating you are getting is excellent. I would not change a thing.
I would love to see a picture of where you are getting that Beckett burner model number from, because I have looked through Beckett's web site twice now with multiple searches and have come up with nothing. I have also been in the trade since 1993 and have never heard anyone talk of that burner. I have also cleaned hundreds or burners and have never seen a Beckett AE burner. What brand appliance is it installed in?
You have my curiosity peaked and I am trying to find if they ever made that model.
Let's start with the efficiency rating you are getting is excellent. I would not change a thing.
I would love to see a picture of where you are getting that Beckett burner model number from, because I have looked through Beckett's web site twice now with multiple searches and have come up with nothing. I have also been in the trade since 1993 and have never heard anyone talk of that burner. I have also cleaned hundreds or burners and have never seen a Beckett AE burner. What brand appliance is it installed in?
You have my curiosity peaked and I am trying to find if they ever made that model.
#7
05-13-08, 04:38 PM
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OK, now we are getting somewhere
In the top picture it shows it is a model A,AF. If they ever made just a plain "A" model I cannot find it so I am going to say you have an AF burner. It is flame retension, but one of the older styles. With the efficiency you claim to be getting, I would not worry about a thing.
In the top picture it shows it is a model A,AF. If they ever made just a plain "A" model I cannot find it so I am going to say you have an AF burner. It is flame retension, but one of the older styles. With the efficiency you claim to be getting, I would not worry about a thing.
#10
05-14-08, 06:14 PM
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As I said earlier, your efficiency is not just determined by the burner. It is also the heating appliance that helps to determine the heating efficiency. I don't think you will do much better than what you have now.
#11
05-14-08, 06:25 PM
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Beckett NX
You MIGHT pick up a very little bit of efficiency but the cost of the burner (if available for retro-fit) along with the cost of professional installation would be more than you would ever recover in increased efficiency. If you are really interested in efficiency, you would be better off replacing the boiler.
#12
05-14-08, 11:20 PM
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#13
05-15-08, 07:16 AM
The combustion efficiency of 84-85% is decent. The only way to get it higher would be to go with a condensing boiler. They run in such as way that the flue gases are cooler. This increases the volume of heat extracted from the burner.
For better overall efficiency look into an outdoor reset (ODR) or a control such as the Beckett HeatManager. These devices reduce the water temperature in the boiler when not as much heat is required. This makes a big difference during the cool, but not cold seasons. Which is most of the time.
Al.
For better overall efficiency look into an outdoor reset (ODR) or a control such as the Beckett HeatManager. These devices reduce the water temperature in the boiler when not as much heat is required. This makes a big difference during the cool, but not cold seasons. Which is most of the time.
Al.
#14
05-25-08, 05:46 AM
My system runs
up to 140 degrees tops before shutting down... I have 2-1/2" main supply and return lines, feeding a total of 9 cast iron radiators (2-story house).
From what I've read, the HeatManager or similar controls with ODR provide the most benefit on large volume systems which run up to 180 degrees.
So would the HM really provide much benefit for me?
From what I've read, the HeatManager or similar controls with ODR provide the most benefit on large volume systems which run up to 180 degrees.
So would the HM really provide much benefit for me?
#15
05-26-08, 09:43 AM
With a max water temperature of 140, they probably won't save much. You could go as low as 120 on the return side. The lowest usable boiler temperature would depend upon the return side temperature.
Does the house maintain temperature even on the coldest days?
Al.
Does the house maintain temperature even on the coldest days?
Al.
#16
05-27-08, 02:19 PM
Oh yeah... easily
When I first bought the house 11 years ago, I recall several times I had to have the tank refilled twice in one month.
Now, after installing hi-perf windows, an attic blanket, new storm doors and weatherstripping (I also insulated the ceiling of the basement so no heat will travel downward) I only had 3 fillups (just under 600 gallons total) this past year.
One other thing I did was change the setback of the thermostat to only set back 3 degrees (67 to 64). This seems to smooth it out a lot...
Worst case it it'll run 50-60 minutes max, on the coldest days. And that's when recovering in the morning. Once up to temp, it might come on once every few hours for 15-25 minutes.
I'm wondering if going with a fixed setpoint (no setback) and kicking the pump on as the "1st stage" of heating (with the boiler itself being the "2nd stage" might be a good idea.
Now, after installing hi-perf windows, an attic blanket, new storm doors and weatherstripping (I also insulated the ceiling of the basement so no heat will travel downward) I only had 3 fillups (just under 600 gallons total) this past year.
One other thing I did was change the setback of the thermostat to only set back 3 degrees (67 to 64). This seems to smooth it out a lot...
Worst case it it'll run 50-60 minutes max, on the coldest days. And that's when recovering in the morning. Once up to temp, it might come on once every few hours for 15-25 minutes.
I'm wondering if going with a fixed setpoint (no setback) and kicking the pump on as the "1st stage" of heating (with the boiler itself being the "2nd stage" might be a good idea.
