Beckett AFG burner blast tube options
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Beckett AFG burner blast tube options
I am replacing the problematic Weil QB-180 burner on my Weil McLain WTGO-3 boiler with a Beckett AFG that has the cleancut pump and genisys primary. The old burner goes through electrodes quickly and is has an internal leak somewhere and goes out once a winter for the last 6 years.
There are 2 blast tube options, the L1 head (AFG50MB) or the F3 head (AF53XN). I think the L1 is a newer one and maybe more efficient. The F3 is more common and still in production. Any suggestions on whether to go with the L1 or the F3? They require a different nozzle...a 45deg vs. a 70deg. I am currently running a .65gph on the QB-180 (works well when it is working) with the pump at 150psi and am thinking of going .75 and 140 on the new setup.
There are 2 blast tube options, the L1 head (AFG50MB) or the F3 head (AF53XN). I think the L1 is a newer one and maybe more efficient. The F3 is more common and still in production. Any suggestions on whether to go with the L1 or the F3? They require a different nozzle...a 45deg vs. a 70deg. I am currently running a .65gph on the QB-180 (works well when it is working) with the pump at 150psi and am thinking of going .75 and 140 on the new setup.
#3
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
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Air Tube
Generally the L1 head with the AFG50MBAS air tube combination burns much cleaner than does the F3 head with it's suggested air tube combo. What is the number of the burner chassis? The factory nozzle is a .85x45º 'B' Delavan with a Hago as the second choice. If you are currently firing a .65 nozzle @ 150#, I see no reason to go to a .75 @ 140# provided the boiler gives you enough heat & hot water AND the stack temperature is high enough to prevent condensation in the chimney.
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
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Burner set up & testing
I just looked up the initial set up specs for a similar boiler. It uses the same air tube combo as you will be using. Firing a .65 x 45º nozzle @ 140 psi pump pressure, they suggest starting with the air shutter at "6" & the air band on "0". These are just starting settings. Final adjustments need to be made based upon the results of combustion analysis. If you don't have the instruments to perform such analysis, you should call a local service company to do it & make the final adjustments. Failure to test can result in a dangerous condition.