Boiler will fire without TH


  #41  
Old 09-28-08, 01:13 PM
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Does the low voltage mean that the auastat will not have enough power to operate the draft inducer on the boiler?
 
  #42  
Old 09-28-08, 01:29 PM
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Yes, the A model is 120 VAC LINE VOLTAGE on the output B1 and B2, while the B model is 24 VAC through the small internal transformer and it absolutely will NOT power the draft inducer. Further, if you try to use it, you may destroy either the aquastat or the inducer or both.

Just don't do it...
 
  #43  
Old 09-28-08, 01:44 PM
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This is just the kind of luck that I have anymore. I was just trying to avoid spending $135.00 on a new one if I didnít have to. I really appreciate all of the help. Thanks again.
 
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Old 09-28-08, 01:57 PM
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I don't blame ya a bit ...

Unfortunately, in the interest of reliability, the new one is yer best bet I think.

HOWEVER... we still don't have a clear understanding of why it was firing all by itself previous to the 'not firing' episode. I'm concerned that the original problem could have been caused by either the thermostat, or the wiring to/from it.

There may be a simple repair that will get your existing a'stat working properly again... can you solder ? If so, and you wish to take it apart again, and take a HIGH RESOLUTION, LARGE picture of the back of the PC board, I may be able to spot the trouble. Your camera must have a MACRO setting in order to take these pics. They must be crystal clear.

You also need to be absolutely certain that the original problem was NOT in the t'stat or wiring ... did the unit EVER fire up by itself when the t'stat wires were removed from T T on the aquastat ?
 
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Old 09-28-08, 02:13 PM
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Talking

Yes the unit did fire without the T/T connected at all. I appreciate the help but my wife has used up all of her patience with me and I have placed the order for a new one. It just may be the cheapest way yet.

Originally Posted by NJ Trooper View Post
I don't blame ya a bit ...

Unfortunately, in the interest of reliability, the new one is yer best bet I think.

HOWEVER... we still don't have a clear understanding of why it was firing all by itself previous to the 'not firing' episode. I'm concerned that the original problem could have been caused by either the thermostat, or the wiring to/from it.

There may be a simple repair that will get your existing a'stat working properly again... can you solder ? If so, and you wish to take it apart again, and take a HIGH RESOLUTION, LARGE picture of the back of the PC board, I may be able to spot the trouble. Your camera must have a MACRO setting in order to take these pics. They must be crystal clear.

You also need to be absolutely certain that the original problem was NOT in the t'stat or wiring ... did the unit EVER fire up by itself when the t'stat wires were removed from T T on the aquastat ?
 
  #46  
Old 10-02-08, 05:03 PM
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New aquastat and all is working great! Thanks to all for the help.
 
  #47  
Old 10-02-08, 05:31 PM
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New Aquastat

Glad all is working well. As much as we all hate it, sometimes ya just gotta bite the bullet & spend the cash for new parts.
 
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Old 02-26-09, 09:17 PM
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Pardon my ressurecting a dead thread, but I see to have developed a curious issue along the same lines at the rest of this thread.

I have a Buderus Logano G115 oil burning boiler. A Honeywell Aquastat Relay (type L8148A) controls it.

Late last night, I ran out of fuel oil. I got the tank filled today, and after much adeiu, finally got the boiler primed and firing. Ok, so good, right? Not so fast.

I noticed tonight that one of my zones in the house was not getting warm. Then noticed it was the same across the board. I went to the boiler, and hit the red button to start a cycle. I NEVER have to do this.

Temp buils in the storage and heating water areas. But I'm looking at this and wondering why the darn thing didn't detect low water temps and kick on? It is supposed to maintain a low point, to tell the boiler when to heat, right?
 
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Old 02-27-09, 02:49 PM
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L8148a

The L8148A aquastat will not maintain the boiler temperature. It is what is refered to as a "cold start" aquastat which means if there is no call for heat it would allow the boiler to cool completely.

Your having to push the reset button is likely a direct result of running out of fuel. You probably need to change the nozzle, fuel filter, & pump screen as well as flush the fuel system.
 
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Old 02-28-09, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Grady View Post
The L8148A aquastat will not maintain the boiler temperature. It is what is refered to as a "cold start" aquastat which means if there is no call for heat it would allow the boiler to cool completely.

Your having to push the reset button is likely a direct result of running out of fuel. You probably need to change the nozzle, fuel filter, & pump screen as well as flush the fuel system.
Here is the weird part. The boiler is doing fine at maintaining temp through the day, but at night, when the thermostats roll back to night set temps, the boiler does not maintain hot water. The 2 nights since I had to refuel, both nights, at about midnight, I had to restart the boiler (reset button), but then it functions normally until the following night.... Really confusing.
 
  #51  
Old 02-28-09, 09:14 AM
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Night problem

I would still suggest the previously mentioned fuel system/burner servicing. Often if a nozzle is partially fouled it causes a poor spray pattern. If the boiler is warm the oil vaporizes easier & often will ignite. Once the boiler cools such as during an overnight setback, the fuel is more difficult to light.
 
  #52  
Old 02-28-09, 10:26 PM
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Ok. I'm going to replace the fuel filter this week.

I also wonder, if the air was not fully purged from the fuel lines, whould that cause any of these issues?
 
  #53  
Old 03-01-09, 06:09 AM
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Air

If it is a single line from the tank to the burner & was air bound, no amount of resetting would get it to fire without bleeding the air.
 
 

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