Boiler circulating but no heat

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Old 09-26-08, 08:31 AM
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Boiler circulating but no heat

We just but this house a couple of months ago and it has a Dunkirk water boiler that is only about 20 years old. We have natural gas. When we had some repair work done as per the mortgage company's demands. We had the circulating pump replaced. When it was time for inspection everything worked. Now it is starting to get colder and we wanted to test it again rather than wait until it is really cold. The system circulates water but nothing else happens. Just cold water circulating through the lines. We have tried bleeding the lines but that hasn't helped. If you have any ideas to help us figure this out we would appreciate it. We have never had a boiler system before and can use the help.
 
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Old 09-26-08, 06:08 PM
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No heat

Is the gas turned on? There should be a valve in the gas line near the boiler.

Also check the gas valve on the boiler itself.
Is there a pilot or is the boiler electronic ignition?

A model number might help.
 
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Old 09-26-08, 06:46 PM
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check the emergency switch away from the boiler top of the stairs......toggle at the boiler circuit breaker for the boiler.cycle the limit switch inside the panel access for the boiler controls..if the circulator is running the stat is calling all power should be there.the system works the stat calls for heat then the circulator starts to cycle the cooler water around the baseboard the limit switch senses the cooler water entering the boiler and the burner kicks in.when your running the heating from the stat setting the limit within the boiler will cycle the gas off when the boiler tank meets the setting on the limit...ae you getting a spark for pilot or is it lit as a stand alone(no spark)if it is stand alone put the gas valve to pilot push it down,hold it and light the pilot after 20-30 seconds let the stem go,and it will pop up/rise.the pilot should stay lit...turn the stem to ON the burner should light
 
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Old 09-28-08, 08:52 AM
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More info

The boiler has an electronic ingniton pilot light. All there seems to be is a switch for on and off. Nothing to push in. The gas is on also. The model# is xe4 series #2 serial # 228800118. Your help is greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 09-28-08, 10:21 AM
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Electronic Igniton

Unless there is a switch near the boiler you will need to have someone turn up the t-stat while you watch & listen for the ignition sequence.

Do you hear a spark? Does it light a pilot? What happens next? Please provide any numbers you can find on the igniton control.
 
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Old 09-28-08, 03:05 PM
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We did do that and it doesn't prime,spark, or light. The water just circulates. Not sure where the ingintion control is. ???
 
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Old 09-28-08, 07:20 PM
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Pictures

Pics would be a big help. You can post them on photobucket.com or similar photo hosting site & provide a link here.
 
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Old 10-06-08, 07:20 PM
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we have heat again... but...

OK we have heat again, it really was stupid. But now that I have fixed that, I have a new question... This is a 3 zone system. The third zone the valve does not open to let the hot water go through when I turn the thermostat on. I have to move the switch on that zone by hand and then have to run another zone in order to get the heat to go through there. Does this mean I need a new thermostat for zone 3 or do I need a new valve in the line in the basement for zone 3? Or???? Thanks again....
 
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Old 10-06-08, 09:12 PM
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You gonna tell us what it was ? or keep us old turkeys in suspense ? We won't laugh, promise!

What make/model zone valves do you have ?
 
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Old 10-07-08, 04:54 PM
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Zone Valves

Are all zone valves powered from the same source?

Still waiting for those pictures. They really do help.
 
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Old 10-26-11, 05:20 PM
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Need new help

OK, so the boiler has worked fine for the last couple of years and now when it fires up the burners work for a few minutes then shut off and come right back on... It keeps doing this they won't just stay on... So, I called someone the other day and they told me it was the flame sensor. Either clean it or replace it. Problem is, we don't see anything like that on our unit... It has an intermittent pilot. Not a standing pilot. It sparks to light it. Any ideas? I have searched the net for a manual or diagram but haven't turned up anything....
 

Last edited by newhomeowner6; 10-26-11 at 05:55 PM.
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Old 10-26-11, 06:53 PM
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There is probably a small porcelain insulated rod with a single wire which sticks into the pilot flame. If you can find it, remove & clean with a scotch brite pad then reinstall.
 
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Old 10-27-11, 02:35 PM
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Ok he pulled out the pilot light set up and cleaned and replaced it. The first time we started it, it worked better but then when we tried a 2nd time it started doing it again. Could it possibly be that this could just need replaced?
 
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Old 10-27-11, 03:21 PM
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Can you get us some numbers of the ignition control & gas valve?
 
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Old 10-27-11, 07:49 PM
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Ok called Dunkirk this afternoon and spoke with a rep. He told me that the flame sensor is located within the pilot light setup... All in one... He also told me that this boiler is old and gave me a current part # to replace this all in one pilot/sensor assembly. It is Part #14662092 The rep also mentioned that the fact that the burner lights and goes back out would be that the sensor is failing. The only one problem he mentioned is finding a distributor that sells to the public and not just contractors. So tom I am going to call around and see if I can find the part.
 
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Old 10-27-11, 08:08 PM
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Try this:

Patriot Supply - 146-62-092

Looks like that same part is used in several brands... one of Grady's favorites too, the Crown Aruba uses it in some models, along with Dunkirk, and of course Carrier. I'm betting a bit of research might turn up a Honeywell number for the same part.

Here is what I believe the Honeywell number is:

Q3451B2010

I'm 99.99% sure this is a correct cross, but doubtful you will find any info on that exact model number. When companies buy from Honey, they sometimes have proprietary agreements with them and you won't be able to get anything from them.

That said, this PDF has all the info you need on that particular assembly:

http://customer.honeywell.com/TechLi...0s/68-0094.pdf
 

Last edited by NJT; 10-27-11 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 10-27-11, 08:39 PM
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The only times I've seen a sensor fail were from a burnt or broken wire or a cracked porcelain. There are numerous other problems which would make one think the sensor is bad. Among these are a weak pilot flame, dirty flame rod, & bad ground.
 
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Old 10-27-11, 09:00 PM
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And the fact that this one seems very intermittent, I might go with the bad ground theory...

Check and clean all ground connections first!
 
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Old 11-04-11, 05:38 AM
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quick update

Just wanted to give you a quick update to let you know where we are at... Bought the new pilot assembly last week to find out it was the wrong one and was told we would have to wait til Monday to find out the right part... So... we tried cleaning it again and put it back in.... Fired the system up... Upon looking it over again husband decided to look at the fan/damper motor... It has always been on the loud side. When checking that out he discovered that the small damper plate at some point when it had closed had droped into the fan and had gotten bent. He unbent that and cleaned the motor up and when running the boiler works great! The only question is when you do a cold start (turn gas and elec back on and start) You have to nudge the fan blades to get the fan to turn on. After that it all works good still loud but works and even after the water gets to heat and the system shuts down it starts back up fine when it is time. Is that normal for a cold start? We were thinking about just replacing this fan motor. Thoughts?
 
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Old 11-04-11, 05:11 PM
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Called Dunkirk today and got the part # for the damper fan motor and online the part is $300 and locally $400.... So since the fan works is it possible to somehow "fix" it so that it is not loud? Lubricate it or something? Akso, when my husband was looking things over it seemed as though it was the damper plate that was causing our problem to begin with...
 
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Old 11-04-11, 05:13 PM
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I would replace the whole fan. It's probably off balance and would cause the new motor to wear out its bearings prematurely. You should not need to help your fan get started by turning the blades.
 
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Old 11-04-11, 05:19 PM
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Also- some background on our house.... We bought it as a foreclosure and it sat through 2 cold empty NY winters... and just curious how would the fan get out of balance? From the damper plate dropping in? We did notice that it seems as if there should be some type of pin that this damper plate should rest on when it is closed but there is nothing there... Are we right?
 
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Old 11-07-11, 07:57 PM
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Ok, so we called dunkirk again and got a part # for the comb blower motor it is 433-00-510. The motor we have right now is an AO Smith. When we look it up online we find one at Sears for $299 and at a local supplier for 403.00. I was wondering if there would be any cross referencing #'s for this part. Trying to find the best deal I can. Would love to not have to spend $300 plus shipping. Thanks for any help you can offer.
 
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