Help with replacing combustion chamber
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: New England
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Help with replacing combustion chamber
Hi Everyone ~
I have an 11 year old Weil McClain oil burner PWGO-3. Service guy just came out, said there was lots of soot and when he looked through the hole of the door, said he could see pieces of the combustion chamber.
He got it running, 83% efficiency, but said the combustion chamber needs to be replaced at a total cost of $400- $500.
How difficult would this be to do on my own? I believe I located the kit online at simplyplumbing for about $65 (part #386-700-355) but I don't know how confident I am in installing this thing. (I am a car guy mostly; thermostats, brake jobs, tune ups, etc - I would call myself low level intermediate in terms of being handy.)
It is a matter of opening the main door, unscrewing a few bolts and replacing the part?
Any thoughts are appreciated. I don't want to drop $500 unless I absolutely have to! (alternatively, if anyone can suggest someone in the eastern MA area, that would be great too)
Thanks,
Steve The Bluesman
I have an 11 year old Weil McClain oil burner PWGO-3. Service guy just came out, said there was lots of soot and when he looked through the hole of the door, said he could see pieces of the combustion chamber.
He got it running, 83% efficiency, but said the combustion chamber needs to be replaced at a total cost of $400- $500.
How difficult would this be to do on my own? I believe I located the kit online at simplyplumbing for about $65 (part #386-700-355) but I don't know how confident I am in installing this thing. (I am a car guy mostly; thermostats, brake jobs, tune ups, etc - I would call myself low level intermediate in terms of being handy.)
It is a matter of opening the main door, unscrewing a few bolts and replacing the part?
Any thoughts are appreciated. I don't want to drop $500 unless I absolutely have to! (alternatively, if anyone can suggest someone in the eastern MA area, that would be great too)
Thanks,
Steve The Bluesman
#2
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 12,667
Received 39 Upvotes
on
37 Posts
Chamber Replacement
Generally this is an easy job. The only problem is sometimes bolts will wring off. Rarely, but it does happen.
Soak the bolts with your favorite penetrating oil & let sit 1/2 hr or so (I like PB Blaster).
Remove the burner (3 studs w/nuts).
Remove the front door (4 studs w/nuts).
Remove the old chamber (wear a dust mask at a minimum) & place in a plastic bag.
Use a wire brush to clean off as much rust as possible (keep a shop vac running with the hose in the chamber while brushing).
Follow the kit instructions for installing the new chamber which is probably not actually a chamber but a target wall & blanket.
Soak the bolts with your favorite penetrating oil & let sit 1/2 hr or so (I like PB Blaster).
Remove the burner (3 studs w/nuts).
Remove the front door (4 studs w/nuts).
Remove the old chamber (wear a dust mask at a minimum) & place in a plastic bag.
Use a wire brush to clean off as much rust as possible (keep a shop vac running with the hose in the chamber while brushing).
Follow the kit instructions for installing the new chamber which is probably not actually a chamber but a target wall & blanket.
#3
PB Blaster is nothing but the best rust breaking stuff I've found.
It smells bad, so you know it's gotta be good!
Let it sit for the 1/2 hour as Grady suggests, then break the nut loose and 'wiggle' it back and forth to loosen it up where it sits, don't try to take it off just yet. Another drop of PB, another wiggle, and if it feels free start backing it off. If you encounter any resistance, STOP! and wiggle back and forth some more until it feels free again. Perhaps screw the nut back down, and wipe the stud down with a rag to remove the rust particles that have loosened up in the threads. Maybe another drop of PB. Continue this way until you can back the nut off all the way. Take your time and don't get frustrated at the time it may take to get a rusty bolt undone. The time will be well spent in not having broken anything.
The warning labels on ceramic refractory material classify FIRED parts as a carcinogen. DON'T BREATHE THAT STUFF!
It smells bad, so you know it's gotta be good!
Let it sit for the 1/2 hour as Grady suggests, then break the nut loose and 'wiggle' it back and forth to loosen it up where it sits, don't try to take it off just yet. Another drop of PB, another wiggle, and if it feels free start backing it off. If you encounter any resistance, STOP! and wiggle back and forth some more until it feels free again. Perhaps screw the nut back down, and wipe the stud down with a rag to remove the rust particles that have loosened up in the threads. Maybe another drop of PB. Continue this way until you can back the nut off all the way. Take your time and don't get frustrated at the time it may take to get a rusty bolt undone. The time will be well spent in not having broken anything.
The warning labels on ceramic refractory material classify FIRED parts as a carcinogen. DON'T BREATHE THAT STUFF!
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: New England
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Ok, sounds easy enough to do...I think I will take it apart 1st to see what I am looking at, then order the part when I am comfortable I can get it done.
And thanks for the replies. $500?!?! Screw that!
I am sure I am going to have more ???, but I already greatly appreciate this place.
Thanks,
Steve The Bluesman
And thanks for the replies. $500?!?! Screw that!
I am sure I am going to have more ???, but I already greatly appreciate this place.
Thanks,
Steve The Bluesman