Help me get my boiler running!!! Think its an aquastat issue

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Old 10-22-08, 07:40 PM
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Help me get my boiler running!!! Think its an aquastat issue

Hello everyone,

First off. Thank you for taking the time to look up my question..

My boiler doesnt seem to want to turn on this year. If I remember correctly last year had an issue too but seemed to start working.. think it might have been the same issue..

Ok. so turn up my thermostat, activates and opens the zone valve.. then nothing happens.. If i take the cover off of the aquastat L8148E ( not sure about the rest of the numbers i have seen others post.. this is all mine says) and if I press the little relay down the circulation pump fires up, and so does the boiler burner.. if i let off the rely.. all goes off. Pretty sure the aquastat relay is bad but i thought i would check to see if there is any other wiring or anything I can check first before droping the big bucks on this unit.. also which one would i have to buy since i do not know anymore of a model number other than honeywell Aquastat L8148E

Thank you for any thoughts or comments

Jarrod
 

Last edited by Black71gp; 10-22-08 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 10-22-08, 08:46 PM
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Jarrod, it's more likely a problem with the zone valves or the associated wiring.

Do you own and know how to use a multimeter ?

Do ALL the zones act the same way ? NONE of them will fire the boiler ?

It could be as simple as a loose connection, or a broken wire.

Do a visual inspection of all the wiring from the zone valves to the aquastat.

rbeck read my mind! I came back to post what he said below... that's pretty scary that we're on the same wavelength! poor rbeck!
 

Last edited by NJT; 10-22-08 at 09:08 PM.
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Old 10-22-08, 09:04 PM
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quick check... is remove the wires from TV-T (where the zone valves are connected) and place a small jumper in their place. If all works well see Troopers post on wiring problems.
 
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Old 10-23-08, 05:06 AM
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Thank you yes I have DVOM, can check wiring..

Well when i tried the other day.. neither zone will fire.. just tried now and the 2nd floor will fire on or off whatever I set it too.. wonder if i just didnt turn it up enough.. seems like wiring for sure now.. on the 1st floor zone valve.. I will look at troopers thread and see what i can figure out thanks
 
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Old 10-23-08, 11:13 AM
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cant seem to find troppers thread.. was looking or searching for threads by him and didnt see it.. do you have a link to it please.. thank you

jarrod
 
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Old 10-23-08, 04:42 PM
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jarrod, rbeck was referring to my post immediately ahead of his.

First, what kind of zone valves do you have ?
 
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Old 10-23-08, 05:15 PM
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oh sorry saw there was a "trooper" in the member list too..lol.. zone valves are.... v8043e1012 honeywell
 
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Old 10-23-08, 07:13 PM
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oh.. the zone valve does open when activated by the thermostat just doenst click on the boiler relay... thanks

jarrod
 
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Old 10-23-08, 08:49 PM
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Here's a PDF file that will tell you all about your zone valves.

V8043 zone valve install and maintenance info

The motor in the valve is probably OK then, if it's opening. The problem is with the 'end switch'.

You can verify this by setting your meter for AC VOLTS on a scale appropriate for 24 VAC. Clip it on the T and TV terminals on the aquastat. With the boiler on, and neither zone calling for heat, you should see 24 VAC on the meter. Now, turn up the GOOD zone. You should see that 24 VAC go to ZERO when the boiler fires up. Turn that one back down, and turn up the bad zone. If the end switch is bad, you will see/hear the zone valve open, but the 24 VAC will NOT go away. This means that the switch inside the zone valve is not activating.

You can pick up a new power head and replace it without having to drain the system:

V8043E Power head
 
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Old 11-14-08, 06:02 PM
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Well suck.. finally got around to ordering that zone valve head.. changed it out.. same problem.. i really didnt have the extra $60 bucks lieing around.. i have gone through and re wired everything twice to make sure it works.. the valve opens but doesnt activate the relay.. however like i said the zone valve from upstairs works fine... I cant swap those out because the zone that works the powerhead does not come off without leaking water all over.... any other ideas??/
 
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Old 11-14-08, 07:20 PM
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End Switch

Remove the cover from the troublesome zone valve.
You should see two sets of wires, one set yellow & one set red(?).
One set will go the motor (yellow?). Follow the other pair. Remove the wire nuts & install a jumper between the two. The boiler should fire & the circulator should come on. If it does, the problem is in the end switch. If the boiler does not respond, the problem is in the wiring.
 
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Old 11-14-08, 08:09 PM
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I opened it up.. yellow wires go to the motor.. red to the end switch.. didnt see wire nuts on the red wires.. BUT on the end switch where each red wire enters the end switch.. if i jump those to wires together.. the boiler will fire up.. with both powerheads that i have.. so that is telling me I got a bad new zone valve powerhead.. the end switch is still bad right?
 
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Old 11-15-08, 09:35 AM
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so that is telling me I got a bad new zone valve powerhead.. the end switch is still bad right?
That's what it sounds like... unless something mechanical is preventing the movement to actuate the switch ... i.e. the valve itself isn't opening all the way ...

can you reach in there with something and operate the endswitch manually ?
 
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Old 11-15-08, 04:41 PM
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ya i can stick a screwdriver and jump the leads.. i dont see anything else i can really move..
 
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Old 11-15-08, 05:22 PM
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On the side of the little switch, opposite the contacts, is there a little button, or a lever ? When the valve opens, can you see if what's supposed to push that switch is pushing it ?
 
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Old 11-15-08, 05:25 PM
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i will have to look more and see
 
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Old 11-15-08, 05:31 PM
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man.. ya the lever was not hitting the end switch.. dang so i didnt really need to spend 60 bucks i am guessing.. so how can I adjust things so the lever will hit the switch? i dont think i can send it back.. will try though.. so maybe just some bending or something? thanks for any thoughts..
 
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Old 11-15-08, 05:49 PM
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Lever

With the thermostat having opened the valve, can you push on the lever & cause the circulator & boiler to come on?
 
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Old 11-15-08, 10:41 PM
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ya it opens the valve.. just not quite far enough. i give it a little push it opens up the rest of the way and everything kicks on
 
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Old 11-15-08, 11:00 PM
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So does it seem as if the valve body itself is a bit 'stiff' ?
 
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Old 11-15-08, 11:11 PM
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thats hard to tell.. guess i can take it apart tomorrow and see how easy it mvoes with a screwdriver or something..
 
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Old 11-15-08, 11:16 PM
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If it's the valve stem that's binding, you might be able to 'loosen' it a bit by manually operating it a bunch of times ... Might not help, but it's a heckuva lot easier than replacing the valve body...
 
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