Boiler Leaking Question
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Boiler Leaking Question
I noticed my boiler was leaking today. I took off what panels I could but still cant see much. It isnt leaking at the high pressure release valve on the side or any other spout on the sides. Looks like the leak is coming from the inside above the pilot light. By leak I mean its not pouring but it drips.
I took what panels I could off looked around but cant really see inside there. After that I turned it on and just let it run and it didnt leak while it ran for about 20-30 mins. It did seem to get up to 30psi and 200 degrees and shut down.
Then after a few minutes the drips started while cooling down.
The unit is a weil-Mclain from 2002. 50psi max. 2 story house with one continuous hot water pip through out the house, Single zone.
Any ideas on what my problem is,could parts be replaced to fix this?
I took what panels I could off looked around but cant really see inside there. After that I turned it on and just let it run and it didnt leak while it ran for about 20-30 mins. It did seem to get up to 30psi and 200 degrees and shut down.
Then after a few minutes the drips started while cooling down.
The unit is a weil-Mclain from 2002. 50psi max. 2 story house with one continuous hot water pip through out the house, Single zone.
Any ideas on what my problem is,could parts be replaced to fix this?
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50psi max
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If anyone could tell me what they think is going on with this boiler I would appreciate it. I tried to snap some pics to see if I can see what is going on. Im mainly wondering if this can be repaired or is this the end of it?
I was looking up prices and looks like it will cost me around 3k to replace it,I just cant do it at the moment. But it still seems to work fine,but it does drip and as you can see sometimes it collects a lot of water around,and other times it will dry up and you couldnt tell there is a problem. Im not sure what im looking at,maybe someone can point out the problem?
I was looking up prices and looks like it will cost me around 3k to replace it,I just cant do it at the moment. But it still seems to work fine,but it does drip and as you can see sometimes it collects a lot of water around,and other times it will dry up and you couldnt tell there is a problem. Im not sure what im looking at,maybe someone can point out the problem?
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If anyone could shed some light on what im looking at and if there is any possibility of fixing this? I first noticed it like this yesterday with water all around the unit,then I took off some panels to see if I can see anything,cant really see in there. Then it dried up and looked to be fine,then just a few hours ago I seen the water was back. I been using it all night ,seems everything works fine,just leaks from somewhere? I took a pic to see if it will help someone to tell what the problem is.
#7
Just a messenger here but that middle section looks cracked to me,six pins from the right.Maybe increase the pressure some with every thing off to see better.If cracked better to replace. Good luck.
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Looks like a crack to me, too. Depending on how far the crack extends it may be able to be cobbled for this winter. First thing to do would be to drill a small hole just beyond the crack on both ends. This will stop the crack from progressing. Then a very good welder MIGHT get lucky and be able to weld it using a high nickel contend electrode in short passes, peening the heck out of each pass to help relieve any stress.
A second method would be to drill holes, one at a time, and using a tap that has had the outer circumference reduced slightly tap the hole and screw in a mild steel bolt (cast iron bolts would be better but I have no idea where you would find them), and then cut/grind it not quite flush. The second hole will be drilled into the edge of the first so that the tap cuts into the bolt as well as the base metal. Continue in this interweaving pattern to the other end of the crack and then peen the bolts into the base metal. Absolutely NO guarantees either will work but what have you to lose? The accepted method is to replace.
A second method would be to drill holes, one at a time, and using a tap that has had the outer circumference reduced slightly tap the hole and screw in a mild steel bolt (cast iron bolts would be better but I have no idea where you would find them), and then cut/grind it not quite flush. The second hole will be drilled into the edge of the first so that the tap cuts into the bolt as well as the base metal. Continue in this interweaving pattern to the other end of the crack and then peen the bolts into the base metal. Absolutely NO guarantees either will work but what have you to lose? The accepted method is to replace.
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leaking boiler
Another option is Boiler Stop Leak , I have used it on a steel oil fired boiler, it ran for two years did not leak again but was changed to gas. The leak was more than a drip .
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I am willing to try that,Think it would work ok with my set up? I found this by just doing a quick search Hercules 1 qt. Boiler Liquid-30115 at The Home Depot
The other methods seem a bit out of my league,but this is more my speed
The other methods seem a bit out of my league,but this is more my speed
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As stated, check with the manufacturer to see if they will make any kind of deal on a warranty claim. If not, you have nothing to lose by trying a leak-stop compound. It WILL end up destroying any automatic air vents you have (relatively cheap) and it might destroy the circulating pump and mess up any zone valves but you need to get through the winter. Any boiler replacement you have done now the installer will have you by the neck. If there is any way to limp on through to late spring/summer the game changes considerably and then YOU are in the driver's seat concerning the installation of the new equipment.
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I finally tracked down some Hercules Boiler Liquid,lol this stuff must work it was sold out everywhere!
I will see if I can track down some info and make a call to see if any warranty is valid,I doubt it highly but it cant hurt to ask I guess.
If anyone has experience using this stuff if you could give me some instruction or tips I would appreciate it.
I will see if I can track down some info and make a call to see if any warranty is valid,I doubt it highly but it cant hurt to ask I guess.
If anyone has experience using this stuff if you could give me some instruction or tips I would appreciate it.
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I pretty sure I found the fill tube on top behind the gauge in the pic. But that thing isnt budging. I tried spraying down with liquid wrench stuff,heating it up with propane torch,even tapping on it like a jar of pickles,Nothing!
I was wondering if I can just remove the high pressure blow off valve on the side and pour in my stop leak there?
I was wondering if I can just remove the high pressure blow off valve on the side and pour in my stop leak there?
#16
I pretty sure I found the fill tube on top behind the gauge in the pic
I was wondering if I can just remove the high pressure blow off valve on the side and pour in my stop leak there?
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As long as you get the stuff into the boiler, either location will do. You will need to drain the boiler water down to a level that is below the point where you are adding the stop-leak.
If your boiler's piping has isolation (shut-off) valves on the supply and return lines, you should close them before opening the drain on the boiler.
In terms of what to do next, you should follow the directions that come with the product . I believe running the boiler nice and hot for an extended period is recommended.
P.S. Don't forget afterwards to open any isolation valves that you shut when you drained down the boiler.
If your boiler's piping has isolation (shut-off) valves on the supply and return lines, you should close them before opening the drain on the boiler.
In terms of what to do next, you should follow the directions that come with the product . I believe running the boiler nice and hot for an extended period is recommended.
P.S. Don't forget afterwards to open any isolation valves that you shut when you drained down the boiler.