Zone Valve Wiring

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Old 12-06-08, 09:57 AM
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Zone Valve Wiring

I have a three zone heating system with Honeywell valves
(8043E1012).

Two of the zones work well. Recently, the third zone (Z3) didn't seem to be working. I replaced the thermostat, but there was no change. I then replaced the zone valve itself.

When the thermostat is set, I can see that the connection is made in the valve, but the furnace does not ignite.

When I installed the valve, I did a wire by wire replacement, so I don't think that's the problem. I checked with one of the postings on the site and it looks like I did it correctly. Here is the current setup.

Yellow wire from each valve to separate white thermostat wire

2nd yellow for each valve tied together with white wire from transformer.

The red wire from transformer and the red wires from each thermostat tied together.

One red wire from each valve tied to white circulator wire

2nd red wire from each valve tied to red circulator wire

Again, the other two zones work well.

Interestingly, when I first installed the new valve I inadvertently connected one of the yellow wires from the second valve to the yellow wire and white thermostat wire for the new valve. Of course, the second zone didn't heat, but the third one worked fine. Once I reconnected the second zone correctly, I no longer got heat in the third zone.

Is the wiring the problem, or should I be looking elsewhere?

Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Old 12-07-08, 03:24 PM
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Ice, sorry we seem to have missed this one...

I forget, do you have a multimeter ?

If one zone isn't firing the boiler, and the zone valve is opening, make sure the red wiring is correct (endswitches)... and check with the multimeter that the endswitch is actually 'making' when the valve opens.
 
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Old 12-10-08, 05:27 PM
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Sorry, I don't have a multimeter. I'll get one if it will help, though I'll probably never use it again.

Is there another test? The zone valve is brand new, so I would hope its not the endswitch that is the problem. That's why I replaced it in the first place.

Does it make any difference which red wire is attached to the other red wires in the configuration. It doesn't seem like it should make a difference, since there's not way to distinguish the two wires, but then again, this thing should be working according to the specs.

I hate to breakdown and bring in the heat guys, but so far this do it yourself thing isn't working too well.
 
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Old 12-10-08, 08:09 PM
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Sorry to hear yer gettin' discouraged Ice! Hang in there, it gets easier...

Let me make sure I know exactly where we're at.

Does each thermostat operate it's respective zone valve motor when it calls for heat?


At this point, two of the zone valves operate properly, and fire the boiler?


The third zone valve is the one you replaced, and that's the one that was not working before?


The zone that's not working is doing EXACTLY what it did before ... in other words, no change?


Triple check your wiring ...

In your first post, you said :

One red wire from each valve tied to white circulator wire

2nd red wire from each valve tied to red circulator wire
What do you mean by "circulator wire"? Are you referring to the two wires that go to the aquastat on the boiler T T terminals?

Can you take/post pictures? (photobucket)
 
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Old 12-10-08, 08:16 PM
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Does it make any difference which red wire is attached to the other red wires in the configuration.
No, there's no 'polarity'. Nor on the yellows.

I'm not sure I follow your description of your 'ooops' in the wiring. Please essplane a little more...
 
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Old 12-11-08, 05:43 PM
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A Further Explanation

Trooper --

Thanks for the reply.

What I call the circulator is the box on the boiler, I guess the real term is aquastat.

As far as my set up, you are correct. Two of the three zones operate as they should. The third zone valve I replaced is the one causing the problem. When I turn the thermostat on, I can see contact being made inside the valve box, so I assume the thermostat is working fine (also, there is no resistance if I move the little lever between manual and automatic) and I hear water moving. It's just that the furnace never fires in response to that thermostat and the heat never rises above 63

Now that you mention it, the problem is pretty much what I was experiencing before. The basement never gets super cold (it stays between 61 and 64), but I don't know if that's because the weather hasn't been too bad or the water that is circulating is keeping it at that level.

You mentioned a multimeter before, if I get a hold of one what should the levels be on the end switch wires?

I have traced all the wires and they match what I set down the other day
3 reds from thermostats and the transformer are joined,
3 reds from the valves are joined with white aquastat wire and 3 reds are joined with the red aquastat wire).

Your comments are appreciated.
 
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Old 12-11-08, 07:03 PM
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We have ignition

Trooper -

I got to thinking about your comment that the problem really wasn't solved by the new valve and to check wiring.

I went back to both sets of the red wire connections, took them apart and put them back together again. On one of them I discovered that the aquastat wire wasn't stripped very far. I stripped it a bit further, reconnected everything, turned the thermostat up and VOILA - the furnace fired right up.

Thanks for your suggestions and comments.

 
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Old 12-11-08, 07:25 PM
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Wahl, if you got yer hands on a multimeter... maybe a friend has one you could borrow ... or better yet, borrow the friend who knows how to use it ! buy some beers and have a boiler party.

Before making any wire changes, turn off power to boiler and zone valves. After making any changes, tape or wire nut so that you don't accidentally short something out. Be well aware that there is lethal 120VAC power present at times. The 'management' isn't responsible if you get hurt.

I would use the OHMS function... disconnect the two red wires from zone 3 ... leave the others connected ... clip the leads across the two red wires from the valve, and push the thermostat up.

With the thermostat down, you should get no action on the meter... INFINITE ohms ... open circuit... no continuity.

With the t'stat calling for heat, and the zone valve open, you should get ZERO ohms ... closed (short) circuit ... continuity.

If you get these readings, it means that the ENDSWITCH in the zone valve is functioning properly.

IF the zone valve appears to be working correctly, THEN

At the point where the two red wires were connected... you carefully connect those two points together with a clip lead, the boiler should fire.

If it DOESN'T fire, the only thing it could be is a problem in the wiring between there and the boiler.

OR... if the zone valve is NOT working properly... take a look inside and see if you can find the 'microswitch' endswitch... see if you can actually SEE the lever thingy pushing that little button in. Maybe the valve isn't opening fully? Did you replace the head only? or the entire valve?
 
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Old 12-11-08, 07:30 PM
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Our electrons crossed in the ether...

GREAT! See dat, it gets bettah... told ya!
 
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