No heat on second floor

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Old 12-06-08, 02:59 PM
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No heat on second floor

Just got back from vacation at 1 am and had a burst pipe due to the cold weather. Cut the broken section out which was about 2 inches and replaced with one of those quick connect couplers. It only allowed for an inch..but the pipe had some leeway so i pulled it into the coupler and all was good. Now theres no heat on the second floor (which is really the attic of a cape)...all the pipes are hot except the one leading to the second floor. Pressure is around 18 on the boiler. Bled both bleeder valves and they had air at first, but now i get a stream of water. If i drain water through the left bleeder valve, i get hot water all the way up on the right side. I drained about 2 gallons and got hot water through all the baseboards upstairs. But it seems like the water isn't circulating. They were cold again this morning..so i repeated the process and got hot water throughout...but now its cold again. Any ideas? I would think the circulator is working since i get heat throughout the first floor.

We've always had issues getting heat to the second floor...but bleeding the pipes usually works.

http://s477.photobucket.com/albums/r...rrent=Heat.jpg
 
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Old 12-06-08, 05:49 PM
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Tommy, no zone valves, right?

Just one zone with two loops ...

Are there 'purge stations' near the boiler on each return pipe?

Can you take actual pictures? and puttem on photobucket?
 
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Old 12-07-08, 07:24 AM
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Old 12-07-08, 11:22 AM
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Tommy, you got a few things that need some attention there in addition to the no heat 2nd floor ... we'll get to them in a bit.

In the boiler1 pic, on the left side of the pic, there's a gold colored, bell shaped thingy coming from the domestic water to your RETURN pipe into the boiler. That thing is your feedwater regulator, pressure regulator, feed valve, etc ... that 'handle' on the top is a 'Fast Fill' lever. Raising that lever will feed water into the boiler at a fast rate, and will bypass the regulator.

Above that tee there is a valve with a screwdriver slot in it. The slot is vertical, meaning the valve is OPEN. When the slot is horizontal, the valve is CLOSED.

Above that is a hose drain valve.

That drain valve and slotted valve are together known as a 'Purge Station'.

Ideally, there should be a 'purge station' like that at EACH of the returns so that you can do them individually. I don't see that on your system, so you have to do both together. If there is a shutoff valve on the downstairs loop, closing that will force all the water through the upstairs loop... so if you can close another valve to force the upstairs to get all the water, do so.

Here's the idea, by closing that slotted valve, connecting a hose to the drain above it, opening the drain hose valve, and lifting the 'fast fill' lever, you will force the water through the boiler, up the supply pipe, through the zones, and out the drain. Using the fast fill allows a faster feed which should be fast enough to flush air out of the piping. Always let the boiler cool to 100F or less before doing this! Dumping a lot of cold water into a hot boiler is a quick way of cracking the cast iron.

The problems.

That leak on the front of the boiler that has caused you to cover the control with plastic must be repaired. If the gasket on that domestic hot water coil is leaking, it must be fixed before it can't be fixed .... might already be at that point.

In 'right' there's a ton of corrosion on them pipes, and that indicates that there's a leak there also. That should be repaired also. It's a slow leak, and you would probably be OK to let it slide until spring...
 
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Old 12-08-08, 05:18 PM
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Ah...still no heat. I believe the corrosion is from years ago. They've since been fix. We have a maintenance contract on the boiler so we're going to call them to stop by tomorrow to check everything out.
 
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