Problem: We live in a 22 year old two-story garrison style colonial in the suburbs outside of Boston. It's a nice size, about 2400 finished sq ft. plus a 1/2 finished basement. The heating plant is based on a Burnham V-34 oil-fired boiler feeding a three zone baseboard heat system (Basement, 1st Floor, 2nd Floor) with a fourth zone for domestic hot water. About three years ago we completely remodeled the house. At that time we added the external DHW (it was using the tankless system built-in to the V-34, but we were told it was not going to be able to fulfill our needs). So, we had the fourth zone put in to satisfy the DHW. The first winter after the remodeling we started having uneven heat issues. We were getting reasonable heat on the first floor except for the eating area that is on the farthest side of the floor from the furnace. Next, and even more severe is on the second floor, in particular the kids rooms which are adjoining on one end of the house (actually on side of house over the furnace) are noticeably/measurably colder by a good five degrees than the other side of the same floor. The contractor did put some kick-space heaters in line for the two bathrooms upstairs, and two in the first floor to heat the kitchen; but said that they would not have any effect on the remainder of the tube and fin based baseboards in the remainder of the house. The basement zone does not seem to have any problems, probably because it is a small zone (maybe 500 sq. ft.) and literally next to the furnace. So, our problem is uneven heat on both the first floor (especially on the left size) and second floor (especially on the right side), but predominantly the second floor. Now, I spent last night reading the incredibly insightful posts and help from NJ Trooper, Grady and others. What started to make sense, that I never knew/realized before was that in a heating plant like we have there is the part of the system that calls for heat (the thermostats) that cause the recirculators to come on. And, the part of the system that controls and tells the boiler that we need it to heat up more water for the system. I also learned a lot from this forum about what parts are responsible for those roles. With that new knowledge in hand I went about surveying and documenting my heating plant. What I found that could be part of the problem is that as much as I have four independent zones from a recirculator and thermostat perspective, I only have one zone that is actually informing the boiler that it has called for heat, that being the first floor zone which has the least of our problems. Now, what makes even more sense is that in the evenings, and day times when I work from home (in my second floor office), I can tell that water is circulating but I have to crank the thermostat to get the temperature in the other areas warm enough. We've had a couple of plumbers and furnace folks out here and nobody could figure it out. Someone came close and said that we should get a newer aquastat and multi zone relay; but at the time I had no idea what he was talking about. Now I do...sort of ;) My other concern/question is what other reasons might I be missing about the uneven temperatures in the zones of the house. For example, is it possible to have multiple heat sensors on one level that feed into one thermostat to try and equalize the temprature? etc. At the end of the email is the detailed description of our heating plant in the hopes that this may help you offer me suggestions on what I can do. I have also posted pictures of the system [URL="http://gallery.me.com/jordan.olin#100011&view=mosaic&bgcolor=black&sel=12"]here[/URL]: [url=http://gallery.me.com/jordan.olin#100011&view=mosaic&bgcolor=black&sel=12]MobileMe Gallery[/url] Thank you in advance for any and all qualified advice/suggestions. Regards to all, Jordan. System Inventory / Description: I use the following to define the four zones based on the placement of the recirculator pumps: Zone 1: Basement Zone 2: Second floor Zone 3: First floor Zone 4: DHW [FONT="Courier New"] Boiler: Burnham V-34 From Front Plate: DOE Steam Steam Water Lt Oil Htg Cap Sq Ft MBH MBH GBH ====== ===== ===== ===== ==== 177 553 132.8 153.9 1.55 194 606 145.5 168.7 1.70 Oil burner and ignition system: Beckett RWB No. AE-277075 Oil Burner Sid Harvey's SHN T-92 10/96 Ignition Transformer Interchangeable Primary 120V 60H 250VA Secondary 10000V 23MA Secondary MID TAP Honeywell R8184 G 1286 Intermittant Ignition Oil Primary T-T are strapped F-F Come from L8124G Aquastat Honeywell L8124G 1020 Triple Aquastat-Relay 120V 60Hz, 0.2A Thermostat Current Plus 360Va Ignition **** NOTE: Zone 3 (First floor) is the only thermostat that connects to the Aquastat-Relay Lo Temp Cutoff set to: 160 degrees Hi Temp Cutoff set to: 180 degrees Differential Temp set to: 10 degrees Zone controls, Relays, and Switches: Zone 1 (Basement) Definition: Recirculator: Taco Cartridge Circulator Model 007-F5 (HP 1/25, Amp. 0.71, RPM 3250, Max temp 240, Max PSI 125) Switching Relay: Honeywell RA832A 1066 Wiring: Flow: Thermostat -> Relay -> Cut-off -> Recirculator Digital thermostat in basement area to RA832A Honeywell RA832A: T - Basement Thermostat Red T - Basement Thermostat White X - Open X - Open 1 - White lead to recirculator 2 - Black lead to ??? (think it goes to cutoff switch 3 - Black lead to recirculator pump (Not sure of relationship between 2/3) 4 - Open Line switch: Cut-off between black leads (2/3) and recirculator Taco 007-F5 Black lead in from Cut-off White lead in from RA832A Zone 2 (Second Floor) Definition: Recirculator: Taco Cartridge Circulator Model 007-F5 (HP 1/25, Amp. 0.71, RPM 3250, Max temp 240, Max PSI 125) Switching Relay: Honeywell RA832A 1066 Wiring: Flow: Thermostat -> Relay -> Cut-off -> Recirculator Digital thermostat in second floor to RA832A Honeywell RA832A: T - 2nd Floor Thermostat Red T - 2nd Floor Thermostat White X - Open X - Open 1 - White lead to recirculator 2 - Black lead to ??? (think it goes to cutoff switch 3 - Black lead to recirculator pump (Not sure of relationship between 2/3) 4 - Open Line switch: Cut-off between black leads (2/3) and recirculator Taco 007-F5: Black lead in from Cut-off White lead in from RA832A Zone 3 (First floor) Definition: Recirculator: Bell & Goossett Booster Series #100 M48 S/N or Model #: 10689 Rated to at temp of 225 Switching Relay: Connects directly to the Honeywell L8124G Aquastat on the boiler Wiring: Flow: Thermostat -> Aquastat -> Cut-off -> Recirculator Digital thermostat in first floor to L8124G Aquastat Honeywell L8124G Triple Aquastat Relay T - First floor Thermostat Red Tv - First floor Thermostat White C1 - Out to cut-off switch on wall C2 - Out to B&G Recirculator - White B1 - Out to burner / Honeywell R8184 - Black B2 - Out to burner / Honeywell R8184 - White L1 - Two black power leads screwed in here, but looks like one is coming from the burner cut-off switch L2 - White lead coming in from the main power Line switches: First floor Recirculator Cut-off between C1 and recirculator black lead Burner Cut-off between L1 and main power B&G Recirculator Black lead in from Cut-off/L8124G C1 White lead in from L8124G C2 Honeywell R8184 F - Black from B1 F - White from B2 Zone 4 (Domestic Hot Water - DHW) Definition: Recirculator: Taco Cartridge Circulator Model 007-F5 (HP 1/25, Amp. 0.71, RPM 3250, Max temp 240, Max PSI 125) Switching Relay: Taco SR 501 Zone Switching Relay Thermostat: Honeywell 97-353A Current Setting: 125 degrees Tank: Superstore Wiring: Flow: Thermostat -> Relay -> Cut-off -> Recirculator Honeywell 97-353A thermostat connected directly to Superstor tank Taco SR 501: T - In from 97-353A Red T - In from 97-353A White N - Two white leads to recirculator H - Black lead #1 3 - Strapped to H / Black lead #1 4(NO) - Black lead #2 Line switch: Cut-off between black leads (H/4?) and recirculator Taco 007-F5: Black lead in from Cut-off White lead in from SR 501[/FONT]

Hi all, I am NEW to this forum and i need help. I have a Weil-McLain boiler (Naturgas). I am at work now and forgot to write down model Nr. But it is old and parts cannot be gotten. It seems to be an older model CGI Series 2 Furnace. Here my Problem... The Relieve Valve weeps frequently...actually every time my furnace comes on. The Pilot ignites and the pressure gage goes from 10 psi to 30-35 psi (after about 5-10 Min)...then the Reliefe Valve opens up slightly until furnace shuts down. Above the furnace is a SPARCO JT300-30.1 expansion tank. It has a tire valve at the bottom of the tank (covered by a black boot). At the Top of the sparco is a auto. air valve. looking at several manuals of furnaces ... they all say the same... the reliefe valve opening is most likely due to a waterlogged expansion tank?! Q: Is there a sureway of bleeding the waterlogged sparco? PS: When i press the tire valve at the bottom of sparco ... cold water comes out ! Any help appreciated. Or should I call a (expensive) Professional? Thanks all Steven