Bleeding Air from Hot Water Heating System
#1
12-23-08, 10:45 AM
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Bleeding Air from Hot Water Heating System
Hello,
I'm new to your community, but I hope you can help. I have a Burnham Series 2 boiler/ hot water heating system, there are no zones, just manual values to shut a zone off. I can hear water moving through the pipes, so there is significant air in the system. There are no bleeder valves on the baseboard like heater units. I've included a picture of the boiler setup, and a close up of the gauge/circulator. The gauge has water in the pressure side also, can I replace that or is that a professional job?
Picture album
Thank You for your time!
Mark
I'm new to your community, but I hope you can help. I have a Burnham Series 2 boiler/ hot water heating system, there are no zones, just manual values to shut a zone off. I can hear water moving through the pipes, so there is significant air in the system. There are no bleeder valves on the baseboard like heater units. I've included a picture of the boiler setup, and a close up of the gauge/circulator. The gauge has water in the pressure side also, can I replace that or is that a professional job?
Picture album
Thank You for your time!
Mark
Last edited by NJT; 12-24-08 at 01:20 AM. Reason: repaired picture link to album
#2
12-24-08, 01:31 AM
Yeah, that gauge looks like it's pooched ...
Replacing it depends on your skill level and how comfortable you feel about doing it ... you would need to drain some water from the system. If you aren't having problems with the pressure relief valve opening, it's probably safe to assume that it could wait until spring ...
On the other hand, you may not have ENOUGH pressure in the system, and that may be the reason (or one of the reasons) that you hear air in the system.
You can make something like this to use as a temporary pressure gauge... that's an old washing machine hose with junque boxe parts to fit the gauge.
Replacing it depends on your skill level and how comfortable you feel about doing it ... you would need to drain some water from the system. If you aren't having problems with the pressure relief valve opening, it's probably safe to assume that it could wait until spring ...
On the other hand, you may not have ENOUGH pressure in the system, and that may be the reason (or one of the reasons) that you hear air in the system.
You can make something like this to use as a temporary pressure gauge... that's an old washing machine hose with junque boxe parts to fit the gauge.
#3
12-27-08, 02:15 PM
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
NJ,
Thanks for the reply I'm going to make a gauge setup like you have there. Where do I apply this gauge, I assume I just put it before the pump, on the inlet side where the spigot is. Additionally, what should the pressure be in the system and when should I measure it, when its heating or when its off?
I presume I am having pressure problems now. I decided it might be a good idea to try the relief valve and was happy to see its working great. Unfortunately, I must have loosened it enough, so it leaks when the boiler temp is up there. I assume its a good indication that I have pressure issues. Can you clarify, that the pressure relief will go off when the pressure in the system is actually 'low'? (below ~12lbs?)
As a side note, these past couple of days I do not hear water moving anymore.... Also, is there a good book, or can you lay out what it takes to replace this gauge without messing with the rest of the system? Any suggestions on suppliers for that gauge?
Mark
Thanks for the reply I'm going to make a gauge setup like you have there. Where do I apply this gauge, I assume I just put it before the pump, on the inlet side where the spigot is. Additionally, what should the pressure be in the system and when should I measure it, when its heating or when its off?
I presume I am having pressure problems now. I decided it might be a good idea to try the relief valve and was happy to see its working great. Unfortunately, I must have loosened it enough, so it leaks when the boiler temp is up there. I assume its a good indication that I have pressure issues. Can you clarify, that the pressure relief will go off when the pressure in the system is actually 'low'? (below ~12lbs?)
As a side note, these past couple of days I do not hear water moving anymore.... Also, is there a good book, or can you lay out what it takes to replace this gauge without messing with the rest of the system? Any suggestions on suppliers for that gauge?
Mark
#4
12-27-08, 03:26 PM
Mark, you can put that gauge on any drain on the boiler water system, and get an 'accurate enough' idea of what the pressure is. I say 'accurate enough' because the pressure in the system will change with 'altitude'. If you put it up on the second floor, it will be much lower than around the boiler. But any drain around the boiler is good.
When the boiler is cold/cool ... say 100°F or less, the pressure should be around 12-15 PSI. When the boiler is HOT (i.e. 180°F) the pressure will be higher. How much higher depends on the amount of water in your system, the condition of the EXPANSION TANK, and the temperature that the water is heated to. It's 'usually' 5 - 8 maybe as much as 10 PSI higher than cold.
The pressure relief valve opens on HIGH pressure... most boilers it is a 30 PSI relief valve. When you open an old relief valve they often do not seat properly and continue to drip. One thing you can try is to pull it open all the way, then let go of the handle and let it 'slam' shut. If that doesn't work and it continues to drip at normal pressures (below 27 PSI), it will have to be replaced.
If I were you, I wouldn't mess with it now though... you will need to drain the system ... replace the gauge at the same time ... in the spring... for now, let's just get yer heat right, and deal with the other stuff when it's warm out.
When the boiler is cold/cool ... say 100°F or less, the pressure should be around 12-15 PSI. When the boiler is HOT (i.e. 180°F) the pressure will be higher. How much higher depends on the amount of water in your system, the condition of the EXPANSION TANK, and the temperature that the water is heated to. It's 'usually' 5 - 8 maybe as much as 10 PSI higher than cold.
The pressure relief valve opens on HIGH pressure... most boilers it is a 30 PSI relief valve. When you open an old relief valve they often do not seat properly and continue to drip. One thing you can try is to pull it open all the way, then let go of the handle and let it 'slam' shut. If that doesn't work and it continues to drip at normal pressures (below 27 PSI), it will have to be replaced.
If I were you, I wouldn't mess with it now though... you will need to drain the system ... replace the gauge at the same time ... in the spring... for now, let's just get yer heat right, and deal with the other stuff when it's warm out.
