Aquastat R8182D

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Old 12-29-08, 04:23 PM
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Aquastat R8182D

Hello, I am new to this forum and I need some help. Sorry for the long post.

I have a hot water boiler that is oil fired and is only used to run the boiler and circulator.
I came home to a cold house and the boiler won't fire. No ignition at all. Just the sound of clicking relays when i turn the power on. This happened about a year ago and I replaced the R8182D and it worked perfectly until now.
I checked the power at the B1 terminal as recco. on label. no power.

This is one expensive puppy to replace once a year.....

Do they go bad suddenly? after a year?

Do I need this expensive thing? This boiler had a white/rogers control that went bad a few years ago. and there were no cross over numbers. somehow, I ended up with this R8182D, and was told to disconnect the blue lead (i presume because I have no hot water system involved).
Help! and thanks.....

Ed
 
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Old 12-29-08, 07:37 PM
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Just to cover the bases, did you hit the reset button? Upper center of front of case. The control may be in lockout. If so, ONLY HIT it ONCE. If the burner starts but doesn't fire up, then there is an issue with the burner or oil delivery to it.

I checked on that control and see it is as you say, pricey. It is a combination triple-aquastat and oil burner primary control. And the 'triple' part isn't being used (blue wire disconnected).

If the R8182D control is bad I would go with a simple high limit aqua-stat, a relay box, and a separate oil burner primary. This would be such as a R7184 for the oil burner. A R8845 relay box. And a L4006A1678 aquastat. That particular aquastat is an open on rise with an adjustable differential.

Now, these three pieces cost almost as much as another R8182D combination unit. However, being that they are separate units not all the eggs are in one basket. So if one goes bad, only that piece requires replacement.

And that primary control (R7184) provides for interrupted ignition. And can also provide pre-purge with the addition of an oil valve. So this is actually an upgrade to the current R8182D unit.

Al.

{edit: double checked the prices on the above mentioned parts, the three individual controls happen to be a lot less $$$ then the one R8182D unit. }
 
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Old 12-29-08, 07:58 PM
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Hi Al, thanks for getting back to me. I did hit the reset, with no ignition. The cover on the unit gives a simple diagnostic routine, which checks 110 power to the unit, then with cad disconneted and thermostat set to "demand", power should be at the terminal that leads to ignition...there is not. it says then, either bad wiring (it ran for a year as wired), or bad aquastat. so i am convinced it is shot. Why, i will not understand...a year old? usually furnace controls like this last 20 years I would think.

Thanks for the suggestion on the three piece replacement. that makes sense that if a part goes bad, just replace the bad part.

I wonder if changing over to the three pieces would be something I can follow....I installed this aquastat and understand electrics etc. but not a pro by any means.

I dont know what interupted ignition, pre-purge, or open on rise means either.

your price analysis sure makes me want to try this job. Our local plumbing contractor wants $150/hr to show up.

thanks again for your help. and thank goodness for fireplaces!
Ed
 
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Old 12-30-08, 08:23 AM
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Only lasting a year isn't good. I agree that controls should be lasting a lot longer then that. On the Honeywell site is several pdf's of that control. They show that the burner relay is the one in the center of the control.

I would turn down the thermostat (no call for heat), then jumper the TT terminals while looking at that relay. Does it close when the TT terminals are jumpered. If not it may be that the transformer for the thermostat is bad. Should measure 24 V AC across the TT terminals (thermostat turned down).

If the relay moves then either the relay contacts are shot, or the internal wiring between it and the B terminal is bad, or the safety cutout relay is bad. This one is enclosed in the the plastic box of the reset button.


If you understand wiring and can mount control boxes and such, you shouldn't have any issues with doing the 3-piece setup.

Before going too much further, which burner is in the boiler? Can you post a picture or two of it and the boiler someplace? That is always helpful.

The 'open on rise' is what the aquastat contacts do on a change in temperature. As the boiiler water temperature increases the contacts will open. This cuts power to the burner to shut it off.

There are also aquastats that 'close on rise'. These are used to turn on circulators and such. Not the right one to control a burner.

Interrupted ignition: this is where once the flame has been established the igniton system of the burner is turned off. This reduces wear & tear on the system, reduces noise, and reduces electrical usage.

The opposite is intermittent ignition. This is where the ignition runs a long as the burner is running.

Pre-purge: this is where the burner is started but the supply of oil to the nozzle is held off. Then after a short delay (4 - 15 seconds) the oil is allowed to flow to the nozzle and the flame starts. The benefit of this is that the burner gets up to speed to provide a good flow of air. The oil pressure builds to the proper level. Then the oil valve is opened and the flame starts instantly.

This reduces sooting during startup. Since there is an oil valve to the nozzle that closes the instant the burner is shut off, it also reduces sooting during shut down.

To take advantage of a control that offers this an oil valve needs to be added to the burner. A control that offers this feature can still be used with no oil valve, which may be added later. After seeing the difference of adding pre-purge I wouldn't run a burner without it.

Al.
 
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Old 12-30-08, 09:47 AM
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Al,

I am at work today so I cant try out your possible solutions until early evening. I follow what you are saying and will test it out later then.
I also follow your explanations of the terms and how they operate in the system.
Thank you so much for your expertise and clear description of this system.
I will let you know what is going on after the tests and see if I can get some pics of the burner and boiler posted.

Ed
 
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Old 12-30-08, 11:42 AM
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I would just install an L7248C which is a high limit/circulator/burner control. You would have to add a burner primary as stated above. This is a lot easier to wire and still separates the burner control but the high limit and burner control is still in the same control. We have have good luck with this set-up.
 
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Old 12-30-08, 01:25 PM
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rbeck, is the 7248 still available? I thought it was replaced with the L7224U1002 ?
 
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Old 12-30-08, 06:08 PM
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Al, good evening (and burrr),

with thermostat turned down, jumping TT terminals has both center, and right relays making contact. With thermostat turned down, AC volts measures 20v across the TT terminals.

The reset button holds with both relays making contact but no power to b1 terminal. (i presume B1 is hot side, so putting my meter across b1 to ground should read power if it is there: yes?

does the 20v instead of 24v matter? I dont see a transformer in the boiler room.....is it internal to the aquastat setup?

the burner is a blue angel model HS.

thanks,

Ed
 
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Old 12-30-08, 06:25 PM
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Aquastat

With both relays pulled in you should get 120 between B1 & ground. Transformer is internal to the aquastat. Disconnect the thermostat wires, remove the jumper, & check across t-t again. Your reading is low but if it's enough to pull in the relay that's all that's needed.
 
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Old 12-30-08, 07:17 PM
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Al,

disconnect thermostat wires, no jumper. still reads 20volt AC.

with both relays pulled in, no power at B1.

if this means this aquastat is shot, could you please check the complete numbers needed for the the three pieces i need to replace this unit? this link :R7184 Protectorelay® Oil Burner Control shows a few units with different specs. for the R7184

the relay box shows a R88451003 as a universal relay box,

and lastly, L4006A1678 seems to be the correct aquastat.
 
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Old 12-30-08, 09:43 PM
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These two are as previously posted, the R8845 just having a 'U' in the center of the number.

Honeywell R8845U1003 Universal Switching Relay
Honeywell L4006A1678 AquaStat

For the oil primary controller there are several options. The A models are the basic interrupted ignition with no delays (pre-purge or post_purge). Here are two with different flame loss lock out times:

Honeywell R7184A1034 30 Second Safety Switch Timing
Honeywell R7184A1026 15 Second Safety Switch Timing

The U model has pre and post purge selectable delays. In this case an oil valve can be added now or at a later date.

Honeywell R7184U1020 45 Second Safety Switch Timing
R7184U1004 has a 15 sec Safety Switch Timing
R7184U1012 has a 30 sec Safety Switch Timing

The R7184 controls mount on a standard 4" x 4" junction box. Usually this box is mounted right on the burner.

Al.
 
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Old 12-30-08, 10:03 PM
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Honeywell R8845U1003 Universal Switching Relay
Honeywell L4006A1678 AquaStat
Why not combine these into a single unit? L7224U ... much easier to wire...
 
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Old 12-31-08, 06:42 AM
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Al, I am going to head out in a while to find some controls to get this boiler running.

do you have any comment on using the L7224U1002 instead of R8845U1003 and L4006A1678 ?

I am trying to anticipate what I might use based on what I will find in stock at the supply houses around Washington, PA and Pittsburgh.

thanks

Ed
 
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Old 12-31-08, 08:40 AM
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Looking at prices the L7224U1002 is a little more then the R8845U1003 and L4006A1678 units together. Although as NJ mentions it will be easier to wire in.

The L7224U is a triple aquastat such as your original R8182, but without the burner control.

I think it comes down to which setup you are more comfortable with.

Al.
 
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Old 12-31-08, 11:22 AM
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With the 7224 being a universal control, the 'triple' can be turned off by a simple setting... it will operate as a single or a triple...

One feature I like about the 7224 is that there is an adjustable diff on the HIGH limit too. Setting a wider diff is sometimes a benefit ...

Ed, yer probly gonna end up paying wholesale if you buy locally. You can usually save about 50% by going to an online seller... i.e. Patriot Supply - ... shipping is fast... you might be looking at 2-3 days tops for P'burgh area. Don't actually order online though, look up what you want, the call the 800 number.
 
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Old 01-02-09, 07:05 PM
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First, thanks to everyone helping me out here. I have purchased and received the L7224U 1002 Aquastat Burner Control and the R7184U 1020 Interupted or Intermittent Electronic Oil Primary.

I have looked over the wiring and before I start I had a few questions.

My system is a single zone 24vac thermostat boiler with circulator pump and Blue Angel HS burner. Right now, all wiring goes to my defunct triple aquastat R8182D, with mc cable leads to the circ. pump, and a single mc cable caring 2 cad wires and output of b1 and c2 running down to the burner unit, which carries power and neutral to the ignitor and burner motor. The hot leads are wired together, as well as the neutrals inside the burner unit wire box.


1) it looks like the oil primary box needs its own L1 and L2. can i just carry this from the Aquastat L1 L2 terminals, mounting the oil primary close to the aquastat?

2) My current system uses C2 terminal to carry neutral to the circ. pump and oil burner/ignitor. Can I use the C2 term on the new aquastat to carry neutral to the both circ. pump and oil primary ignitor and burner motor leads, or should i run separate from oil primary L2?

2) the output of the aquastat B1 terminal goes to the oil primary "Limit" connection. this Limit terminal is marked "optional". does this sound right?

3) it looks like the TT terminal on the Oil primary is jumpered, with thermomstat wires to T T on aquastat. does this sound right?

thanks,

Ed
 
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Old 01-02-09, 10:48 PM
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The 7184 primary control can run the ignitor independently of the burner motor. If connected this way, the ignitor will turn off after about 15 seconds of flame. This is called 'interrupted' ignition. In this case, you would need to separate the HOT wires where they are together on the old setup and run them individually back to the 7184. There should be no problem running this way, but should you find it necessary to run a continuous (intermittent) ignition, you can connect the ignition to the burner motor hot wire.

Something I just remembered... quotes from the install sheet:

Lockout Mode
The R7184 will enter the lockout mode when:
Flame is detected during valve-on delay.
• When flame is not established during Trial for Ignition.
• When flame is lost three times in one call for heat.
When flame is detected during burner motor-off delay
period.


NOTE: For universal R7184U model, valve-on delay
and burner motor-off delay timings can be
enabled (values as listed) or disabled (values
are zero) in the field, using DIP switch position 3.
If you have the delays enabled, and you do not have an oil valve on the burner, the control is going to lock out because it will see a flame during the delay period. In order to use the delays, you will need to add an oil valve to the burner.

Otherwise, disable the delays.

You don't have to wire the "Enviracom" terminals.

1) it looks like the oil primary box needs its own L1 and L2. can i just carry this from the Aquastat L1 L2 terminals, mounting the oil primary close to the aquastat?
Yes. The 7184 will mount on a 4" utility box. I wouldn't try to get two solid 12 or 14 ga wires under the screws though, I would use 'pigtails' from wirenuts. If you use a deep 4" box, it will be easier to run the 120VAC supply into that deep box, and come out with a separate MC cable to the 7224.

2) the output of the aquastat B1 terminal goes to the oil primary "Limit" connection. this Limit terminal is marked "optional". does this sound right?
Where do you see "optional" ? The "Limit" connection is required in order to fire the burner. B1 must go to the LIMIT terminal, else the burner will not fire.

3) it looks like the TT terminal on the Oil primary is jumpered, with thermostat wires to T T on aquastat. does this sound right?
Yes. That is correct. Certain applications would call for a thermostat connection to the TT of the 7184, but in your case they should remain jumpered.
 

Last edited by NJT; 01-03-09 at 12:10 AM.
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Old 01-02-09, 11:26 PM
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I guess I'm not the only one up late. thanks for your help.

On the bottom of the R7184 the terminals marked "limit" and beside it "valve" have a box over them that says "optional".
At any rate, I will connect B1 to the limit terminal as you suggest.

I will wire the ignitor and burner separate also.

Would you mount the R7184 on the burner motor housing or up by the aquastat? I am just thinking I already have a mc cable carrying the cad wires and two other wires right into the burner wiring box that reaches up to the aquastat area.

thanks again
 
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Old 01-02-09, 11:51 PM
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I'm a night owl ... and I love to draw ... so:



If you've already got the wiring run up to the old a'stat, and it's easier, go ahead and mount the 7184 up there. That's how I drew it. I'm not familiar with the older burners so wasn't sure if you could mount the primary there anyway...

I knew the valve was optional ... but wasn't aware that the LIMIT was also ? Not sure how it could be ... I'll take a look and see if there's another PDF file that shows the "U" version of the control in more detail. The one I'm working from is a paper version of the sheet for the "P" version.

p.s. I didn't draw the grounds in for clarity... but they should of course be connected all around.
 
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Old 01-03-09, 06:02 AM
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R7184

It can be mounted on a 4x4 box either on the burner or elsewhere. If no oil valve is involved, do not wire to L1, use the limit terminal to supply power to the control.
 
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Old 01-03-09, 08:00 AM
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The reason the 'limit' terminal is marked optional is that it is only required when using post-purge. The R7184U version being a universal primary control it can be used to replace most of the others. With many existing systems not having post-purge and the limit wire from the aqua-stat for it.

For the ignition try it on the interrupted terminal. If the burner runs OK, no noises, rumbling, or such during the first minute of operation then you are good to go. If the burner doesn't like the interrupted ignition then move the wire to the intermittent terminal. This will keep the ignition on the whole time the burner is running.

It should run OK on interrupted, but sometimes the burner setup and interrupted don't get along together.

Al.
 
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Old 01-03-09, 09:32 AM
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There are so many versions of this control it gets confusing.

Some have both ignition terminals available, some don't.

I looked at all the PDF files (even the ones en francais) on the Honey site and didn't see any that showed the use of the LIMIT circuit as 'optional' ... can someone point me to a document that shows it?

I think it is good advice to suggest adding the oil valve to the burner to take advantage of the burner on/motor off delays that are available on the control. (as Al pointed out in an earlier post) It can be done later, and then just flip the #3 dipswitch to enable the delays.

As such, I would wire as shown in anticipation of doing that.
 

Last edited by NJT; 01-03-09 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 01-03-09, 09:51 AM
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Hopefully this link works:

http://customer.honeywell.com/honeyw...m?form=69-1233

Should provide a install pdf for the R7184. Figure's 4 & 5 shown without the oil valve and limit connection.


There are so many versions of this control it gets confusing.

I know what you mean. Honeywell controls are almost all that way. At first it drove me crazy, then I started to catch on to how the numbering system works (if you can say it 'works').

This is why I was careful to specify the full number for the R7184 control in the previous post(s). Only the A and U versions would work for Ed when no oil valve is present.

Al.
 
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Old 01-03-09, 10:55 AM
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I saw FIG 4 ... and thought that that particular 'flavor' control didn't even have the LIMIT terminal.

Note that there is an error in that figure. How would the 'optional' oil valve ever open? It's shown wired from L2 to L2 ...
Same error in Fig 5 ...

Neither of those figures specify control 'flavor'...
Although, TABLE 1 indicates that diagrams 3,4,5 apply only to the "A" model. And there may be another error here also, if I'm correct in my suspicion that Fig 3 does NOT apply to the "A" model and is another error in the literature. Also note that the figures which table 1 says apply to the B, P, and U models ALL show the LIMIT terminal being used.

Does the "A" model even HAVE a LIMIT terminal?

This file appears to be the latest revision and does not have the errors in the valve wiring:

7184 install 3/08
 

Last edited by NJT; 01-03-09 at 11:47 AM.
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Old 01-03-09, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Grady View Post
It can be mounted on a 4x4 box either on the burner or elsewhere. If no oil valve is involved, do not wire to L1, use the limit terminal to supply power to the control.
Grady, can you point me to a doc that shows this?
I want to understand.
 
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Old 01-03-09, 03:08 PM
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Wiring

Trooper, I understand what you are reading in the diagrams BUT if it is not wired to B1 (which comes thru the limit) the burner will run all the time with the only safety being the cad cell. I don't use a "U" unless I have to & when I do I remove any unused wires & tape over the dip switches.
 
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Old 01-03-09, 04:56 PM
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Right, I understand that the signal to fire the burner must come from B1 ... and I think what you indicated was that you run that wire, but leave the connection to L1 off ... and that the control will power up like a normal old 8184 would... it's just that I don't see it in any of the docs, and wondered how you lernt that? I know ya got tricks up yer sleeve!
 
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Old 01-03-09, 10:14 PM
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There is heat in the house! THANK YOU for all the help, I would not have figured this out myself.

I did wire it as the diagram called for with B1 to the limit terminal, and a L1 lead to the L1 post on the relay. It seems to work well at ignition also. I can hear the ignitor kick off after a few seconds.

I have a problem though I think with settings. The boiler has been running about 1 1/2 hours. The thermostat still calls for heat and the boiler shut down. I went down and checked and the boiler temp was about 190 and HT is set at 180. The circ pump was off. After about 3 minutes, the circ pump kicked on, and after about 2 minutes the bt (still in the 180's) dropped to about 168 and the burner kicks back on. It seems that the circ pump should still be on, even with Ht shutdown to keep pushing the water as thermostat still calls for heat, and because the boiler cools down better with cool water returning.

these are the settings: HT 180 LL 130 Ldf 10 Hdf 10. I have all the dip switches on the relay down, which I believe disables delays.

the way this is now, the boiler runs about 10 minutes, then shuts off with high boiler temp.

What am I doing wrong here?

Ed
 
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Old 01-03-09, 10:17 PM
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Also, I have only manually operated "zones", with all valves open full. the control panel on the aquastat says Zone Control "ON", this as well as the other settings were all pre-programed, so I didn't change anything.
 
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Old 01-04-09, 08:12 AM
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R7184u

Trooper,
That little tidbit was learned by working on my own boiler. I installed the 'U' before I got the fuel solenoid. Being in the trade & having to cover my tail when working on others' equipment, I have to make stuff as tinker resistant as possible. Some homeowners wouldn't touch it with a 10' pole while others can't seem to wait until I'm out of the driveway to start.
 
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Old 01-04-09, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 84EdH View Post
There is heat in the house! THANK YOU for all the help, I would not have figured this out myself.

I did wire it as the diagram called for with B1 to the limit terminal, and a L1 lead to the L1 post on the relay. It seems to work well at ignition also. I can hear the ignitor kick off after a few seconds.

I have a problem though I think with settings. The boiler has been running about 1 1/2 hours. The thermostat still calls for heat and the boiler shut down. I went down and checked and the boiler temp was about 190 and HT is set at 180. The circ pump was off. After about 3 minutes, the circ pump kicked on, and after about 2 minutes the bt (still in the 180's) dropped to about 168 and the burner kicks back on. It seems that the circ pump should still be on, even with Ht shutdown to keep pushing the water as thermostat still calls for heat, and because the boiler cools down better with cool water returning.

these are the settings: HT 180 LL 130 Ldf 10 Hdf 10. I have all the dip switches on the relay down, which I believe disables delays.

the way this is now, the boiler runs about 10 minutes, then shuts off with high boiler temp.

What am I doing wrong here?

Ed
I believe you are correct, that as long as there is a call for heat, and the boiler temperature is above the low-limit, the circulator should be running. I would double check that the TT terminals are closed during this time. This would verify that a call for heat signal is being sent to the aquastat.

Al.
 
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Old 01-04-09, 09:25 AM
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others can't seem to wait until I'm out of the driveway to start.
Grady, good thing you've never been HERE! I'd be reaching over your shoulder pushing the buttons before you even brushed off yer knees! Beer 4U2
 
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Old 01-04-09, 09:42 AM
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boiler temp was about 190 and HT is set at 180
This would be normal if the circ turned off when the boiler reached HL ... 'heat soak' ... the water continues to pick up heat from the hot cast iron after the burner shut down and the circ stopped.

The circ pump was off.
But this is not right. If the boiler was hot, and the TT LED was lit (thermostat still calling), the circ should have been running.

After about 3 minutes, the circ pump kicked on, and after about 2 minutes the bt (still in the 180's) dropped to about 168 and the burner kicks back on.
This tells us that the HL circuit is working off it's DIFF, which you said is still at the default of 10 ... but I don't understand why the circ went off, and then came back on ... [thinking]

these are the settings: HT 180 LL 130 Ldf 10 Hdf 10.
The only thing I would change right off the bat would be the Hdf ... I'd run that at 15 to start with.

A 10 minute run is fine though... so if you don't change it right away, no big deal. Let's see if we can figure this circ thing first.

I have only manually operated "zones", with all valves open full.
When you say 'manually operated' ... I think what you mean is that your system is NOT zoned... you only have one t'stat, correct?

Zone Control "ON"
You are talking about the ZC LED on the control? The LED is 'backwards' ... when the LED is ON, ZC is OFF (not powered), and vice versa... I need to look at the docs again and check what implication that may have with the current circ misbehaviour.

Be back ... gotta go out for a while...

In the meantime, double check the wiring, and make sure that your circ is not somehow tied into the burner wiring... it should be wired directly to the C1 C2 terminals. Make sure that you aren't somehow inadvertently switching the NEUTRAL since it seemed some of your wiring may have been sharing that neutral...

Does the circ LED on the control 'follow' the operation of the circ?
 
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Old 01-04-09, 02:16 PM
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Update: it seems the circ works correctly. the thermostat although set at 65 degrees, "quit" calling for heat, and the timing just happened to be at a Ht limit. When I go up and put the thermostat up a few degrees, the circ comes on, and the burner stays off until BT drops.

a little card in the aquastat said to set thermostat to .1. this reading was way to the right on my thermostat. my old setting was way left. the call for heat was cutting out before the heat demand and room temp matched. (demand at 65, tt cut out at about 62 with anticipator set at .1. when I moved anticipator back towards the left, it seems to work better. not always, but a few times the burner kicks on for a short cycle of only a few minutes, and then kicks off, as if the thermostat setting is too sensitive, with tt showing "off".

by the way, this LED readout of all the settings is cool. That old R8182d was no where near this much fun!

i do appreciate all efforts to straighten me out.....
 
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Old 01-04-09, 02:47 PM
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"manually zoned" i bought this house about 11 years ago with original boiler (probably 30 years old now). there are three manual water shutoff valves by the boiler, with the output of the circ. pump splitting into three different pipes heading in different directions. upstairs, there is actually three thermostats mounted, with wires running to furnace room, but no hookups and no automatic valves. i had just thought someone had intended to have auto controlled zones, but never put all the hardware in. (ran out of money?)

I have tried to balance the heat distribution different times by opening or closing valves more or less (say to heat the living room more, and the bedroom area less), just like you would open or close duct gates on forced air systems. dont know if this is correct....i wondered if messing with the way the water flows could make trouble. I have all these valves wide open now.

the current aquastat settings are now: zc "on zr "Off", does this sound right?

Question: are new boilers signifigantly more efficient than the 30 year old Utica versions? oil right now is cheap, but I bought 850 gallons August 31 to get the summer discount, and avoid the promised price skyrocketing when the hurricanes were to hit...pd $3.57/gallon. I am wondering if I should start saving up for a new system over the next few years.

lastly, I am in the eye care field. if you need any expert info in that field I can help.

thanks again

Ed
 
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Old 01-04-09, 05:04 PM
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Glad you tracked it down Ed!

The anticipator settings are not always that accurate... and sometimes it does take some 'fiddling' with the setting until it's doing what it should... ultimately, I think erring on the 'longer cycle' side is probably best... if the burner runs on a bit longer and the temp overshoots the setting a bit, as long as it's not 'uncomfortable', then so be it... you'll end up with less, but slightly longer cycles... which is 'ok' ... but you should be able to find a setting that works fine.

I understand 'manually zoned' ... those valves can be VERY tricky to get set up ... problem with the approach is that for the most part there will be very very little change in heat output until the valve is darn near fully closed... and then you are left with moving the valve fractions of an inch ... and then as the weather gets colder, that setting may not provide enough heat into the circuit...

Newer boilers are more efficient... but if it's working OK for now, the first place to put money is in the building envelope. Insulate, insulate, insulate. My friend Xiphias says "Insulation is fuel you only pay for once" or something like that... the single biggest bang for the buck, with the shortest payback period. Caulk and seal air leaks, replace leaky doors and windows... all that stuff. Then, when you've gotten the home as tight as it can be, do a HEAT LOSS calculation, and replace the boiler with the CORRECT SIZE unit. Chances are very good that your old Utica is at least 2X oversized NOW... and after the home is tightened up, could well be 3X oversized. I'm sure you can SEE (punny, eh?) the logic in this!

The couple hundred bucks one might spend to have an energy analysis done on a home is money well spent. This should include a 'blower door test', where they install a big-a55 blower in an exterior door and SUCK the air out of the house. A FLIR (Forward Looking InfraRed) camera is then used to find areas of infiltration that need attention. The same camera can also spot insulation weaknesses.

Aquastat settings... increase the Hi Diff to 15 ...
 
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Old 01-04-09, 07:03 PM
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thats good advice. i did up the insulation in my attic, but have not done any objective tests for air leaks, heat loss et.

Ed
 
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Old 01-15-09, 11:11 AM
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Exclamation R8182d-l7248c

hi, i have about a 30 yr old boiler which need a new aquastat(on back the copper hi and low sensor is broke), can i replace a R8182D W/ a L7248C please help asap i got my circulator spliced and have to keep flipping the switch to turn it on and keep an eye on the temp. Please reply asap
 
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Old 01-15-09, 04:47 PM
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George, the short answer is NO... you can do what Ed did, and replace with multiple controls that together combined will do what your 8182 does. The 8182 is a combination control... it has both an oil burner 'primary' control and an aquastat in one package.

If you are not skilled at, and understand, re-wiring a boiler/burner unit, I recommend that you call a technician to help you out.
 
 

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