Dunkirk Boiler Gas Valve Not Energized burner not coming on.


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Old 02-13-09, 11:32 AM
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Post Dunkirk Boiler Gas Valve Not Energized burner not coming on.

Hello

Hoping for some help...

I'm unemployed so trying to do this myself. I heard a clicking noise in my Venting system and found a Bird stuck in my Vent and causing the auto vent not to close. I removed the Bird and noticed the furnace was not turning on. I checked the Spill switch and does not seem to be tripped. Also checked the Rollout switch and even switch it because I had a replacement... Furnace Boiler main does not fire. Checking the Status lights the Gas Valve / burner light is OFF. So I'm guessing the Gas Valve is tripped and closed. When I reset the Thermostate I hear a double click in the Gas Valve area...

Any checks or by passes I can do to double check saftey switches... Lead Wore bypass just for checking?

What are the chances of the gas Valve just going bad?

Please hep it's cold in NY
 

Last edited by BullisOk; 02-13-09 at 12:55 PM.
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Old 02-13-09, 02:49 PM
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Which Dunkirk? Plymouth? Quantum?
 
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Old 02-13-09, 03:16 PM
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Think I'd take a good look at that damper first... if that dang bird was stuck in there when it was tryin' to close, maybe the 'proving switch' on the damper is outta sync with the damper itself... maybe twisted something... who knows?

but that's where I'd look first.
 
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Old 02-16-09, 08:54 AM
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typing to fast edit spelling

Plymouth and I didn't see anything in book marked Proving Switch...??? What and where would I see it... I will check around Damper and see... I probably is out of sync because it was clicking trying to move and stuck with bird in it....
 

Last edited by BullisOk; 02-16-09 at 08:55 AM. Reason: miss spell
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Old 02-16-09, 09:08 AM
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Went further in book... If I set to Manuel OPen so vent is set open shouldn't that bypass the Venting issue if it is out of sync. There were no issues till this Bird... Could it have affected the Electronic Aquastat control and tripped something in there? Have no clue about that area... Thanks for helping..
 
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Old 02-16-09, 03:37 PM
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Well... that damper is wired in with the aquastat, so I guess anything is possible...

but yes, if there's a manual open on it, then try that... at least to see what happens...

When a thermostat calls for heat, what happens? Does the damper open? If it's sticking shut the boiler won't fire either... so take a good look and see if that's the case.

Grouchy, you familiar with these boilers?
 
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Old 02-16-09, 03:52 PM
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Bullis, I just looked at your boiler manual... at least I think it's the one you have...

What model aquastat is on your boiler? is it a Honeywell L8148E model? If so, there should be a cable from the aquastat to the vent damper. The 'proving switch' is in the vent damper assembly but they don't show it because they don't want anyone killin' themselves by jumpering it... because running the boiler with the vent damper shut is a sure way to kill ppl with CO poisoning!

I believe your problem is in the vent damper. You can safely run that boiler with the damper left OPEN, as long as you are sure that it can't fire when it's closed, and that it stays open... until you have time to repair/replace(my choice) the damper assy.
 
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Old 02-16-09, 09:53 PM
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Honeywell L7148 F Model... for the Aquastat. I checked out the Vent Damper and the Gears are striped in it from the bird so I will have to order one. It works, but stops at spots because of the gears being stripped. It does have the manuel Open and stays open when Thermostate goes from on and off asking for heat. I noticed it is not in sync right now. When asking for heat I have to move it slightly to get it engaged. I put it in Manuel open and stays open so no problem for CO... Now I am going to look at the vent Damper and see if I can fine the switch and try to by-pass for a test.. The Damper has a Digital board and not really sure where switch is on the device... Will look and wait for answer from you... thanks again for taking time to Help!!!
 
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Old 02-16-09, 10:04 PM
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OK I think I got it... Looking at the Damper control I see the Switch that controls the ARM for the Damper and see the jump wire going into the control and can see how when the arm goes up down direction with vent open it would close the contacts... Cant see inside but guessing it clossses a switch when it rotates... If I run a by-pass wire it should close the circuit for a test... ?
 
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Old 02-16-09, 10:22 PM
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OK I took the Vent damper apart and Saw where the Damper control pushes down on the control curciut 3 buttons in sequence when the vent opens and the middle button is wore or broke, but when I manually push all three down the main burner fires so I just need to get that part or at what ever stage of it they let me buy... All figured out... Just didn't go deep enough into the Damper... It was in the Vent Damper...

Thanks again... Now a matter of getting the parts I need...
 
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Old 02-17-09, 02:35 PM
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Glad ya got it sussed!

One source for parts that I've used and find very reliable is "Patriot Supply" on LI, NY. Not sure where you are, but if yer in the northeast, they can _usually_ get the parts to you in 1 day via UPS ground... but they ship fast, and prices are better then you will get locally... although supporting a local business isn't a bad idea either!

Patriot Supply

Find what you want on the website, then call the 800 number on the website and order over the phone. Call before 10AM and they will ship that day usually.
 
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Old 12-16-09, 06:04 PM
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New Problem

Originally Posted by NJ Trooper View Post
Glad ya got it sussed!

One source for parts that I've used and find very reliable is "Patriot Supply" on LI, NY. Not sure where you are, but if yer in the northeast, they can _usually_ get the parts to you in 1 day via UPS ground... but they ship fast, and prices are better then you will get locally... although supporting a local business isn't a bad idea either!

Patriot Supply

Find what you want on the website, then call the 800 number on the website and order over the phone. Call before 10AM and they will ship that day usually.

Thank you I did get the parts I needed from Patriot now I have a new problem... Just in time for the cold Weather... My last problem is fixed now the Pilot is out... It is a continuos burn and won't stay lit when I release the button. The furnace worked all last winter and now... The Pilot... any sugestions on what to check? Thanks...
 
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Old 12-16-09, 06:17 PM
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I believe that would be the thermocouple. Available at Home Depot.

Honeywell 36 In. Lead Length Universal Thermocoupler - Gas - CQ100A1005 at The Home Depot
 
 

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