Wiring Honeywell L6006C1018 with Grundfos UP15-29SU
#1
03-13-09, 01:25 PM
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Wiring Honeywell L6006C1018 with Grundfos UP15-29SU
Hello,
I just Joined. Thank you.
I am wanting to purchase a Honeywell L6006C1018 strap-on Aquastat to control a Grundfos UP15-29SU hot water circulator pump for a Domestic Hot Water System.
I have the pump circulating though a 6 gallon electric tank on a 3/4" copper loop. I am hoping to wire the aquastat to stop the pump when the temperature reaches 120-125 degrees and turn the pump back on when the temperature reaches 105-110 degrees. This way there is a greater possibility of efficiency rather than having the pump run for 4-6 hours continuously.
Has someone had experience with this setup? If so, how does the wiring schematic go and where would you place the temperature sensor in the circulation loop?
Thank you.
Stefan Schermerhorn
I just Joined. Thank you.
I am wanting to purchase a Honeywell L6006C1018 strap-on Aquastat to control a Grundfos UP15-29SU hot water circulator pump for a Domestic Hot Water System.
I have the pump circulating though a 6 gallon electric tank on a 3/4" copper loop. I am hoping to wire the aquastat to stop the pump when the temperature reaches 120-125 degrees and turn the pump back on when the temperature reaches 105-110 degrees. This way there is a greater possibility of efficiency rather than having the pump run for 4-6 hours continuously.
Has someone had experience with this setup? If so, how does the wiring schematic go and where would you place the temperature sensor in the circulation loop?
Thank you.
Stefan Schermerhorn
#3
03-13-09, 02:26 PM
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The water is in a closed loop. It gets replenished by a tankless Rinnai when demand is present in the home. Rinnai is set to 120 degrees and 6 gallon electric tank is set to 120 degrees.
For arguments sake, let's pretend I didn't mention the rinnai. Just think of a 3/4" loop powered by a 1/25 HP grundfos circulation pump. I want the Honeywell aquastat to read pipe temperature and tell the pump to stop circulating if the pipe temperature reaches 120 degrees. AND I want to tell the pump to start circulating when the temperature of the pipe reaches say 110 degrees.
Any thoughts about that?
Thank you for your reply.
-Stefan
For arguments sake, let's pretend I didn't mention the rinnai. Just think of a 3/4" loop powered by a 1/25 HP grundfos circulation pump. I want the Honeywell aquastat to read pipe temperature and tell the pump to stop circulating if the pipe temperature reaches 120 degrees. AND I want to tell the pump to start circulating when the temperature of the pipe reaches say 110 degrees.
Any thoughts about that?
Thank you for your reply.
-Stefan
#4
03-13-09, 03:43 PM
Stefan, so what you are talking about then is a 'domestic hot water recirculation system', is that correct? And, it is NOT a 'home heating system', also correct?
If so, this isn't really the right forum... but controls are controls...
Is the pump you are using a BRONZE one? It should be... actually it probably MUST be... cast iron may not last that long.
Some of the Honeywell aquastats are designed to 'strap on' to a pipe... not sure if the model you cited will do that... but assuming that it will, you just need to place the sensor in a place where it will do most accurate temp sensing, and wire up the 120VAC through the set of contacts that BREAKS ON TEMP RISE... which I believe are the R-B contacts. The NEUTRAL goes direct to the pump, the HOT goes to to the R, the B goes to the BLACK on the pump. Make sure to carry the ground through.
If so, this isn't really the right forum... but controls are controls...
Is the pump you are using a BRONZE one? It should be... actually it probably MUST be... cast iron may not last that long.
Some of the Honeywell aquastats are designed to 'strap on' to a pipe... not sure if the model you cited will do that... but assuming that it will, you just need to place the sensor in a place where it will do most accurate temp sensing, and wire up the 120VAC through the set of contacts that BREAKS ON TEMP RISE... which I believe are the R-B contacts. The NEUTRAL goes direct to the pump, the HOT goes to to the R, the B goes to the BLACK on the pump. Make sure to carry the ground through.
#5
03-13-09, 06:04 PM
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Hi NJ Trooper:
Thank you. Yes. Domestic Hot Water Recirc System. Sorry I have the wrong Forum. Going forward, I'll look for the right one.
And it is NOT a home heating system. The Pump is a Grundfos Stainless Steel designed for potable water and recirculation.
Yes, the L6006C1018 is a strap-on Aqua Stat. It is far more accurate than the one that ships with the Grundfos. Your insight helps my decision. I would strap on the sensor to the out going hot water immediately after the 6 gallon electric heater, providing the most accurate temp. I understand your wiring.Thank you. Now, after the pump is off due to reaching the high limit, will it kick back on after the temp falls to the set temperature differential? (eg. pipe temp reaches 120. Pump shuts off. Pipe temp falls to 110. Pump turns on.) That's what I am led to believe by the manual of the Honeywell aqua stat. Your thoughts?
Thank you.
Stefan
Thank you. Yes. Domestic Hot Water Recirc System. Sorry I have the wrong Forum. Going forward, I'll look for the right one.
And it is NOT a home heating system. The Pump is a Grundfos Stainless Steel designed for potable water and recirculation.Yes, the L6006C1018 is a strap-on Aqua Stat. It is far more accurate than the one that ships with the Grundfos. Your insight helps my decision. I would strap on the sensor to the out going hot water immediately after the 6 gallon electric heater, providing the most accurate temp. I understand your wiring.Thank you. Now, after the pump is off due to reaching the high limit, will it kick back on after the temp falls to the set temperature differential? (eg. pipe temp reaches 120. Pump shuts off. Pipe temp falls to 110. Pump turns on.) That's what I am led to believe by the manual of the Honeywell aqua stat. Your thoughts?
Thank you.
Stefan
#6
03-14-09, 12:47 AM
Not so much that it's the wrong forum really... the controls are much more 'boiler like' than they are 'water heater like'... but the water heater guys might know more about recirc systems than we do... it's a gray area.
Not sure that directly above the heater would actually be the best spot. If you get any hot water 'migrating' or any 'conducted' heat, it might not be the best place... you might want to move it away some distance, and maybe even some experimentation is in order. If there are 'heat traps' in the piping to the heater, I would install it _after_ those.
Yes, the pump will shut off at the setpoint and turn back on at the differential setting, and again, you may have to 'diddle' with the dials to get it where you want it.
Make sure to insulate the pipe and sensing bulb, and at least several feet on either side of the aquastat, if not the entire run...
Not sure that directly above the heater would actually be the best spot. If you get any hot water 'migrating' or any 'conducted' heat, it might not be the best place... you might want to move it away some distance, and maybe even some experimentation is in order. If there are 'heat traps' in the piping to the heater, I would install it _after_ those.
Yes, the pump will shut off at the setpoint and turn back on at the differential setting, and again, you may have to 'diddle' with the dials to get it where you want it.
Make sure to insulate the pipe and sensing bulb, and at least several feet on either side of the aquastat, if not the entire run...
#7
03-14-09, 09:30 AM
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NJ Trooper,
Thank you. I agree with everything you say. It will indeed take some experimentation to decide the final placement of the aqua stat. The entire 3/4" pipe run will soon be insulated, right after we get our close-in inspection.
I see the importance of insulating the entire pipe run in addition to the sensing bulb. I am considering using some expanding foam to completely encase the sensing bulb at the pipe. That way no cold air from the garage can influence the reading from the sensing bulb. Many thanks for your pointers.
Once I get the stat and install it next week. I will report back with either success or wiring complications. Have a nice weekend.
Best,
Stefan
Thank you. I agree with everything you say. It will indeed take some experimentation to decide the final placement of the aqua stat. The entire 3/4" pipe run will soon be insulated, right after we get our close-in inspection.
I see the importance of insulating the entire pipe run in addition to the sensing bulb. I am considering using some expanding foam to completely encase the sensing bulb at the pipe. That way no cold air from the garage can influence the reading from the sensing bulb. Many thanks for your pointers.
Once I get the stat and install it next week. I will report back with either success or wiring complications. Have a nice weekend.
Best,
Stefan
#9
03-14-09, 10:01 PM
Like this one Grady?
L6008A1192
I don't know that I'd go that far... but if you do, tape over the bulb and pipe so that none of the foam can get between and push the bulb away from the pipe as it expands. I would call that overkill though... and a pain to change out the a'stat if that time ever comes. I would just use pipe insulation, and maybe step up one size around the bulb. I have a similar setup here with a remote bulb running a circ, and there's no problem with just using the pipe insulation.
L6008A1192
I am considering using some expanding foam to completely encase the sensing bulb at the pipe.
Last edited by NJT; 03-14-09 at 10:17 PM.
#10
03-15-09, 12:23 PM
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Aquastat
Trooper: Yes
You can use the 6006C but the combination of mounting & insulating becomes a pain. It's hard to mount the aquastat firmly & insulate the bulb. It can be done with some careful carving of the insulation. I just find it easier to insulate the bulb well using a remote mount. Try to get one with as short a capillary as practical. No need to get 10' of capillary if you can use 5'.
You can use the 6006C but the combination of mounting & insulating becomes a pain. It's hard to mount the aquastat firmly & insulate the bulb. It can be done with some careful carving of the insulation. I just find it easier to insulate the bulb well using a remote mount. Try to get one with as short a capillary as practical. No need to get 10' of capillary if you can use 5'.
