2 threads past or flush?


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Old 04-07-09, 11:19 PM
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2 threads past or flush?

Did a search, couldn't find a definitive answer.

Schedule 40 black iron (steel) pipe when threading NPT, do you go two threads beyond the die end or stop when it's flush?

I've seen/read material that gives conflicting advise.

What's the correct way?

Thank you.
 
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Old 04-08-09, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by BooDaa View Post
Schedule 40 black iron (steel) pipe when threading NPT, do you go two threads beyond the die end or stop when it's flush?
I'm a little unsure what your question is. "Flush" with what?

Pipe threads are (or should be) tapered. Proper tightness is determined by torque, not by how much they are engaged. There are guidelines for the torque, but it depends upon the size of the pipe. Most people just go by "feel."

If your male threads are completely engaged in the female fitting, then I think there is something wrong with the threads.
Doug
 
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Old 04-08-09, 11:37 AM
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threading

I think the writer meant how far to cut the threads, most plumbers go one or two threads past the end.
 
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Old 04-08-09, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by sidny View Post
I think the writer meant how far to cut the threads, most plumbers go one or two threads past the end.
Oh, OK, thanks. I misunderstood. I've never threaded pipe - just watched others do it.
Doug
 
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Old 04-09-09, 06:27 PM
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Yes, a couple threads longer than the die or stop when the die is flush with the pipe end? Anyone have the skinny on this and the what and what for of threading beyond for a couple threads?

Sorry for not being clear.

Thanks.
 
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Old 04-09-09, 07:47 PM
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I'm thinking that the "Plumbing & Piping" forum might be another place to post your question.

Modern hydronic heating systems don't use threaded pipe nearly as much as in days of yore. Soldered copper pipe has pretty much taken over - except for natural gas piping.
Doug
 
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Old 04-09-09, 07:55 PM
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I believe that EIGHT threads are considered proper engagement for black pipe. So cut 10-12 threads and you should be good to go.
 
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Old 04-09-09, 08:32 PM
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Thanks NJ Trooper and gilmorrie.

I guess I'll count the teeth in my dies.

Here's an example of threading until flush:

YouTube - Steamfitting/Pipefitting #2

Still leaves me wondering the purpose of going 2 threads by.

I like old school and simple, BI does that for me. I just don't have access to much in the way of nipples etc 1-1/4 but have lots of pipe and a ratchet threader. Have threaded pipe before but only to screw into flanges/bases etc and have never needed to worry about water tightness.

Thanks very much.
 
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Old 04-09-09, 08:57 PM
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Boo, I found this e-book that looks like a pretty good read if yer new at doing BI... I just read the first page and it's pretty straightforward writing... the book is published in 1918, some of the illustrations are cool... check out the one of the water heater a few pages after the pipe threading part.

Chapter-XII-Pipe-Threading

Looks like a neat site, gonna pokaround there and see what else they got.
 

Last edited by NJT; 04-09-09 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 04-10-09, 09:01 AM
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Thanks NJ Trooper that's very helpful!
 
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Old 04-10-09, 09:24 AM
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I normally stop when it's flush (on a Ridgid die).
 
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Old 04-10-09, 07:49 PM
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Flush with the outside of the plate that holds the cutters in place on the Rigid diestock. This will be about 1-1/2 to 2 threads past the end of the cutters themselves.
 
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Old 04-11-09, 04:56 AM
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Thanks OldGrouchy and furd. I counted the teeth of the cutters on my 1-1/4" die (ridgid), the shortest has 8 teeth and the longest of the 4 has 10 teeth. Using the chart in the book NJ Trooper linked to, it indicates for the 1-1/4" die that 11.5 teeth per inch as well as 11.5 teeth are required per end.

So given the 10 teeth equals 10 threads when flushed at the cutter ends, another 1.5 turns achieves the 11.5 threads required.

Still can't understand the need/concept to cut 2 threads beyond the cutter ends, all that is really accomplished is the taper moves up by 2 threads leaving the first 3 threads the same.

Thanks again.
 
 

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