Problem with Prestige Solo 175


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Old 04-08-09, 09:02 AM
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Problem with Prestige Solo 175

I replaced my ancient coal fired boiler 2 years ago with a Prestige Solo 175. It has operated flawlessly since then until last week when it came up with error code E-29, blower signal does not reset to zero. The trouble shooting manual isn't much help for this code, it recommends checking the wiring, then replacing the wiring harness from the control module to the blower, then replacing the blower if that doesn't work, then replacing the control module if there is still a problem.

I am leaning toward the control module being the source of the problem. I have noticed that when the burner shuts down due to the water temperature reaching the set point, the blower does continue to spin at a low speed. It continues that way for a minute or so and then flashes E-29. If I do a simple reset, then the boiler just sits there in stand-by even though there is a call for heat from the thermostat (I have determined that the thermostat is working properly) and the blower still spins. Only when I unplug the control wiring coming from the blower does the burner try to respond to the call for heat. If I leave the control wiring unplugged, the blower spins at full rpm and the display cycles back and forth between 1 and 5 as it tries to check for the appropriate air flow. When I plug the control wiring in again, the blower spins down to its operational rpms and then the burner works normally until the water reaches its set point again and then the whole problem comes again.

So obviously, the control module is reading correctly that the blower is still spinning. The only question is what is making the blower spin when it should be stopped? I have also ruled out a draft through the box causing the spinning. The blower is clearly spinning at a constant low rpm. My guess is that the control module is sending a small voltage to the blower and making it spin. I just realized that I didn't check for that specifically.

Anyone have any ideas? I haven't called tech support yet. I can give more information if you need it. I'm going to tinker with it a bit more tonight and I'll post if I discover anything.
 
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Old 02-12-11, 05:40 PM
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Prestige 175

I have the exact same problem with my 175, 2 years old. Able to restart when I did what you did (disconnect blower and reconnect during start up sequence). Waiting to see what happens next.

If you are still around, what did you do to resolve the issue?

Thanks for any help you can give,
Andy
 
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Old 02-12-11, 05:59 PM
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Can you measure the voltage at the black and white wire on the tacho plug for a 0 - 10v dc signal when you are experiencing this problem?
 
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Old 02-12-11, 06:16 PM
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Don't have a meter at home - which plug are you referring to? I know just enough about this thing to probably get myself in trouble. Trying to get some heat and some information before the tech comes in on Monday - or see if I can sort it out by myself. Appreciate anything you can do to make me smarter here. When the unit cycles off, and the return water gets to temp to call for more fire, If I don't do anything the E 29 pops up. If I unplug the wiring to the blower and catch it right in the sequence, the blower spins up rpm, I plug the blower harness back in, and I get one more cycle of fire, with everything looking and sounding like it should. I have tried to contact snarf by message...
 
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Old 02-12-11, 07:54 PM
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Sorry bout that. Guess I am still more tired then I thought. Just got back from Fairbanks Alaska 9pm last night. Long week.
The Black and white wire on the 4-wire plug on the fan. You want to measure it when the fan is moving slowly. You might be better to test the molex connector it is plugged into which is X2 connector terminals 2 & 3. If the fan is running when it is not supposed to be there should be no voltage at those terminals.
 
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Old 02-13-11, 10:33 AM
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Thanks for your help. Found the reference to the tach wire on the schematic after I responded to you. Couldn't check the line voltage (no meter at home) but could definitely hear the blower spinning when it shouldn't be. Last night cycled the boiler one more time by disconnecting the blower connector (X2, 1 through 4) at the blower when the cycle went from step 6 to 5 (pre-check) for about 2 seconds and then re-connecting it -- "tricking it" to go to pre-purge and cycle. Odd thing was, this time, following step 6 (burner off), the blower shut off completely (not spinning). I'm guessing if I had a meter I would have confirmed what you suggested. Have had heat through the night and boiler is operating as it should. Not confident that there isn't something wrong with the controller - expect to see this repeat. Do you know of what input could be driving the controller to keep calling for the blower to spin? Something coming from the combustion chamber? Or just errant signal? I expect a call from the local tech tomorrow.

thanks again,
Andy
 
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Old 02-14-11, 09:29 AM
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I took apart as much of the boiler as I could to test voltages and look for any obvious damage, but I couldn't find anything or get any useful data. I contacted Triangle Tube and communicated with their engineering department. They seemed to think it was the blower. They sent me a new one for free, even thought the system was out of warranty. I'm not sure why they did that, but they were excellent to work with, and didn't mind communicating with me even though I'm not an HVAC installer. I swapped out the blower myself, and that fixed the problem and it has been operating flawlessly ever since. This is the middle of the second heating season with the new blower.

I sent the old blower back to Triangle Tube, and their engineering department contacted me back in a few weeks. They said that there was some corrosion inside the blower (I suppose that messed with the electronics inside because it is a continuously variable motor). They suspected that the intake and exhaust ducts were installed incorrectly. I knew that wasn't the case, but I went outside to observe it in operation anyway. What I discovered was that my dryer exhaust and the neighbor's furnace exhaust (our houses are only about 10 ft apart) are both upwind from the intake for my Prestige. When they are operating, the exhaust blows right by the intake. I'm not sure if that is the problem or not. I plan to reroute the dryer exhaust, but there is nothing I can do about the neighbor's furnace.

I hope this helps.
 
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Old 02-14-11, 10:17 AM
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snarf, I wonder if it would be permissible to install some type of 'snorkel' on the air intake to your system? I'm not real familiar with your boiler or how it's supposed to be installed, so take this for what it's worth!
 
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Old 02-14-11, 10:21 AM
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Yes, that would be possible, and I have considered it. It's mainly the look of 4" PVC going up the side of my house that I wanted to avoid. I have also considered running the intake from the chimney where the old boiler was connected.
 
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Old 02-14-11, 07:23 PM
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Am I missing something? I cannot find the spec's for venting the Prestige 175 in the I&O manual. Is there a seperate manual for venting?
 
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Old 02-15-11, 04:59 AM
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FWIW, dryer exhaust can have all kinds of nasty stuff (from a boiler's air supply perspective) in it. Detergent and fabric softener residues, chlorides, etc. That might have something to do with it. In some boiler install manuals, there are specific directions to avoid being near dryer exhausts.
 
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Old 02-15-11, 05:18 AM
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Venting Supplement

Originally Posted by rbeck View Post
Am I missing something? I cannot find the spec's for venting the Prestige 175 in the I&O manual. Is there a seperate manual for venting?
Ya, there is a " PVC & CPVC Vent Supplement" it's 32 pages with all the info you'd need.

Rich Davis
 
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Old 02-19-11, 02:46 PM
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One other thing you may want to check is the electrical wiring to the boiler. The TTs require very "clean" electricity and a good ground - you should have a dedicated cable, with a good, copper grounding wire (not the sheaf of a BX cable!) running from your panel to the TT, with nothing unrelated to the boiler on that circuit.
 
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Old 02-19-11, 06:23 PM
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Thanks dunoon I will check that out.
All boilers with printed circuit boards require good grounds. The more circuit boards and logic the better the ground needs to be.
 
 

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