#2 fuel oil tank piping questions

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Old 05-10-09, 11:06 AM
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#2 fuel oil tank piping questions

I think I heard somewhere, probably in this forum, that you shouldn't use compression fittings on the supply line from the oil tank to the burner. Does anyone know why? I have a 330Gallon vertical tank that I'd like to install a cartridge filter on. There's a Gar-Ber spin-on at the burner but it seems to me that a filter at the tank outlet would collect more of the H2O and sediment if there were any. The supply tubing runs overhead and I don't know if the pump would have enough suction to lift any garbage from the bottom of the tank. My furnace repair man says I shouldn't need a second filter. Any thoughts on whether or not I should put one in? Thanks
 
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Old 05-10-09, 11:33 AM
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Compression fittings on copper lines leak. The copper is too soft to allow a good seal. Using 45* single flares is the way to go. And easy to make on the copper tubing. Flare fittings can be found at the big box stores.

A additional filter at the tank is a good idea (I did the same, one at the tank and another at the burner). Just the standard style that takes the felt cartridge is all that is required. Can also place two at the tank in series. With the first one being empty, no filter in it. The General 1A-25A is what I am referring to.

Al.
 
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Old 05-10-09, 12:48 PM
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Thanks. An empty filter housing sounds like a good idea but I probably don't have room for two of 'em. The tank has a 2" X 3/8 nipple off the side outlet into a firomatic. Then a close nipple into a gate vv.(?). Then a 3/8 mnpt 90 degree into 3/8 flared copper. Would you put the filter between the two valves or after the gate vv.? I'm not sure how tight a seal you get with a firomatic.
 
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Old 05-10-09, 07:32 PM
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My furnace repair man says I shouldn't need a second filter
I agree... you shouldn't...

and fuel oil should be 'clean' and dry...

and the dewpoint should always remain below the temperature of the oil in the tank so you don't get condensation...

and delivery trucks should be cleaned periodically...

but then, this is the real world.

I should think that a 1A-25 WITH the filter installed at the outlet of the tank would do the same thing as far as collecting the water. Two might be better, but one is better than none.
 
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Old 05-10-09, 07:38 PM
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Would you put the filter between the two valves or after the gate vv
I'm guessing it's a ball valve, but even so, I'd install the filter between two valves... especially since you said you have an overhead line, shutting the valves should prevent draining that line when you change the filter.
 
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Old 05-11-09, 06:11 AM
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Thanks, between the two vvs. is the logical place for it. I'm just concerned how well a Firomatic vv seals. I'll blow the line back from the Gar-ber spin-on, close the Firomatic, loosen the flare fitting and hope for the best I guess. If I need to flare the Cu tubing again do you have any tips about single flaring? I have an Imp. double flare tool and can double flare OK but single flaring seems to be trial and error for me. I set tubing in the clamp at the same height as you would to double flare and the end result was a mega-flare. Setting it at about half that height looks about right. I'll double flare it if that's acceptable.
 
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Old 05-11-09, 08:02 AM
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The firomatic should close tight enough... you might get a drip or two... but shouldn't be a problem.

I don't see any reason that a double flare wouldn't work, it's just that I don't know whether a standard flare fitting is designed for and will work with a double flare... I bet Old Boiler knows this.

Probably no difference in the fittings... but verify first.
 
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Old 05-11-09, 08:47 AM
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As it worked out I didn't need to cut or re-flare the existing tubing. There was enough play in it that I could re-bend it to fit. Everything bled out OK and I don't see any leaks yet. Thanks for your advice.
 
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