I think I am in a similar situation to [URL="http://forum.doityourself.com/boilers-steam-hot-water-systems/389448-boiler-advice.html"]t_fin[/URL] so I am posting this in hopes of also getting some valuable input. I need to replace the original 1950 American-Standard gas boiler (Series 20B-J23, 240,000 BTU) in my 2700sf house with hot water radiators. We currently have two zones but are considering adding a third when we convert the attic into a master bedroom and bath (which would make the house 3300sf). We plan to be in this house for at least 12 years. I have three estimates that seem to be quite different and I'm not sure how to compare them. I'll list them here from least to most detailed in terms of work to be done. #1: $6,541 (this is the local gas utility, National Grid) Burnham 206 HNC, fan-in-can "customer responsible to have boiler removed asbestos insulation inside jacket" [yes, that's the complete estimate] #2: $14,635 Buderos, G/B 142/45 95% AFUE Isolation valves to to feed and return piping system Copper type (M) pipe and fittings for heating Copper type (L) pipe and fittings for domestic Watts combination boiler feeder back flow prevention unit Grundfos multi-speed circulator pumps Watts flow check valves Extoll No. 30 expansion tank PVC exhaust plumbed to exterior of house TACO electrical control panel Electrical wiring Exterior temperature sensor Buderos 32 gallon domestic hot water heater plumbed to existing domestic water piping system CO 2 detector hard wired Disassemble/dispoasal of existing heating system and domestic hot water heater #3: $13,480 Lochinvar KBN105 95K BTU 94%, wall mount with outdoor reset and domestic water control 2 Taco 00R-IFC 3-speed circulator pump with check valve 1 Superstor SSU-45 stainless steel indirect hot water tank (or SSU-60 for additional $800) Installation of listed equipment Reconfigure piping within existing mechanical area for supply and return manifold Connect to existing radiation in basement Removal of existing venting system and cap chimney Installation of piping from new boiler manifold to existing distribution piping Installation of new expansion tank Installation of new Spiro vent air eliminator Installation of isolation valves Installation of PVC flue (direct vented at front location of home) and CO detectors Installation of PVC flue vent for sealed combustion Condensate for boiler shall pump to sink in basement 2-year warranty on installed parts and labor including 1 tune-up after 1st full year Removal and disposal of existing boiler (professional asbestos removal company must be contracted to remove any existing asbestos) #3 looked at every room in the house and took the plans back to his office before supplying an estimate while #2 never left the basement. So here are my questions: Why is #2 specifying a 32-gallon and #3 a 45-gallon hot water tank and will that be enough for a family of 4 in which we might do a load of laundry and run the dishwasher and then take four consecutive showers or should we have a 60-gallon? Why did #3 measure where the exhaust flue could go on the exterior of the house (and determine that there wasn't enough room on the side of the house between the chimney and the gas meter to meet code so the two exhaust pipes will need to come out the front of the house at least 48" from the ground) while #2 didn't measure and didn't mention any possible issue? Why did #3 warn me away from aluminum boilers like the Buderos while #2 said there was no reason for concern? Why did #2 specify copper piping and fittings but #3 didn't? Why does #3 mention where the condensate is going but #2 doesn't? Why isn't #2 mentioning asbestos removal? Are these costs reasonable? I would be grateful for any help in making this decision.

There is a fair amount of seepage around the edges and the bolts of the faceplate on the tankless coil on my Burnham V14 boiler. When the boiler comes on regularly for heating, the moisture evaporates and just leaves a lot of mineral deposits, but in the summer I have the boiler on a timer so it only comes on three times per 24 hours. Things get pretty wet that way. I had the same problem about a decade ago, pulled the coil and replaced the gasket. That held for a year or two. I'm about to give it another shot. Is there a better than the standard (rubber IIRC) gasket material available? Is there any sort of goop-in-a-tube that could be used with the gasket, or by itself? I suspect to find quite a bit of pitting on the boiler where the coil plate is mounted and on the surface of the matching surface of the plate as well. The bolts look badly corroded. Any advice on how to get them out with the least chance of their snapping off? Would I be better off just leaving the thing alone and put up with the wetness till I need to replace the 18 year old boiler with a new one and a hot water tank? Thanks