boiler noise, expansion tank issues


  #41  
Old 10-09-09, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cheinemann View Post
finally, I am thinking that if I have positive results after flipping the pump around and bypassing stuff, would it be as easy as removing the zone valves, and flipping them over, so that they face the right direction? Then with the zone valves enabled, this would prevent gravity feeding, correct? Or, do the zone valves need to be on a certain side, the supply side, or return side? Finally, after I flip the circulator pump around, will the line that feeds the expansion tank still be correct? I read somewhere that that the tank needs to be plumbed to the suction side of the pump.
Beer 4U2

"If it were my problem"

I would purchase two new zone valves, a SpiroVent air removal device, a bladder type tank, and a pressure reducing valve.

Remove the pump from the return, and pipe the return direct to the boiler.

Come up off the supply on the boiler, install the Spirovent after turning horizontally, hang the new tank on it with an isolation valve and drain, and water feed (see pic), then the pump, then the two zone valves. You might have to do some clever rearranging of the pipes, but it looks like you have plenty of room.



The zone valves can go on either the return or the supply.

If you mount the pump on the supply side, and stay with the standard tank (which if it's in good condition, why not?, nothing wrong with doing that), the location of the expansion tank connection is fine. It will be pumping away...

So, that's really the easiest solution, because all you would have to do is move the pump from the return to the supply. You could leave the B&G and zone valves alone, and the expansion tank is fine.

With that, the only other change I would make would be to tee the water feed into the line between the boiler and the tank (with a reducing valve).
 
  #42  
Old 10-09-09, 04:47 PM
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well, I have decided that I may as well flip the zone valves, the pump, and the gravity valve to all face the same direction. I talked to a friend of mine that is in plumbing and heating, and he said he would come flip everything around and it would go rather fast. As for the pump being backwards, yes I verified it by this spec sheet, and yes there is an arrow on the back of the pump. http://www.bellgossett.com/literature/files/4.pdf
This is the link for the spec sheet on the pump. The pics may not show it very well, but yes, the pump is backwards.
 
  #43  
Old 10-09-09, 04:50 PM
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As you said..... what you would do if it was your problem... Yes, I do plan on moving the pump to the supply side, but my friend, and myself found it would be easier, faster, and cheaper, to flip everything around, and replumb the water supply line as you said, and if that all works well, then come spring, or summer, then move the pump to the supply side, install the autofill valve, etc etc. Its all starting to make sense now!
 
  #44  
Old 10-10-09, 01:51 PM
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Well, I went and purchased some fittings and new valves for the valves that leaked. I am about ready to switch everything around, but I am wondering, are the zone valves, and the gravity valve heat sensitive? Do I risk damage to them when I take them out and put them back in?
 
  #45  
Old 10-10-09, 03:34 PM
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The zone valves are... that's why I would just use new ones. The B&G valve should be threaded...

If you are gonna go to all that trouble to switch stuff around, why not just move the pump and be done?
 
  #46  
Old 10-11-09, 08:21 PM
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Well, I have switched everything around, it works GREAT, and everything is SILENT now. I am still having some minor issues, with my second floor heat... It is not as hot as the first floor, and one baseboard is cold. Which I am guessing there are still some air pockets, or airlock in the system. Also, the boiler now, cycles much more, probably due to the air in the system. I bled the system both cold and hot. This should work itself out over time, correct?Beer 4U2
 
  #47  
Old 10-12-09, 02:26 PM
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Can we see pics of the new arrangement?

We can probably also help you get that air out if you want.

Air in the system shouldn't cause the boiler to cycle more, that's more likely due to the fact that the heat in the boiler is now making it out to the zones properly. I'm willing to bet that you had severe flow issues the way it was.
 
  #48  
Old 10-12-09, 08:28 PM
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First, I would like to say that I did find a solution to the minor heating issues. It just happened that I accidentally switched the second floor zone valve to auto, instead of manual. Once this was switched back, water flowed normally and everything worked very well. In regard to posting more pics, I will let you know once this is done. Finally, With the gravity valve in the right place, the boiler no longer overshoots the thermostat.
 
  #49  
Old 10-12-09, 08:45 PM
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Ok, now the updated pictures are posted. Note, that the descriptions are either "new boiler", or "re-worked" and also from a thumb-nail view, look for a yellow flashlight to help identify new pictures. I also would like to say, it was rather tough and time consuming to re-do this due to many differenet leaks after I rearranged things. I still have a couple of leaks, but they are VERY MINOR. I plan on fixing them soon, but on the other side of things I also am very particular about walking my basement several times a week, simply to examine the mechanicals, to ensure that everything is in working order.
 
  #50  
Old 10-13-09, 05:08 PM
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I also re-worked the plumbing on the relief valve so a slight extent. This should make you happy.
 
 

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