Advice for dialing in TT Prestige Solo


  #81  
Old 02-07-10, 05:03 AM
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I bumped my od temp to 12 as well I think the thermostat didn't get satisfied because the curve was too low and hope no damage occured
 
  #82  
Old 02-07-10, 06:35 AM
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What kind of damage are you concerned about? I think you should give your settings a few days before deciding if they need to be adjusted up or down. You really can't tell after just a few hours. There's a lot of trial and error involved with getting the curve just right.
 
  #83  
Old 02-07-10, 06:46 AM
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well the thermostat lost 3 degrees from 10 last night until 630 this morning when i woke up. I think my final numbers are 168 max 100 min 12 degree coldest day. the stats are at the temps called for but not satisfied and the condensate pump ran twice since 630 this morning. I think I'm close to where I want to be. It is 18F here right now with 8 " of snow on the ground. I just don't want to damage the boiler running it so much.
 
  #84  
Old 02-07-10, 06:54 AM
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You do want to start with the proper OD temps though. The water temp can be played with. I think someone stated earlier if you know the heat loss and the amount of radiation you can dial this in pretty close.
You need a heat loss to properly choose the right boiler size. How close does you heat loss and boiler match? You should do the heat loss at your OD design temperature and another at 60f. This gives you the high and low numbers. Divide each by the btu per ft of radiation. Check the charts available and you know what water temperature is a good starting point both high and low.
See this link.
Technical Menu
Click on outdoor reset.
 
  #85  
Old 02-07-10, 07:21 AM
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I don't think you need to worry about damaging the boiler by running it too much. Constant circulation is the ultimate goal for efficiency.
 
  #86  
Old 02-07-10, 08:14 AM
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My heat loss is about 75,500 using slant fins calc.
 
  #87  
Old 02-07-10, 09:39 AM
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OK if you followed the link you have about 1/3 of the information needed to get starting guidelines. Get the length of element, not cover, per zone if you have more than one zone.
 
  #88  
Old 02-07-10, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by RYSDAD814 View Post
I just don't want to damage the boiler running it so much.
The ideal modulating boiler would turn on in October and not turn off until May. Cycling is hard on equipment and hurts efficiency. The longer it can run without turning off, the better.
 
  #89  
Old 02-09-10, 04:52 AM
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heating at 112F with 34F temps check it out Thanks guys

day4complete.jpg picture by rysdad814 - Photobucket
 
  #90  
Old 02-16-10, 04:14 PM
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curious

Any way to lower the speed of the CH and DHW fans on the triangle tube MCBA? I can't find the parameters for them. Trying to save energy
 
  #91  
Old 02-16-10, 04:39 PM
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You can lower the fan speed to get closer to the heat loss but there is nowhere you will know exactly how much. You need to lower the speed and clock the meter with just the boiler running, nothing else burning even pilots. Re-adjust and clock the meter again.
Parameters 13 thru 16. 13 is thousands & hundreds and 14 is tens and ones for heating and the same applies to 15 & 16 for domestic hot water.
This is not a linear adjustment so 1/2 the rpm's is not half the input.
 
  #92  
Old 02-16-10, 05:14 PM
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It won't work for this system. The parameters go from 13, frost protection to 18 CH block temp setting.
 
  #93  
Old 02-16-10, 09:37 PM
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I would call them and find out how you can adjust the fan speed. As popular as this product is I feel there must be a way to dial into heat losses. I know many of the other products let you. They don't even have a parameter list in the manual.
 
  #94  
Old 02-16-10, 10:15 PM
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With heating,
There is NO reason to turn down the fan speed, the PID logic should not allow the burner to modulate up that high very quickly (unless your starting up cold). By turning down the upper firing limit you rob yourself of the ability to utilize the boost feature and set backs.

With DHW, you really want that HP to "get ur done" so as not to stay in priority mode.
With MCBA version 5 they have blocked a whole bunch of useful functions IMHO, luckily for me they set me a wide open MCBA in one of the boilers and I was able to copy it.
I have pretty much full access, if I want it. This would also expose me to a pretty big liabilty if things went bad.

With the latest combustion control to come, I hope they relax in their protection, but knowing TT.... they will not.

If anyone can tell me a valid reason to reduce the fan speed limit, I would love to hear it.
 
  #95  
Old 02-17-10, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by TOHeating View Post
With MCBA version 5 they have blocked a whole bunch of useful functions IMHO
They've also blocked the ability to add an offset to the outdoor temp sensor. That's annoying.
 
  #96  
Old 02-17-10, 06:19 AM
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I think turning the fan speed down is a wonderful idea. It matches the heat loss better. Always bearing in mind that you only need full input at design which is practically never. You still have a boost feature as the boost will bump the heating curve. The industry says the perfect system is matching the heat loss and constant run. Dial down to the heat loss, leave the domestic fan speed up. This feature is especially good when you need to up size the boiler for domestic demand but the heat loss is less.
I have also had a gravity system with large rads and a small addition but no domestic.
Kept the heating fan speed where it was factory set and connected the small baseboard loop to the domestic terminals and reduced the DHW fan speed. This gave me higher temps for the addition and priority as that is where they spent all their time. The old gravity system never misses a beat in comfort. The idea of mod/cons is to be able to maximize savings and increase comfort. Sounds like TT is taking away all the functions that allow a thinking contractor to do that.
 
  #97  
Old 02-17-10, 03:31 PM
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I called TT today and they said I can't lower the fan speed. They asked why and I told him everything I wanted from this boiler. I went over all my numbers with him. He had to gasp for air when I told him as we spoke that with fin tube baseboard at 36F I'm heating the house with 115F water. He said oh we recommend 120 min 180 max. Then when he caught his breath he said I was way ahead of the game. His guess on my efficency was 97 to 98%. He said there is like next to no load on my boiler and that is why my delta T is so close. Great job to all on here for your help.

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  #98  
Old 02-17-10, 04:01 PM
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Is the burner cycling off and on even though you have long run times?
If the answer is yes that is why would you not want to turn the fan speed down. I am just wondering why they don't want the fan speed changed. The fan will operate between high and low fire OK so if the boiler is over sized why not be able to dial it in to match the heat loss.
True it will modulate but when it first turns on and the return temperature is well below the target temp why input 110K when 85K (using arbitrary numbers) is your heat loss and the max you will ever need. Longer run times are set into motion. The modulation can still go down to the minimum that the manufacturer has it set to.
 
  #99  
Old 02-17-10, 05:34 PM
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He said It's not possible for me to do it. I said the same thing to him and he said it will not fire at a full 110K 1 because of the low load and water temps, and 2 because I will almost never see a design temp of 12F and without the boiler being set for 180F it will never go to 110K. Even with the DHW we turned it down to 180 from 186. That will only go to like 85K. Maybe thats there way of lowering fan speed? (In their minds?) I would like to turn the DHW fan down because we don't really need the water that quickly but It'll probably be a good thing around the holidays with family and stuff.
 
  #100  
Old 02-17-10, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by RYSDAD814 View Post
He said oh we recommend 120 min 180 max.
if they recommend a min temp of 120, why would they ship with a default min temp of 86? Doesn't sound right to me.
 
  #101  
Old 02-17-10, 07:12 PM
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DHW we turned it down to 180 from 186. That will only go to like 85K. Maybe thats there way of lowering fan speed?
False!

Changing water temperature does not change input. There will be many situations especially during the shoulder seasons it will fire to full input for a short time before it will start to modulate down.
 
  #102  
Old 02-20-10, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by rbeck View Post
Is the burner cycling off and on even though you have long run times?
If the answer is yes that is why would you not want to turn the fan speed down. I am just wondering why they don't want the fan speed changed. The fan will operate between high and low fire OK so if the boiler is over sized why not be able to dial it in to match the heat loss.
True it will modulate but when it first turns on and the return temperature is well below the target temp why input 110K when 85K (using arbitrary numbers) is your heat loss and the max you will ever need. Longer run times are set into motion. The modulation can still go down to the minimum that the manufacturer has it set to.
The PID logic that they have running in the solo seems very slow. I have not seen a boiler ramp up to full power off the get go (unless DHW demand).
 
 

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