Honeywell v804331012 valve wont open
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Honeywell v804331012 valve wont open
I have a Honeywell v804331012 valve that will not open. The thermostat calls, the motor spins, but no water flow.
I opened another zone,allowed the water to move in that zone, moved the manual lever to open on the broken valve and still no flow so I am assuming it is the valve that is broken.
Does anyone have pics on how to remove and replace.
Thanks
I opened another zone,allowed the water to move in that zone, moved the manual lever to open on the broken valve and still no flow so I am assuming it is the valve that is broken.
Does anyone have pics on how to remove and replace.
Thanks
#2
#3
Hold on before calling the zone vale bad post some photos zone vales ,and purge stations and circ. what is the pressure on the boiler ?? (I opened another zone,allowed the water to move in that zone) Did you get heat?? in that zone is this b.b zone?? top floor??
William
William
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Pic
Flickr: greghart6866's Photostream
Attached is a pic.
The pressure is 15-20.
Based on the pic you can see that the rim of the motor is rusted. The motor still spins when called though.
Attached is a pic.
The pressure is 15-20.
Based on the pic you can see that the rim of the motor is rusted. The motor still spins when called though.
#6
Possible that your system isnt balanced right, so by opening the 'other' actuator it did turn on the circ pump but all/most of the heat went into that other loop.
Try turning off that other call (tstat) and turn on this defective one to make the actuator run.. then short the red wires to simulate an end switch. If the circ pump comes on then thats good. If you get no heat thru the loop, then the valve is stuck..(or something else in that loop) .. if you get heat then the end switch is bad.
Just my 0.02..
Try turning off that other call (tstat) and turn on this defective one to make the actuator run.. then short the red wires to simulate an end switch. If the circ pump comes on then thats good. If you get no heat thru the loop, then the valve is stuck..(or something else in that loop) .. if you get heat then the end switch is bad.
Just my 0.02..
#7
ok if you trace the red wirs on the vale you will see a card board cover under it is a black box with a red switch the moter turns a can moves to push that switch in when the switch is in the circ will start now with a volt med you can check for power on the red wires at the wire nuts red wire to ground ,red wire to ground NOT RED TO RED . you will have 24v or 120 v from each wire now check voltage at circ 120 volts
post whatyou find
Wiliam
post whatyou find
Wiliam
#8
PS. if you want heat in the zone on the top you have a tit you can lock it over to the other side that will open the vale if you have two zones when that zones calls for heat you will have heat in the bad zone as well if one zone only you will get a little heat
William
William
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Valve opening
I shut all the other thermostats and the problem persists.
I went to home depot for a new valve and noticed the valve opening is larger than than the 1/2 cooper pipe. I checked the other two zone valve and they too are larger. Is there some type of opacking used on these valves ?
How does the packing effect sweating the pipe to the valve ?
I went to home depot for a new valve and noticed the valve opening is larger than than the 1/2 cooper pipe. I checked the other two zone valve and they too are larger. Is there some type of opacking used on these valves ?
How does the packing effect sweating the pipe to the valve ?