How does a zone valve work
#1
11-20-09, 05:22 PM
How does a zone valve work
I have Honeywell zone valves (V8043E 1020) that have stopped working. I took two of them apart and got the motors to run again. When the thermostat calls for heat does the motor run and open the valve then stays in the run mode until that zone is satified?
#3
11-22-09, 09:04 AM
Thanks NJ Trooper, Do you have any ideas on why the gears would jump when the motor is holding the valve open. It looks like it would be hard to put the motor in wrong. The screw mounting is fairly tight so the gears should be meshed correctly. Without looking at it closely I do not think the gears could be miss aligned. Is there a common mistake that can be made? Thanks for the help
#5
11-22-09, 05:33 PM
It was last year that I took them apart so my memory isn't real good. What I do remember is there was rust in there somewhere and I cleaned that up. The rust was behind that cover that comes off the back. If I was to take it apart again I would remember what I did. I think I also oiled up the armature a little. These zone valves are on a wood boiler so I am opening and closing them manually now. I would like to get them to run the way they are suppose to. This system ran flawlessly for 20 years and towards the end of last winter 3 zone valves went kaput.
#6
11-22-09, 08:03 PM
I'd say that if they are 20 years old, they are due for replacement... I don't think the new style powerheads will directly replace the old style valves though... I think there is some kind of adapter plate or something to fit the new powerhead on an old valve.
#7
11-23-09, 04:35 PM
That is not the answer I wanted to hear. That is what I thought I might wind up doing though. I am going to play around with them a little. If I can't make them work it will be new power heads. Thanks for your help
#10
11-24-09, 02:49 PM
I used to replace a lot of (similar) zone valves. Most of the time the gears chewed up from too much resistance due to calcium/crud buildup on the inside of the valve itself. Usually the actuator is replaceable seperately from the valve body. We would pull off the actuator and if the valve could be turned easily, we would just replace the actuator, otherwise we changed out the whole unit (but then, we were not paying for them...) You say you have been operating it manually, does it turn easily or does it feel like it is binding?
Snarksdad
Snarksdad
#12
11-25-09, 04:33 AM
Wouldn't do much good if the gears and stuff are all wore out though, right?
#13
11-25-09, 02:36 PM
any ideas on why the gears would jump
But, thinking about it a bit more, it makes me wonder if there isn't some kind of 'clutch' mechanism inside the motors... like when the valve is open, the clutch 'slips'... never took one apart to find out... I always thought that the motor just didn't have that much torque and simply stopped when it met the resistance of the valve opening fully.
#14
11-25-09, 02:49 PM
Originally Posted by NJ Trooper
I always thought that the motor just didn't have that much torque and simply stopped when it met the resistance of the valve opening fully.
Something jumping or clacking away doesnt sound right.
I had one valve go bad once where the internal carriage mount for the pin drive shaft sheared off. The motor would spin, and appear to operate, but the guts were moving up and down instead of pushing the valve pin up and down (and thus, no heat).
Thats Wirsbo guts mind you, Im not sure how Honeywells are made inside.
#15
11-25-09, 04:56 PM
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Gears Jump
I've replaced hundreds of Honeywell motors for exactly this same problem. Sooner or later they will get to the point where the motor won't open the valve at all, just skip. Replace the motors. Chances of the valves being the problem are quite remote.
#16
11-25-09, 05:09 PM
Grady, yer sayin' that the 'skipping' is inside the motor itself, and not in the external gears?
V8043 motor
V8043 motor
#17
11-26-09, 08:57 AM
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Motor
Trooper,
Yep, sure 'nuff. Trouble internal to the motor. Several years ago Honeywell had a run of motors with this problem. Don't remember the date codes but they would replace the motors 2 for 1.
Yep, sure 'nuff. Trouble internal to the motor. Several years ago Honeywell had a run of motors with this problem. Don't remember the date codes but they would replace the motors 2 for 1.
#18
11-27-09, 05:21 AM
Thanks for the help on the zone valve. The chatter among you guys was quite helpful. Looks like I need to buy the motors and an adapter kit and I will save a lot of time.
#19
11-27-09, 08:51 AM
If you are just changing the motor, I don't know that you'll need the adapter kit. The new motor may be a plug and play...
Last edited by NJT; 11-27-09 at 09:14 AM. Reason: Quicks Draw McGraw at the keyboard!
#20
11-27-09, 08:54 AM
If replacing just the motors you won't need the conversion kit.
Trooper was quicker on the draw, and correct
Trooper was quicker on the draw, and correct
Last edited by dun11; 11-27-09 at 08:56 AM. Reason: i am too slow
