Bad Taco Circulator?


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Old 12-08-09, 08:13 AM
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Bad Taco Circulator?

Trying to troubleshoot a current heating problem.

I have a 4 zone water baseboard heating system with a single circulator is a Taco 007-FB4-JW on the return side between the valves and the boiler.

The zone in the basement (boiler level) is cold.
The zones on the main floor (1 level above), 1 is warm and 1 is cold.
The zone upstairs (2 levels above) is fairly hot.

Over the past few years I have had to bleed the lines each year due to significant noise / air in the lines. The sound of running water may be soothing, but I know is not efficient.

2 weeks ago a bled the lines by attaching a hose to each of the zone bibs and running water from the automatic feed through to the zone and out the hose until all air appeared to be gone. When I restarted the boiler i notice a crackling noise coming from the area of the circulator. I removed the cover and when i restarted, I noticed the noise again and saw a little bit of smoke.

I think, but i'm not sure, that the system has operated since then, but now it appears to be not working at all. The zone analysis above has been consistent for at least 2 days.

So, does this require just a capacitor change? or does it likely require either a cartridge or complete pump swap out.

Thanks for your help
 
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Old 12-08-09, 11:45 AM
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First, I'd get the circulator running. Repacement caps are available - that won't require draining the system and maybe that will fix it. From your description, I would bet on the capacitor being the problem.

Keeping a spare cartridge on hand isn't a bad idea.

Troubleshoot the zone valves with a voltmeter to see if they are getting 24V when the corresponding thermostat is calling for heat.

Did you keep your system pressurized over the summer? It's hard to understand where the air is coming from. What type expansion tank and air removal devices do you have? If it's a bladder-type tank, you need Maid-O-Mist, or similar, air remove device with the vent cap loose.
 
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Old 12-08-09, 04:01 PM
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Thanks Mike.

I wanted to get this fixed today and was having difficulty finding the capacitor. So I ran to HD and they had the pump in stock. It was fairly easy swapping in the new pump. The hardest part was that i had to cut off the old bolts due to rust. And then I had to run back out 'cause i forgot to buy nuts.

It's running like a charm now. Cost me less than it would have just to have someone show up at the door to look at it.

Regarding the air...i have no idea. The system remains pressurized. The air shows up during the winter season. I think I have a "bladder-type tank" ... Extrol? the cap is loose. the problem may be at the hose bibs on each valve. They do leak a little. water could mean air in, right? Otherwise I don't know of any leaks.

Does the air have a negative effect on the system mechanically? or does it just make the system less efficient?
 
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Old 12-11-09, 01:08 PM
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Anyway, I'm not sure "keeping a spare cartridge" is worthwhile. I just installed a new taco 007 and wanted to have a spare cartridge on-hand. The taco cost me $73, and a spare cartridge is $53. Maybe I'm looking at the wrong part ... but it doesn't seem to make any sense to have replacement cartridges when swapping the whole unit is only $20 more.
 
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Old 12-11-09, 02:44 PM
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I can swap a cartridge in about 56 seconds I think it was.

I'd rather swap a cartridge than a complete circ anyday.

Unless your getting something for that 20 bucks then why bother spending it.
 
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Old 12-11-09, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JamesNJ View Post
... but it doesn't seem to make any sense to have replacement cartridges when swapping the whole unit is only $20 more.
Point well taken. In which case, I would recommend keeping a spare pump. With my luck, my pump would shoot craps on New Years Day with the temperature -20.

The cartridge is the only moving part in the pump - and replacing the cartridge is quite a bit easier than the whole pump. But, it you have a spare pump, you can always pull the cartridge out of it if that is the problem.
 
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Old 12-11-09, 09:21 PM
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air in your system is always bad. first, air means oxygen, which means rust.
also,air conducts no heat and may impede the flow of water.

you need to determine how the air gets in, first.
any fresh water entering the system, to replace leaked out water, will carry dissolved air, which is one reason why you dont want leaks. Not to mention that water in a house on the floor or inside the walls is undesirable.
 
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Old 12-12-09, 02:22 AM
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How replace the cartridge ?

How do u replace the cartridge on one of these Taco007 ?
What tools do you need ?
Does water come out or no ?
Thanks
 
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Old 12-15-09, 04:23 PM
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5/16" nut driver.

Shut off the water at each side of the circulator (hopefully someone installed shut off flanges or isolation valves).
TURN OFF POWER, of course, undo 4 bolts, pull can off, pull cartridge out, put cartridge in, tighten bottom bolts almost, litley snug top bolts.
Turn on suction valve and burp circ by loosening the top screws a bit until water comes out.

If you are in an area that will be damaged by water, as in a finished area over wood or something, you would do well to place a basin under the area. Water will come out through the process
 
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Old 12-15-09, 05:28 PM
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If there are no isolation valves? What then?
 
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Old 12-15-09, 05:33 PM
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Hehe,

You know what next :-)

Time to drain the system, and put isolation flanges on
 
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Old 12-15-09, 05:44 PM
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Sure I do! just not sure that Phil does... and playing 'devil's advocate' a bit ya know.
 
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Old 02-21-15, 11:39 AM
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wmoda, I've moved your question to a new thread, you should be able to find it easily.
 
 

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