Leaky gasket on B&G 100 series circulator pump


  #1  
Old 12-12-09, 05:38 AM
N
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 6
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Leaky gasket on B&G 100 series circulator pump

Can I use any kind of gasket sealant or gasket making compound on a B&G series 100 pump. The B&G techs and local parts supplier say don't use anything other than the paper gasket.

Replaced the impeller assembly on a 40 year old B&G 100 series circulator pump due to worn bearings. Carefully and completely cleaned off the old gasket, used the new gasket supplied, but it leaked (steady drip when pump runs). The leak is where the pump body bolts to the impeller assembly. Tore it down and replaced the gasket, being careful to torque the 4 bolts evenly and slowly, and not overtighten - it still leaks. Unfortunatelty, there is only an isolation valve above the pump (but not below) on this loop of a two zone/two circulator system. So, I have to drain the system to replace gasket (the iron pipe leading into the boiler from the lower flange is way to old and crusty for me to mess with). I want to get this sealed on the 3rd try -- any advice?
 
  #2  
Old 12-12-09, 08:34 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: U.S. Midwest
Posts: 1,340
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I'm suspecting that the steel mating surfaces may be boogered up.
 
  #3  
Old 12-12-09, 08:45 AM
O
Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: A Galaxy From Afar
Posts: 421
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Had to make a trip to the garage before I could post. Needed to get the name of the sealer.

First true up the mating surfaces. Using a flat fine or medium cut file, draw file the mating surfaces. That is to place the file flat on the surface and push it in the forward direction. Move it around and cover all areas of the surface from multiple angles.

Do this on both surfaces until they show shiny across the entire surface. Be sure to draw file, holding the file flat against the surface.

Then use a sealer such as Victor Reinz perfect seal sealing compound. This can be found in an auto supply store and comes in a small can with a brush. I'm drawing a bit of a bank here, but IIRC, Permatex also sells a similar sealer in a small can (aviation cement?).

Apply a thin coat to both sides of the gasket and re-assemble.

For a sealer, DO NOT use RTV, or The Right Stuff. Neither of these are the proper for this application.

Al.
 
  #4  
Old 12-12-09, 09:40 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: U.S. Midwest
Posts: 1,340
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Here's my old standby stuff, right here: http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...c_Compound.htm

Here's the technical data sheet that talks about the color, consistency, and smell (same as I remember it): http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/20539.pdf

It's been used for many decades with paper gaskets. I can still remember the smell of that stuff. If it really stinks, it must be good, right? In the old days, a paper, felt, or cork gasket would never be installed bare.

It's made by Permatex. And the bottle hasn't changed in 50 years. Reassuring.
 
  #5  
Old 12-12-09, 10:11 AM
O
Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: A Galaxy From Afar
Posts: 421
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yes, good old Indian Head Shellac. I almost mentioned it, but not having ever used it figured it would be better not to (no direct experience with it). It does have a good rep, so that too can be used.

The other one I couldn't think of is High Tack. Found it on Permatex's web site (thanks Mike):

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...et_Sealant.htm

A sticky reddish-purple liquid that not only seals but will hold the gasket in place while fumbling with the bolts.

Any of the four mentioned can be used with good results.

Al.
 
  #6  
Old 12-12-09, 03:54 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 14,381
Received 35 Votes on 33 Posts
Quit fighting it

Get out the recip saw & cut the flange bolts then replace the pump with a 007. The flange to flange distance is the same as is the orientation of the flanges. My guess is the leak is from the bearing seal.
 
  #7  
Old 12-15-09, 04:22 AM
N
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 6
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the advice. The Permatex appears to have done the trick -- along with dressing the face of the pump body with a fine file. The newly installed impeller assembly and body just wasn't exactly the same fit as the 50 year old plus one that was removed, nicks, gouges, pits and more. Grady -- I'll consider a whole new pump when summer comes.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: