I have an oil-fired boiler with one primary circulator that feeds three heat loops, controlled by zone valves. 1st loop is indirect hot water tank, 2nd loop is hot-water baseboard, 3rd loop is to a set of in-floor radiant heat zones. The boiler aquastat is set to 180F high limit, 140F low limit. The radiant loop is the issue - it should run at lower temperature, and uses a mixing valve to mix its own return back into the inflow to do so. Whenever a radiant zone is calling for heat, the current controls open the zone valve between that radiant loop and the boiler, and that zone valve tells the boiler heat is being called so it fires itself up to 180F. If radiant calls for heat for too long the whole loop overheats - the return water isn't cool enough to keep the temperature down and the whole thing runs away with itself. I've seen radiant loop hit temps of 150F, not good for the floors! What I'm considering is installing an L6006C aquastat strapped onto the radiant outflow, set to break the radiant's zone valve when high temp is hit to shutdown flow of new hot water into the loop. That'd mean running the L6006C at 24VAC, not 120VAC. Do you think this application would work, or is there a better tool for the job than the L6006C? Re-engineering the whole control system isn't an option at this point in time (future, perhaps!) Thanks!

I picked up a condensate neutralizer for my Triangle Tube Prestige boiler. There's a sticker on it that says to place it horizontally between the boiler and the condensate pump. The condensate pump is directly beneath the boiler, so it would be a whole lot easier to place it vertically. In fact, the barb on one end could drain directly into the condensate pump reservoir without any additional tubing if vertical mounting is okay. I can't imagine why the orientation would matter since it's basically just a section of PVC pipe with crushed stone inside. Does anyone know of a reason why I shouldn't have condensate drain through it vertically?