Wirsbo/Uponor valve leak

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Old 12-28-09, 11:44 PM
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Wirsbo/Uponor valve leak

Water leaks out around the "pin" shown in the first 3 photos (it's driven by motorized valve actuator that's hanging there. Could anybody explain what I need to purchase and/or do to fix this leaky valve?

Thanks in advance!

 
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Old 12-29-09, 04:47 PM
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I don't know a heckuva lot about these manifolds... but did some serious googling trying to find you an answer. No joy.

What I did find is that they apparently don't sell this type of manifold any longer. I would have thought that there would at least be a PDF file and a parts list on their website... or at least SOMEWHERE on the web. again, no joy.

I did find a few blurbs about these older manifolds though. That black plastic insert with the numbers on it is supposed to be adjustable.

Is the top surface of that plastic part FLUSH with the top of the threaded portion? Or is is sticking up a little bit 'proud' of the threaded part?

I think these guys are talking about the same manifold you have.

http://radnet.groupee.net/eve/forums...7061056282/p/1

Reason I'm asking about the plastic part is because in the pics it appears to be a bit above the threads, and that _MAY_ have something to do with it's leaking. The one feller says that you screw that plastic part all the way down, then back it out two full turns MAX... I wonder if it's backed out further than that if it will allow it to leak?

If all else fails, try calling Uponor/Wirsbo (800)321-4739 (main)
 

Last edited by NJT; 12-29-09 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 12-29-09, 07:36 PM
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Same manifold that I have. Havent had a leak around the adjusting cap though (knock on wood). They should be about flush, not proud like that.. although Im not sure that would cause or fix a leak. Why is the one MVA mounted upside down anyhow ?? Im pretty sure Wirsbo says 'Do not mount upside down' in the manual..

Come to think of it.. screwing that valve cap down shouldnt affect the leak. I have valves on both my supply and return manifolds. One side has the MVA's, the other side just has internal valves with those black adjusters and caps. This allows me to balance out my differing length loops. My super long loop is standing out quite proud and does not leak. You might need to print out those pics and take them down to a supply house for a new valve. They appear to unscrew from the manifold (although I havent done one ).. of course you will have to dump your system water level and/or isolate the area enough to prevent a big mess.

Just curious, I see multiple generations of the MVAs on there. Wirsbo had some flaky assemblies on those MVAs for a while, the company came good for them for a while on an extended warr. Ive changed out defective end switches in them ($5 vs $100).. there's a thread on that method on the site that Trooper posted if ya need it someday..
 

Last edited by DaveC72; 12-29-09 at 08:47 PM. Reason: added last 2 parargraphs
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Old 12-30-09, 09:41 AM
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Thank you for the replys, fellers!

Wirsbo/Uponor tells me the valve comes out of the manifold with a wrench, just like a guy would expect. The valve is part number A2350028. I've got two of them on order for $9 each from a local distributor.

Now I've gotta figure out how to remount the actuator, fill the system back up with water and get the air out... Anybody know of a procedure to get that done?

Thanks!
 
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Old 12-30-09, 03:40 PM
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Before you go ahead and drain the system to change the valves... you owe it to yourself to at least TRY the idea of screwing the plastic thingy down, and back out two full turns. It appears to be out way too far from what I can see in the pics, and this MAY be the problem...

Without a bunch more pics, we won't be able to tell you how to purge the air out of the system when you finish replacing the valve. We pretty much need to see everything around the boiler.

As for the valve parts... you were careful to make sure they understood which manifolds you have, right? Because the parts for the ones they sell now will NOT fit your manifold.
 
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Old 12-30-09, 03:51 PM
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Why is the one MVA mounted upside down anyhow ?? Im pretty sure Wirsbo says 'Do not mount upside down' in the manual..
Yer right Dave, I did read that in the I&O for the MVA...
 
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Old 12-30-09, 04:31 PM
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Google that part number and get no hits at all.

Makes me wonder if I should check the local supply houses and stock up on a few before they go the way of the Dodo bird (at $9 each, pretty cheap..)

I cant think of a mechanical reason why not to mount the MVA upside down.. surely it must be just in case of a leak (like the one has done already).. the water would flow inside of the MVA and potentially ruin it. Im not sure what the standard routine is for having a pex line going "up" like that zone. I probably would have made a sweep with anchors onto a plywood sheet etc.
 
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Old 12-30-09, 10:11 PM
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I appreciate all the help here! Here's the latest in my battle ...any help/thoughts/suggestions appreciated!!!

Two sources (a distributor and Wirsbo/Uponor) have identified my valves as part number A2450028 (click the link for a retailer that sells them).

I carefully took the valve out with a 3/4" 6 point socket. It still gnarled over some of the brass, definitely not a job for a crescent wrench. I'm pushing the valve open in picture 4, the spring is still very stiff!

The last picture shows it apart. The plastic piece (with the numbers on top) has a male pipe thread. Pipe threads are generally made to seal and it appears that's what this one needs to do, I'm pretty sure it would leak if it wasn't tight. So the suggestion of backing it out 2 turns doesn't make sense for what I'm seeing.

The valve is leaking right up the center stem. I really don't see what ever kept it from leaking. I wonder if the factory didn't slather some kind of waxy or siliconey stuff inside this thing (there's a little evidence of something like that around the O-ring). Maybe it just finally passed enough of the stuff that it's able to leak. I'm going to call Wirsbo and ask about that tomorrow.



The below pics are above my water heater. It looks like that Taco air scoop just magically sucks the air out of the lines. Do you suppose I could just keep adding water to maintain pressure and let this air scoop reject the air? I don't see anything else that looks like a vent.

 
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Old 12-31-09, 10:55 AM
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There's probably an O-ring around that stem, on the other side, under the washer part... or perhaps there WAS an O-ring and it deteriorated and broke apart and is now somewhere else in the system.

The cap on the top of the air vent should be loose to allow air to escape... nothing magic about it! But the problem with continually feeding water is that the oxygen in that fresh water will corrode any ferrous components over time. You could do it for a while, but since you are replacing the valves... no worry.
 
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Old 12-31-09, 01:21 PM
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You're right - there is a small o-ring around the shaft. The shaft is stainless steel and there was some crud on it. I cleaned it up with an emery cloth and will try putting it together with a slather of waterproof grease the hardware store sells as a "lubricant for faucets and valves stems".

Wish me luck!

Thanks for all the replies!!!
 
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Old 12-31-09, 01:49 PM
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While you wuz at the hardware store ya mighta/shoulda seen if they had that size O-ring...

Good Luck!

Feliz Ano Nueva!
 
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Old 12-31-09, 06:35 PM
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Chaos 1, Water-Bug 0. It leaks like mad, way more than before. Maybe I shouldn't have put that slime on the o-rings... whatever it is, a new valve ought to be the cure. That's what I'll do after I get back in town from a 10 day trip. I hope the forced air furnace doesn't decide to quit me now!
 
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