Advice on Watts 1156 Auto Fill Valve
#1
01-08-10, 09:05 AM
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Advice on Watts 1156 Auto Fill Valve
I couldn't find a definitive answer on this so I thought I'd ask the advice on this forum. The pressure in my boiler dropped to zero and I found that a high valve bleeder (not sure of the name but it is a canister on top of the zones with a bleed screw) was leaking. I replaced that, but I wondered why the Watts 1156 regulator wasn't feeding water in to keep pressure. On inspection I noticed that the regulator was turned all the way down to 0 pressure (screw turned counterclockwise fully) and the only way to pressurize was to use the fast fill lever. My question is, was this done on purpose to save flooding if something failed?
Seems smart to leave set low and only fill when needed since ideally the closed system should never need filling?
Thanks for the help,
Jim-
Seems smart to leave set low and only fill when needed since ideally the closed system should never need filling?
Thanks for the help,
Jim-
#2
01-08-10, 09:18 AM
2 different schools of thought.
One, you keep water supply off, like yours, so that if there is a leak you know about it soon, and minimal danger of a slow leak damaging drywall, joist,etc( if the leak is not visible, you may have long term slow drips).
Or:
you keep it on, to make sure the boiler is always full, and don't have to worry about it shutting off without your knowing it
One, you keep water supply off, like yours, so that if there is a leak you know about it soon, and minimal danger of a slow leak damaging drywall, joist,etc( if the leak is not visible, you may have long term slow drips).
Or:
you keep it on, to make sure the boiler is always full, and don't have to worry about it shutting off without your knowing it
#3
01-08-10, 09:19 AM
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Can you post a pix of the leaking "canisiter"? Sounds more like an air eliminator than a bleeder. Upload to a "free image hosting" site, and link here. Also, take a pix of the near-boiler piping, showing the pressure reducing valve area and other valves in that line.
I don't think the pressure reducing valve should be turned down to "zero." If you want to isolate it, there should be a separate manual shut-off valve upstream of the PRV - if there isn't, add one.
I'm guessing that the PRV was leaking past its seat, causing the pressure to keep creeping up - so maybe somebody cranked down on the adjustment to stop the leak. You can leave it like that for the time being, but replace the PRV when weather permits.
I don't think the pressure reducing valve should be turned down to "zero." If you want to isolate it, there should be a separate manual shut-off valve upstream of the PRV - if there isn't, add one.
I'm guessing that the PRV was leaking past its seat, causing the pressure to keep creeping up - so maybe somebody cranked down on the adjustment to stop the leak. You can leave it like that for the time being, but replace the PRV when weather permits.
#4
01-08-10, 09:33 AM
I don't think the pressure reducing valve should be turned down to "zero
Ideally, there should be a low water cut off in the system if the pressure drops, this is code in many areas.
#5
01-08-10, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by dun11
He's talking about an auto-fill,
