Gas Supply Valve help
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Gas Supply Valve help
Hi again, hope all is well with everyone. I have a question. My gas supply valve has been making buzzing, odd noises for the past 2 weeks and it needs to be replaced. Do I need to have a professional install it or can I install it (a total novice) because I called up one place and they wanted $580.00 installed....
This is the 2nd gas valve that will be installed in my boiler because the 1st one was submerged in water.
Well, I wrote down the part number from the sticker and it's a Honeywell VR8300C4506. I don't know if this is the proper gas valve since it's a replacement from the original. My boiler is a Peerless MI-06 and I've checked websites and I've gotten 6 different Honeywell's that fit my system. I don't even know if the one installed on it now is the correct one or not? Help?.......
P.S.
I will update my other thread next Saturday when I get my gurgling and sloshing fixed from another HVAC company. I really hope they can fix it because this is driving me nutty and costing me lots of dough!


This is the 2nd gas valve that will be installed in my boiler because the 1st one was submerged in water.
Well, I wrote down the part number from the sticker and it's a Honeywell VR8300C4506. I don't know if this is the proper gas valve since it's a replacement from the original. My boiler is a Peerless MI-06 and I've checked websites and I've gotten 6 different Honeywell's that fit my system. I don't even know if the one installed on it now is the correct one or not? Help?.......

P.S.
I will update my other thread next Saturday when I get my gurgling and sloshing fixed from another HVAC company. I really hope they can fix it because this is driving me nutty and costing me lots of dough!



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You can save quite a bit of money by DIY - I see that valve is available for about $120 on the internet.
When you say that you're a "total novice," do you have pipe wrenches and know how to apply pipe dope? Do you have a feeling for the torque to pull up pipe connections? And the pilot tubing and thermocouple connections? If you've never worked on piping systems, maybe this isn't where to start.
I assume the valve buzzes only when it is open? (Otherwise, it's de-energized and should be totally silent.) It's possible that there is a poor electrical connection in the 24-V circuit to the valve, causing low voltage and the buzzing. Looking at the Peerless electrical diagram, the thermostat, hi-limit switch, and flame-roll-out switch are in series with the gas valve. Do you have a multimeter? With the burner on, check the voltage across the 24-V terminals of the gas valve - you should get above 20V a.c. If not, suspect a bad connection somewhere. If a solenoid is provided with too low a voltage, it is more likely to chatter.
Make sure the buzzing is coming from the gas valve and not somewhere else. When the solenoid is energized, they are usually fairly quiet - maybe a hum. The solenoid is operated by 60-Hz a.c., so there is bound to be some noise.
How old is the valve? They are usually trouble-free for quite some time, but anything is possible. I can't imagine any source of buzzing except the solenoid.
I don't know enough yet to say for sure that the gas valve needs to be replaced. If you hire somebody to replace the valve for $580, they will do that - and if the replacement valve still buzzes, it'll still be your problem and you'll owe them the $580. What's really needed is to troubleshoot the cause of the buzzing - either by you or by some qualified person you hire.
When you say that you're a "total novice," do you have pipe wrenches and know how to apply pipe dope? Do you have a feeling for the torque to pull up pipe connections? And the pilot tubing and thermocouple connections? If you've never worked on piping systems, maybe this isn't where to start.
I assume the valve buzzes only when it is open? (Otherwise, it's de-energized and should be totally silent.) It's possible that there is a poor electrical connection in the 24-V circuit to the valve, causing low voltage and the buzzing. Looking at the Peerless electrical diagram, the thermostat, hi-limit switch, and flame-roll-out switch are in series with the gas valve. Do you have a multimeter? With the burner on, check the voltage across the 24-V terminals of the gas valve - you should get above 20V a.c. If not, suspect a bad connection somewhere. If a solenoid is provided with too low a voltage, it is more likely to chatter.
Make sure the buzzing is coming from the gas valve and not somewhere else. When the solenoid is energized, they are usually fairly quiet - maybe a hum. The solenoid is operated by 60-Hz a.c., so there is bound to be some noise.
How old is the valve? They are usually trouble-free for quite some time, but anything is possible. I can't imagine any source of buzzing except the solenoid.
I don't know enough yet to say for sure that the gas valve needs to be replaced. If you hire somebody to replace the valve for $580, they will do that - and if the replacement valve still buzzes, it'll still be your problem and you'll owe them the $580. What's really needed is to troubleshoot the cause of the buzzing - either by you or by some qualified person you hire.
Last edited by Mike Speed 30; 01-17-10 at 03:32 PM.
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Originally Posted by Mike Speed 30
When you say that you're a "total novice," do you have pipe wrenches and know how to apply pipe dope?
Do you have a feeling for the torque to pull up pipe connections? And the pilot tubing and thermocouple connections? If you've never worked on piping systems, maybe this isn't where to start.

I assume the valve buzzes only when it is open? (Otherwise, it's de-energized and should be totally silent.) It's possible that there is a poor electrical connection in the 24-V circuit to the valve, causing low voltage and the buzzing.
Make sure the buzzing is coming from the gas valve and not somewhere else. When the solenoid is energized, they are usually fairly quiet - maybe a hum. The solenoid is operated by 60-Hz a.c., so there is bound to be some noise.
How old is the valve? They are usually trouble-free for quite some time, but anything is possible. I can't imagine any source of buzzing except the solenoid.
I don't know enough yet to say for sure that the gas valve needs to be replaced. If you hire somebody to replace the valve for $580, they will do that - and if the replacement valve still buzzes, it'll still be your problem and you'll owe them the $580. What's really needed is to troubleshoot the cause of the buzzing - either by you or by some qualified person you hire.
