Not getting heat- can this be miswiring with Zone Valve Controls?

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Old 01-31-10, 10:00 AM
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Not getting heat- can this be miswiring with Zone Valve Controls?

Late last winter I had a new boiler and hot water system installed. I'm in my first full winter with the new system and have noticed that the house is very slow to warm up. When the burner starts, it only runs for approximately 2 minutes and then shuts down for 15 minutes to half an hour.

The system installed consists of a Wiessman Vitorondo 100 boiler, Carlin EZ-1 oil burner, Tyco Zone Valve Contol 404 and Crown Mega Store Hot water heater. There are three heating zones in the house- Zone 1 is the radiant heat in the kitchen, Zone 2 is the forced hot air heat on the remainder of the first floor and Zone 3 is the upstairs forced hot air heat.

Yesterday it was below 10 degrees in the morning. I turned the thermostats up from 60 degrees at 9 am and at 2 am, it was still only 64 degrees inside. I checked thermostats and fully opened zone valves to try to trouble shoot the problem. I also made sure that there are no air blocks in the system by checking the pressure valve on top of the expansion tank.

Today to further trouble shoot the problem, I turned off individual thermostats and then checked the Zone Valve Control lights. What I found was that ZVC 1 is connected to Zone Valve 3, ZVC 3 is connected to Zone Valve 1 and Zone 2 is properly connected between ZVC and the zone valve.

Could this explain why the system is not functioning properly?
 
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Old 01-31-10, 10:21 AM
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it could be as the proper zone is not getting the hot water. Move those two thermostat wires around and see what happens.
 
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Old 01-31-10, 10:45 AM
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I also made sure that there are no air blocks in the system by checking the pressure valve on top of the expansion tank.
Hi Audrey, that pressure valve on top of the E.T. won't do anything for air blocks, etc... and hopefully you did not let any of the air out of the tank! If you did, you will very soon have another problem... your system pressure will go very high and your relief valve will spew...

So, please tell me that what you mean by 'checking' that valve is that you put a tire pressure gauge and checked the pressure without letting any of the air out of the tank!

While you are nosing around the boiler, take a look at the pressure/temperature gauge and tell us what the readings are.
 
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Old 01-31-10, 10:58 AM
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Readings

Temperature gauge reads 160 F, pressure 20 psi, well within normal ranges.
 
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Old 01-31-10, 11:07 AM
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Yes, but did you, or did you not, let the air out of the tank?
 
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Old 01-31-10, 11:18 AM
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Reply to NJ Trooper re: pressure

NJ Trooper:

I did not let pressure out of the tank. I checked to see if the pressure valve was tight or slightly open. It was slightly open, which as I understand it, is the proper setting. I did that this morning, after researching if I might have an air blockage. There have been no changes in the functionality/readings of the heating system since then.
 
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Old 01-31-10, 11:26 AM
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OK good... I think I might have misunderstood which valve you were referring to... the valve on the EXPANSION TANK itself is only used for setting the proper air charge in the tank, while there is another valve on the AUTOMATIC AIR VENT... which is a small brass can on top of the air scoop... and this one is where the air that gets trapped in the scoop is released...
 
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Old 01-31-10, 11:29 AM
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Your description of the problem COULD be miswiring... but did the system work properly last winter?

If so, then I might think that your circulating pump isn't working, or you do in fact have some air trapped out in the heating loops.

Has it been working OK so far this winter? and this is a brand new development?
 
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Old 01-31-10, 11:34 AM
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Today to further trouble shoot the problem, I turned off individual thermostats and then checked the Zone Valve Control lights. What I found was that ZVC 1 is connected to Zone Valve 3, ZVC 3 is connected to Zone Valve 1 and Zone 2 is properly connected between ZVC and the zone valve.
Let's talk about this a bit...

What is important here is that the correct THERMOSTAT is controlling the correct VALVE... the actual numbers are more or less irrelevant in a way...

For example, thermostat for upstairs air handler must control the zone valve on the pipe that leads to that air handler...

Are the air handlers blowing cool air?
 
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Old 01-31-10, 11:48 AM
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Answers (?) for NJ Trooper

??? I don't understand "are the air handlers blowing cool air"? I have radiators and radiant heat. How do I tell if the air handlers are blowing cool air?

As far as the system working properly last year, it was installed at the tail end of February, and the ZVC wiring was incorrect initially with no heat, so I had a call back to correct the problem. Since weather was mild from there until late December, I did not notice any problems. I talked to someone about 6 weeks ago regarding how long it takes for a house to warm back up after night time temperatures (I set the thermostats down to 60 at night for sleeping and then to 68 when coming home from work). Because it has been so mild until mid December, I did not notice a problem, especially with a southern exposure that warms the downstairs on sunny days. On really sunny days, I often open the front door to let solar heat in through the storm door.

With the blasts of cold weather that we have been experiencing, it does take hours for rooms to warm up to the set temperature, if they hit that level at all. This did not happen with the old furnace and thus is not due to poor insulation or drafts.
 
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Old 01-31-10, 12:46 PM
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You said:

Zone 2 is the forced hot air heat on the remainder of the first floor and Zone 3 is the upstairs forced hot air heat.
and then you said:

I have radiators and radiant heat.
So I say, which is it?

Do you have air handlers that blow forced hot air?

Or do you have radiators?

I'm confused because I'm hearing conflicting info...

=====================

I'm not real familiar with the Veissmann products... and I'm thinking that there may be controls on the unit that need adjusting...

Where's our Veissmann specialists when we need them?
 
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Old 01-31-10, 01:02 PM
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Answer re: conflicting info

NJ Trooper:

I have radiators and radiant heated floors in the kitchen.

If I understand things correctly, I think you are right about the Viessman, in that the circulator pump does not seem to be working properly. About three hours ago, I turned up the thermostat on Zone 2, the one zone that appears to be wired correctly, to 80 degrees to test the system. While the boiler cycles on and off for a longer period of time, the temperature is only registering 72 on the thermostat. The lights on the ZVC for this zone are lit for both thermostat and zone valve. The lights are off for the other 2 zones.

As an aside note, today is a bright and sunny day. I have new low E argon windows and adequate insulation.
 
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Old 01-31-10, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Audrey_M View Post

With the blasts of cold weather that we have been experiencing, it does take hours for rooms to warm up to the set temperature, if they hit that level at all. This did not happen with the old furnace and thus is not due to poor insulation or drafts.
I don't know if you don't have other issue to contend with, but it sounds like your new boiler has less output than your previous one. That's good, but you will find that recovering from a deep setback will take much much longer. I experienced the same thing in my home. The last 1 1/2 months I have been maintaining the same temperature day and night. The house feels more comfortable and it looks like I am using less energy in the process. You may want to try running with out the setback and see how things work out.
 
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Old 01-31-10, 01:33 PM
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I tried to find information on your system on line and the Veissmann site doesn't have the installation and operation manuals available for download... so I'm helpless...

You should be able to tell if the circulator is running or not...

Your boiler has a 'control unit' under that red cover on top. This control unit needs to be properly set up in order for the system to function properly... there are parameters that need adjusting for each home... no two obviously are alike... this might be your problem... the contractors might not have taken the time to set up the parameters.

Did the installers leave the manuals for you?

Looking at their website, they only mention that the boilers are available with their own burner assemblies... yet you say that you have a Carlin burner? Wonder why the website doesn't mention a choice of burner...

[EDIT: I was looking at the European website, the US website has a bit more info and does show various burner choices... but only Beckett and Riello... no Carlin listed on their site?]
 

Last edited by NJT; 01-31-10 at 02:17 PM.
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