I am looking for your advice in picking the right water storage tank. I am replacing my current 30 year old Burnham Oil Boiler with Energy Kinetics System 2000 boiler. Part of the System 2000 complete setup is a stainless steel water tank. My contractor is recommending that instead of going with stainless slteel (lifetime warranty tank), to go with a Energy Kinetics regular steel tank. The reasoning behind is that steel tank provides better protection due to anode rode. He is stating that stainless steel will last forever but anything that attached it, won't (will last only 3-5 years) because of no adequate protection provided iside the tank. Again, he says if I change the rode every 2-3 years, the tank will last more than 10 years. What do you think? What is your advice? There is no price difference,so the cost is the same. Thank you for your help!

Hello, I have 3 zones (1 for each floor). Everything worked fine up until 3 days ago. The heating for the top and basement floors (zones 1 & 3) work fine. The problem is, the valve for zone 2 is always open and on, and even though there is a programmable thermostat calling for a 68 degrees temperature, for the past 3 days the temperature on the main floor (zone 2) has been up around 74 or 75 degrees, regardless of what the thermostat on that floor is set to. It mysteriously gets as low as 71 degrees, but all the time the programmable thermostat is set between 60 degrees and 68 degrees. For what it’s worth, when I installed the programmable thermostat 10 years ago, an HVAC person had to come over to install some type of relay (?) in between the new programmable thermostat and the zone valve in order for the programmable thermostat to work. I see this device connects to terminal #1. I only mention this because it is another mechanical/electrical device that is in the mix on this zone only (zone’s 1 and 3 are the legacy style thermostats and are not programmable). Troubleshooting: ------------------ 1) I wanted to make sure it wasn’t the I disconnected the thermostat for this zone 2, so the red and white wires are dangling open in the thermostat location, not connected to anything… and the problem persists. 2) I called a local HVAC person who came over and said it was the zone valve and replaced it. He changed the zone valve for this faulty zone 2, and the problem persists. He said the zone valve is still malfunctioning and should be replaced anyway, so he left me with a $225 bill and nothing resolved. He helped set me up with an appointment with someone more electrically knowledgeable about HVAC and they are coming over tomorrow. I don’t want to spend another $200 and not know what is really wrong… Lastly, when the motor is running, when I disconnected terminal 3 the motor stops. Don’t know if that is significant but figured I would add it in. Any ideas here? Thank you!