Planning for a winter replumb


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Old 05-08-10, 12:24 AM
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Planning for a winter replumb

So here's my furnace room, one burrt out permenantly stuck open zone valve. notice the fudged up plumbing. there are three zones
A-one feedind a tiny room next to this one
B-one feeding the upstairs
C-one feeding the rest of the basement two seporte loops

the gate valves in the ceiling to the right of the furnace are how we currently control zone A and B.

The ball valves next to the ceiling to the right of the furnace are for the 2 loops in the basement



So my list of plans

re plumb the basement so it's all on one zone and have another zone for up stairs, Flip the expansion tank so it is sitting in the proper orientation. Install new zone valves and add an electric water heater so in the summer when we dont need heat i'm not burning oil.


Here are pan photos from left to right.








 
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Old 05-09-10, 12:13 AM
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SO, I need help making a diagram on how to run the pipe's

Any one?
 
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Old 05-09-10, 06:55 AM
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Any good, standard install diagram will do.

Try this one:
http://www.usboiler.burnham.com/pdf/...I&O%201-10.pdf

using Fig 18A (zoning with circulators) or Fig18B (zoning with valves)

Lay it out like it looks. Try to keep 8 pipe diameters of straight pipe into and out of circulator(s).

You've got plenty of wall space between where the expansion tank is currently and those domestic (?) drains on the wall to the right.

I'd do the whole thing at standing height. Use uni-strut screwed to the studs to provide points of attachment, and/or a piece of 3/4" plywood furred out from the wall a bit (like with 3/4" furring strips). That will also give you a good place to mount a zone control (e.g., Taco ZVC-EXP) and an outdoor reset control (e.g., Taco PC700).

If you're tight for space, use a Spirovent, B&G EAS, Taco 4900, or similar air removal device instead of a standard air scoop. That avoids the need for 18" of straight inlet pipe as shown in those diagrams (but it's still nice to have whatever length of straight pipe you can have on the inlet side).

Pay attention to providing clearances for opening and cleaning the boiler. The more room for that, the better.
 
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Old 05-09-10, 08:31 AM
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Unrelated possible health/safety concern...

What on earth is that shop vac hose connected to that P-trap on the DWV piping? What happens if there's a drain blockage? What is keeping that P-trap 'wet' ?
 
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Old 05-09-10, 01:13 PM
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Don't know I just bought the house. I figured thats where the washer was supposed to go the dryer is on the other wall. I will be pulling the ceiling soon. Since this is where I will have the most valves, possible failure points, I had just assume keep it open. PLus I'll be pulling some dedicated power lines for freezer,.....

I'll be posting ack once i have my diagram drawn for critique.
 
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Old 05-09-10, 05:09 PM
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and while we're on safety, where exactly does the flue pipe go? what's that big square the round pipe enters?
 
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Old 05-09-10, 07:15 PM
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It a new insulated chimney that goes all the way through to the attic and out the roof, Not to worry it is up to standard code the only part of it is not is the uninsulated part that runs down to the boiler. Next week the lower portion will be wrapped with the proper insulator all the way down to the boiler.
 
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Old 05-10-10, 03:03 PM
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In general, the distance from the flue pipe to combustibles is 18". I don't know about 'wrapping it with the proper material'... what material would that be?

There are two ways that I know of to decrease the distance... use a double wall flue connector. I think they call this "Type B" pipe. These can go down to 6" clearance IIRC. If you use the double wall, you want to use the stuff from the same manufacture of the chimney. That way you get the proper interface connectors to mate the chimney to the double wall. This is the way I would go...

The other way is to install radiation shields, sheets of metal, with a 1" clearance behind them to the combustible surface.

In either case, a check with your local code officials will tell you what you can/can't or should/shouldn't do.
 
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Old 05-12-10, 11:31 PM
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OK so exhaust system aside

Ive been doing more reading and I am wondering if the exsternal electric water heater is the better way to go or if we should spring for the indirect water heater... price difference is $2000(more for the indirect.)

If im thinking correctly the boiler will still be heating the water the electric tank is just storage or their to kick in should the temp of the water drop below the water heater's set point.
How long will the water heater R-16 with a water heater blanket hold the water above 130F before the electric water heater has to turn on to reheat it?

I live in Alaska so the furnace will run pretty much year round.

we will be adding and outdoor reset and three zone valves and be forced to re plumb whats already there

I know I have lots more reading to do... any good links you guys can point me to regarding wiring, outdoor resets, ....

Thanks,
GG
First time home owner long time DIY'er
 
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Old 05-13-10, 03:16 AM
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Look at the Taco wiring guides for their ZVC and instructions for outdoor resets.

More technical, try the tekmar technical essays at tekmarcontrols.com.

An indirect is a very efficient way to heat hot water. Depending on your electric rates and electric tank longevity, indirect is cheaper over the long haul than an electric (or two, or three...).

For indirects, check out the Triangle Tube Smart series, the HTProducts SuperStor Ultra, Crown Megastor.
 
 

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