Noisy impeller


  #41  
Old 03-08-12, 03:14 PM
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I don't know what that is... where do the wires on the other end go?
 
  #42  
Old 03-08-12, 03:24 PM
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By the way...

Honeywell calls the 1265 a FUNCTIONAL replacement for the 1166.

It is NOT a 'DIRECT' replacement, meaning that all the connections aren't in exactly the same spot, or it may have a jumper plug installed in a plug on the board for the vent damper, etc... it WILL work, but is not EXACT, DIRECT replacement.

In some cases, there is no longer a SCREW terminal for the burner connection, it may be replaced with a push on connector which would require adding a terminal to an existing wire, stuff like that... generally easy things to do, but you should be aware that you may (or may not) be able to just 'plug and play'.

I don't believe that the photo of the 8148E in the PDF you posted link to is of the -1265. The 1265 has the vent damper plug. This photo is a 1265

image courtesy monstermarketplace.com

image not showing, I guess monstermarketplace didn't want some free advertising!
no... looks like the website is up for sale...
 

Last edited by NJT; 03-09-12 at 03:08 PM.
  #43  
Old 03-08-12, 04:10 PM
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NJ,

Thank you for replying (and fixing my posted image). You have been a tremendous help. Thanks for posting the picture and straightening me out regard the brochure I linked to. I can handle connectors and such. I would just like to get an aquastat that has similarly labeled connection points to the one I currently have.

The wires out the back of the plastic connector go through the skinny opening in the circuit board near the bottom. Unfortunately I do not know what they connect to. Should I see if I can take the circuit board out of the case?

I don't believe I have a vent damper as I see no motors or actuators mounted on the hood. Could the yellow jumper in my picture be a bypass for not having a vent damper? With this in mind, further research says that a replacement for the L8148E1166 without a vent damper is the L8148J1009. What I don't like about that model is that it only has a 8 degree differential.

I called Honeywell and spoke with a "technician". He was absolutely no help at all.

I found a picture (same website as you did) of the L8148J1009. It looks nearly the same except yours has the plastic connector with the green jumper wire. I wonder, since this is the only visual difference, if that is removed when a vent damper is plugged in to the connector. Would you happen to know?

Thanks again for all the help. I truly appreciate it.

BWSwede
 
  #44  
Old 03-08-12, 04:32 PM
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Question for NJT,
Resident wiring ...umm
Is it possible the white and red wires on the lower right side are interfering with the movement of the solenoid/relay?

Petter

 
  #45  
Old 03-09-12, 03:03 PM
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Is it possible the white and red wires on the lower right side are interfering with the movement of the solenoid/relay?
Hard to tell if they are or not... parallax can be twicky, but if they ARE touching, they should be moved away.
 
  #46  
Old 03-09-12, 03:16 PM
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Should I see if I can take the circuit board out of the case?
Not until you are certain that it is 'expendable', i.e. you have another in hand.

further research says that a replacement for the L8148E1166 without a vent damper is the L8148J1009. What I don't like about that model is that it only has a 8 degree differential.
By what authority? Honeywell calls for the 1265... they be like the boss.

I called Honeywell and spoke with a "technician". He was absolutely no help at all.
Well... maybe not the boss... but I'm not at all surprised by this. Probably some HS kid with an after school job getting rid of people calling on the phone.

I wonder, since this is the only visual difference, if that is removed when a vent damper is plugged in to the connector. Would you happen to know?
Yes, you would leave the jumper plug in place if not using the vent damper. The damper would plug in to that connector if used. Once a damper is plugged in, the aquastat will no longer function if the damper is removed and the jumper plug re-inserted. That is an intentional safety feature.

Could the yellow jumper in my picture be a bypass for not having a vent damper?
Can't know, don't like to guess... but if you twisted my arm (OUCH! OK! OK!) I would guess that someone was 'experimenting' at some point in time.
 
  #47  
Old 03-10-12, 09:25 AM
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Thanks guys,

I checked the questionable wires and they do not touch the solenoid.

Once my 0-30 psi guage arrives from an online order (even the local plumbing house didn't carry them) and I can set it up to test the pressure, and everything is set fine, I think I'll order the 1265. As it is now I leave the boiler shut off when I am not home. Even though it has ran fine the last couple of days I just don't trust it. There is nothing much scarier to me in home heating than a run-a-way boiler.

Thanks again everyone for all the help.

BWSwede
 
  #48  
Old 03-10-12, 09:34 AM
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That's why some AHJ's now are adopting a 'secondary high limit' control which wires in series with the primary operating control. These usually have a manual pushbutton reset. If the primary sticks, the secondary will shut it down and leave it off until attended to.
 
 

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