Low water cutoff question.
#1
07-15-10, 01:40 PM
Low water cutoff question.
Hi our Dunkirk boiler stopped working last Thurs, a tech came out and said it was a bad aquastat. His estimate was at high end of what we could pay. After he installed aquastat boiler still didn't work. He then said he thinks the low water cutoff and a transformer are bad. He hooked up transformer and it blew up on him. He came up later and said he got the hot water zone working but the other zones didn't work. He didn't have another transformer or a low water cutoff switch on truck so he left them off. He said someone from office would call about fixing them. Is it necessary to have such a shutoff, the owner said it was not dangerous without one. Now they want an extra $300 over original estimate to hook up rest of zones but have no intention of fixing shutoff. I haven't paid anything yet and don't think I should till it is fixed correctly and at original price. Pics are how he left boiler. Thanks for any help.
Doughttp://www.shutterfly.com/lightbox/v...2f2841c4d4a52ehttp://www.shutterfly.com/lightbox/v...2f2841c4d4a52e
Doughttp://www.shutterfly.com/lightbox/v...2f2841c4d4a52ehttp://www.shutterfly.com/lightbox/v...2f2841c4d4a52e
#2
07-15-10, 03:20 PM
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Can't see your pix because a password is required.
That repairman evidently doesn't know how to troubleshoot with a voltmeter. That would have pinpointed the device that was interrupting the 24-V control voltage to the fuel valve.
What was his quote for replacing the aquastat (that evidently didn't need replacing)?
I'm pretty mean, but here is what I would tell them to do: 1. reinstall the original aquastat, 2. Replace the xfmr that "blew up," 3. Get out of my house and don't bother to send me a bill. Since I'm a DIYer, I would then fix the whole shebang myself - so you're slightly more vulnerable. But getting the LWC replaced, if indeed that is the problem, is a simple job.
I assume that plumbers are licensed in New York?
Many jursidictions and current codes require boilers to have a low-water cutoff, but many older boilers have operated for decades without one. They are a good idea. Presumably, the repairman jumpered around the LWC's electrical contacts, but left the old one still screwed into the port.
That repairman evidently doesn't know how to troubleshoot with a voltmeter. That would have pinpointed the device that was interrupting the 24-V control voltage to the fuel valve.
What was his quote for replacing the aquastat (that evidently didn't need replacing)?
I'm pretty mean, but here is what I would tell them to do: 1. reinstall the original aquastat, 2. Replace the xfmr that "blew up," 3. Get out of my house and don't bother to send me a bill. Since I'm a DIYer, I would then fix the whole shebang myself - so you're slightly more vulnerable. But getting the LWC replaced, if indeed that is the problem, is a simple job.
I assume that plumbers are licensed in New York?
Many jursidictions and current codes require boilers to have a low-water cutoff, but many older boilers have operated for decades without one. They are a good idea. Presumably, the repairman jumpered around the LWC's electrical contacts, but left the old one still screwed into the port.
#3
07-15-10, 03:30 PM
Sorry about pics, these should work. http://boiler127.shutterfly.com/
I would rather not have them back in my house, just wanted to make sure LWC was necessary. I knew it was as I asked 2 plumbers on the house I am working on just to make sure. I can fix it, not worried about doing it, just needed it done quickly since it makes the hot water. Getting a tankless installed now so I will have rest of summer to repair once that is in. I have no intention of paying the $330 for the aquastat or the $90 service call, they screwed up they can eat it. Just wanted a second opinion before I made up mind.
Thanks
I would rather not have them back in my house, just wanted to make sure LWC was necessary. I knew it was as I asked 2 plumbers on the house I am working on just to make sure. I can fix it, not worried about doing it, just needed it done quickly since it makes the hot water. Getting a tankless installed now so I will have rest of summer to repair once that is in. I have no intention of paying the $330 for the aquastat or the $90 service call, they screwed up they can eat it. Just wanted a second opinion before I made up mind.
Thanks
#4
07-15-10, 04:09 PM
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OK, I saw your pix. The LWC appears to be a " RB-24E Guard Dog" manufactured by McDonnell & Miller (a subsidiary of Bell & Gossett). Those LWC's are pretty reliable, so check yours with an ohmmeter. But, I think I see some wirenuts used to jumper the LWC, so presumably that was the problem.
I would replace it with the same model. Installation will be a snap, but you may have to drain your system, unless you have quick hands.
$90 for a service call doesn't shock me (although it might in my rural area). But $330 for a replacement aquastat is hi-way robbery unless it's something really fancy.
I would be very interested to know the model of the original (and/or replacement) aquastat. Here is a menu, along with prices: Honeywell Aquastats , Aquastats , L4006 Honeywell Aquastats , Honeywell Aquastats for Sale - PexSupply.com
I would replace it with the same model. Installation will be a snap, but you may have to drain your system, unless you have quick hands.
$90 for a service call doesn't shock me (although it might in my rural area). But $330 for a replacement aquastat is hi-way robbery unless it's something really fancy.
I would be very interested to know the model of the original (and/or replacement) aquastat. Here is a menu, along with prices: Honeywell Aquastats , Aquastats , L4006 Honeywell Aquastats , Honeywell Aquastats for Sale - PexSupply.com
#6
07-15-10, 05:24 PM
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