Temporarily removing cast iron radiator


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Old 07-20-10, 07:54 AM
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Temporarily removing cast iron radiator

I am doing a remodel and need to temporarily remove a cast iron radiator so that the wall behind it can be insulated and drywall installed.

I feel confident doing most plumbing type jobs around the house but i thought i would post some pictures and make sure that i am going about this the right way. I really do not want to damage anything.

I do not think i will have any trouble with the supply end union joint but i am concerned with the return end. It seems that turning the connection ccw will just make the nipple turn tighter into the 90 degree elbow.

It is a gas heated hot water system.

Also is turning the water supply off to this radiator good enough or do i have to drain the entire sytem before starting? It is the height of summer here so i am not worried about the sytem being needed during the remodel.

Thank you in advance for any advice.

radiator_1 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

radiator_2 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

radiator_3 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!





 
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Old 07-20-10, 09:22 AM
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To disconnect the left-hand end of the radiator, you'll need to try to find a union someplace downstream - if there is a basement under the floor, look there.

Otherwise, you can cut the horizontal nipple with a Sawzall and install a union and two close nipples there. Measure first to make sure you have room for a union and two close nipples.

While you're at it, I would replace the angle valve.

Good luck!
 
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Old 07-20-10, 08:37 PM
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Quite often the rads either have left/ right nipples in them or the have a left right nipple and they use a left right coupling in them under the floor.

You have to look closely at the threads, you should see that the nipple is a left / right nipple.

Cutting the nipple should not be required
 
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Old 07-21-10, 01:29 PM
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I think there has to be both a L-R nipple and a L-R coupling right next to each other.

But, yes, look beneath the floor if it's accessible.
 
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Old 07-21-10, 06:02 PM
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Most CI rads ( the ones feed on only one end) have a right handed female thread and a left hand female thread.

Therefore, if the rad feeds at one end only then you should not need a LR coupling.
Nothing written in stone of course.
 
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Old 08-31-10, 06:48 PM
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Same exact question and project

I know I am new here however, this was the best post I found that was started on the exact same topic and question I had.

I need to do the same thing as the original poster. Remove a upstairs hot water radiator for remodeling. I would like to do this myself and need to understand if I must drain the entire system first?

That being said. I have one valve on the right side of the radiator and nothing on the left.

Any advise on the above or do I need to drain the entire system first?

I appreciate the advice for a newbie...in advance.
 
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Old 08-31-10, 07:49 PM
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If the rad you need to remove happens to be at the highest point in the system, you won't need to drain much at all... you only need to drain just enough water to drop the water in the system below the level you will be working at.
 
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Old 09-01-10, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by NJ Trooper View Post
If the rad you need to remove happens to be at the highest point in the system, you won't need to drain much at all... you only need to drain just enough water to drop the water in the system below the level you will be working at.
Thank you very much for the quick response.
 
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Old 09-16-10, 10:10 PM
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Whether or not you drain the system, make sure you have something to plug the two ends of the rad when you disconnect it. A rag and tie on a plastic bag on each end will do it. There will be water left in the rad and you will end up tipping the rad and pouring water all over. DAMHIKT.
 
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Old 09-17-10, 04:59 AM
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Typically we will drain the system until no water comes out the bleeder of the rad below the floor your working on.

Good suggestion to cover the exposed rad pipes both at the floor and at the rad. Very black water will exist in the rad, and it stains, and stains well what ever it gets on.

Remember to put new left - right nipples and valve on when it's off. Use pipe dope / teflon tape etc to lubricate and seal the threads.
 
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Old 09-21-10, 12:10 PM
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Thanks everyone. I was able to disconnect the radiator with little to no water being spilled. In 2 weeks, I hope to have it connected again.

I doubt the new color of the room will match the old color on it.

Unless there are any quick tips, I may have to do some searching to understand how to remove the paint or paint over the existing.


Also - Not sure what is meant by, replacing the nipples. By valve, do you mean the bleeder valve?

Thanks once again.
 
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Old 09-21-10, 03:28 PM
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Painting a radiator

Best way I've found to paint a cast iron radiator: First, get it clean. One of those flexible brushes for cleaning lint out of dryers does a really good job getting between all the sections. Once it's clean, I use Kilz spray paint to prime the rad. This is best done outside or with all the windows open. The Kilz does a good job covering any rust or water stains. Next use one of those compressed air paint sprayers that you can get at home depot or a paint store to spray inside the sections. (Can't remember who makes them, but it's a small bottle that screws onto a charged air bottle that has a sprayer like you see on a can of spray paint. Paint may need to be thinned; check the directions). Getting it from both sides makes it easier to get complete coverage. Finally I paint the outside with a brush, at the same time catching any drips that may have occurred from too much spray. It's better to do multiple thin coats of spray, and you may need more than one of the compressed air cans to finish, depending on the size of the rad.
 
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Old 09-21-10, 04:50 PM
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Do not use metallic paint. It will reduce the radiation output.
 
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Old 09-22-10, 02:39 PM
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I'm starting to think that a nice looking radiator cover might be the best look. Also being a 3 year olds bedroom, I can put cushion around the corners. Any obvious down side to this way?
 
 

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