Water Heater Zone Problem
#41
09-07-10, 03:16 PM
naaah, it's just life is all...
I don't know that I'd mess around with tape on the shaft, that just 'feels' like a waste of time to me.
Go right for the bending the tab...
I don't know that I'd mess around with tape on the shaft, that just 'feels' like a waste of time to me.
Go right for the bending the tab...
#42
09-10-10, 05:12 AM
I tried bending the tab - not so much. It's deceivingly stout for such a small part. I reached in with a pair of regular needle nose, and then a vise-grip needle nose - it's kinda difficult to get a good grab at it. The only other option would be to take the motor off, then remove the rest of the housing that covers the lever gear, springs, etc. - which I'd rather not do.
Instead, I glued a small piece of hard rubber on to the lever where it would push against the endswitch. When I flipped on the power, I noticed something odd:
The lever rotates up towards the endswitch...then stops.
I switched the power off, then on again - and the lever rotated further - but still not enough to depress the endswitch.
Flipped it off and on again - this time it hardly rotated at all.
Flipped it off and on for a 4th time - this time it rotated almost all the way up, but still not enough.
It seems the lever rotates a different amount each time.
I'm wondering if this motor has heated up so many times, that it's burnt out, and doesn't have the "umph" anymore. I know the motor's are fairly cheap, so I may try changing it.
Instead, I glued a small piece of hard rubber on to the lever where it would push against the endswitch. When I flipped on the power, I noticed something odd:
The lever rotates up towards the endswitch...then stops.
I switched the power off, then on again - and the lever rotated further - but still not enough to depress the endswitch.
Flipped it off and on again - this time it hardly rotated at all.
Flipped it off and on for a 4th time - this time it rotated almost all the way up, but still not enough.
It seems the lever rotates a different amount each time.
I'm wondering if this motor has heated up so many times, that it's burnt out, and doesn't have the "umph" anymore. I know the motor's are fairly cheap, so I may try changing it.
#43
09-10-10, 09:35 AM
Hey Trooper - in another thread about zone valves (from this past January), there was mention of removing the return spring.
Just wondering, is the mechanism powered "closed" as well as "open"... or is it the spring alone that pulls it closed?
Just wondering it it would be worth it to try removing the spring?
Just wondering, is the mechanism powered "closed" as well as "open"... or is it the spring alone that pulls it closed?
Just wondering it it would be worth it to try removing the spring?
#44
09-10-10, 03:54 PM
Well, I stopped on the way home and grabbed a new motor. Just put it on and all appears well - rotated up and pushed endswitched...we'll see.
I answered my own question about removing the spring: won't work. The motor is only powered in one direction (open). When power is removed...it does nothing. Now that I think about, it should have been obvious.
Also, in case anyone cares - I tried powering the motor before intalling it, just to see what it does. When power is applied, the motor will turn and turn and turn continuously, until it meets some resistance (valve reaches fully open and it hits the endswitch).
I answered my own question about removing the spring: won't work. The motor is only powered in one direction (open). When power is removed...it does nothing. Now that I think about, it should have been obvious.
Also, in case anyone cares - I tried powering the motor before intalling it, just to see what it does. When power is applied, the motor will turn and turn and turn continuously, until it meets some resistance (valve reaches fully open and it hits the endswitch).
#45
09-11-10, 05:01 AM
OK...raise your hand if your really tired of this thread and desparately want to see it closed.
New motor didn't work - does the same as the old one.
My thinking now is that the inside of the valve is gooked up enough (thanks to our notoriously crappy water) that it's creating too much resistance for the motor to overcome.
Although I could probably manage it myself, I'm going to have a pro come over and pop open the valve.
Don't know what else to do...
New motor didn't work - does the same as the old one.
My thinking now is that the inside of the valve is gooked up enough (thanks to our notoriously crappy water) that it's creating too much resistance for the motor to overcome.
Although I could probably manage it myself, I'm going to have a pro come over and pop open the valve.
Don't know what else to do...
#47
09-12-10, 03:52 PM
Will do. I'll reach out to him tomorrow morning. Unfortunately, I don't have off till Weds, and I'd kinda like to be here when he is, so may not have any update till then.
Since there was nothing else I could do today, I pulled the power head off, to check again how difficult it is to turn the valve stem. Contrary to my earlier post (and maybe 'cause I'm focusing more on it) - it's feels very hard to turn...and much, much more difficult than the brand new one I have. Looking around the "seam" between the 2 halves of the valve body, there's quite a bit of hard-water deposit all around the seam (lime, calcium?). I imagine it looks that way inside?
Anyway, I sprayed all around the stem with Fluid Film (best lubricant known to man). Not sure if it's wishful thinking, but I think it turns a little easier now - I was able to turn it with my fingers.
Put the power head back on, and it tripped the endswitch fine.
We'll see if I get another cold shower in the morning!
Since there was nothing else I could do today, I pulled the power head off, to check again how difficult it is to turn the valve stem. Contrary to my earlier post (and maybe 'cause I'm focusing more on it) - it's feels very hard to turn...and much, much more difficult than the brand new one I have. Looking around the "seam" between the 2 halves of the valve body, there's quite a bit of hard-water deposit all around the seam (lime, calcium?). I imagine it looks that way inside?
Anyway, I sprayed all around the stem with Fluid Film (best lubricant known to man). Not sure if it's wishful thinking, but I think it turns a little easier now - I was able to turn it with my fingers.
Put the power head back on, and it tripped the endswitch fine.
We'll see if I get another cold shower in the morning!
