Basement Heating (H/W Baseboards)


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Old 08-20-10, 12:19 PM
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Basement Heating (H/W Baseboards)

I'm in the final stages of refinishing my basement. I'm trying to determine how much baseboard I need for the room. I think I should be using a mulipler of 25-35 BTUs per sqft but not too sure.

The finished space is 450 sqft. I installed 2" thick foam boards on 2 outside walls, the other two walls are adjacent to unfinshed areas in the basement. All walls are insulated with R11 fiberglass. I have 3 (1x3) double pane windows. I plan on running 'Slantfin 15' with a 580 BTU/ft rating.

At 25 BTUs per sqft - 20' baseboard
At 35 BTUs per sqft - 27' baseboard

What do you suggest? I know I need to do a heat loss calc but too confusing . I'm curious to hear what others did.
 
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Old 08-20-10, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonnewyork View Post
What do you suggest? I know I need to do a heat loss calc but too confusing . I'm curious to hear what others did.
Well,here's what I did: I ran a heat loss calculation for my basement. I have no idea where you live, whether you have a boiler in the basement and hot-water pipes running in your basement overhead, and how much exterior basement wall is exposed to weather, etc., etc.
 

Last edited by Mike Speed 30; 08-20-10 at 04:30 PM.
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Old 08-20-10, 07:14 PM
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I live in the New York City area. My boiler is in the basement and hot-water pipes running overhead. About 2 feet of exterior basement walls are exposed to the weather, the other 5 feet is below grade. I doesn't really go below 32F here in the winter so looking at a max temp difference of 40F.

Out of curiosity, how many BTUs/sqft did you end up using?
 
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Old 08-21-10, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by jasonnewyork View Post
Out of curiosity, how many BTUs/sqft did you end up using?
Calculated heat loss: 20,057 Btu/hr. Area: 46'x30' = 1380 sq ft.

That comes out to 14.5 Btu/hr ft^2.

Indoor design temp = 70 deg F, outdoor design temp = -10 deg F.

My basement has very little insulation compared to yours.

If you do a heat loss calculation, I think you'll understand that estimating heat loss based on sq feet is not a reasonable approach. In my case, there is zero heat loss from the basement ceiling and negligible heat loss from the basement floor. So, for my basement, square feet matters not a all, zilch, nada.

My first reaction to your numbers was that you're way high - you'll roast. It's conceivable that you may need no heat at all, but only a heat-loss calc will tell you. What temp does your basement get to now?
 

Last edited by Mike Speed 30; 08-21-10 at 09:25 AM.
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Old 08-22-10, 09:21 AM
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baseboard heating

Jason-
The design temp for LI is ethier 10 or 0 deg f depending on what chart you use.
Sid
 
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Old 08-23-10, 05:07 AM
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On the coldet days, when it's 20F outside, my basement gets 46-47F.
 
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Old 08-23-10, 08:49 AM
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I just installed the baseboards this weekend. I probably overkilled them a bit so will see this winter. I figure I can always cut out a section of heating element and repalce with copper tubing if the basement gets too hot. I noted what I did below.

Main Room - 29' baseboard
450sqft, fully insulated walls with R11 fiberglass and 2" foam boards on two of the outside walls. Remainging 2 walls adjacent to unfinshed bolier and laundry rooms. Ceiling has drop ceiling tiles with R2 rating. 3 double pane windows and staircase to 1st floor is open all the time w/o a door.

Laundry Room - 6' baseboard
130sqft, 2 out of 4 walls insulated R11 adjacent to main room. Other 2 walls are outside concrete foundation. 2 double pane windows.

Boiler room - 5' baseboard
150sqft, 3 out of 4 walls are outside concrete foundation and one wall is R11 insulated, adjacent to main room. One double pane window. The boiler is 110K BTU 85% eff, gas. Also a 40 gal gas water heater.

Basement is mostly below grade, only 2 ft above grade. Windows are double pane 12 x 30 sliders.
 
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Old 08-23-10, 03:11 PM
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My guess is that you are gonna find it too much heat... just a guess of course.

Having an open door for heat to rise might help some...

Rather than cutting sections out though, get a roll of heavy duty aluminum foil, pop the covers and wrap the fin sections to cut off the air flow, then close the dampers. In fact, first try just closing the dampers! It's a whole helluva lot easier and achieves the same goal.
 
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Old 08-24-10, 08:15 AM
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I will let you know what happens in the winter. If it's too hot, any of the methods discussed below will work.

I'm in a jam right now, my son was born one month premature and need to finsh this project ASAP. Heat is the last thing before I paint and are done. I appreciate your concerns about heat loss calc but under the gun, so to speak.

What's funny was I had 2 plumbers come in for estimates and they both said 40' for all finished spaces, this is what I'm at right now.
 
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Old 08-24-10, 03:15 PM
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Jason, congrats on the new baby, and good luck!

It's better to have more radiation than you need... I guess... cuz then it's an easy matter to cover it up, but having less could be a problem. I'm thinking that the 'plumbers' were just gonna run it all around the outside walls, no matter how much you actually needed, and that's commonly done... because they often don't know nuthin' about heat loss, etc... but whatever, it's in... now all you need is a Roll of Wreynold's Rap... and diapers... and formula... and...
 
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Old 08-24-10, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by NJ Trooper View Post
I'm thinking that the 'plumbers' were just gonna run it all around the outside walls, no matter how much you actually needed, and that's commonly done...
I think that was the usual practice, even in the old days. Our nearly 60-yr-old house has cast-iron baseboards along all the outside walls. And the system works fine - although the upstairs bedrooms have throttling valves to adjust the flow, which is nice.

But, a basement really doesn't have full floor-to-ceiling exterior walls (it's a bit like those earth-homes that some hippies have built) - and thus the difference. Our 46' x 30' basement has 18' of baseboard, plus an old-fashioned 24" x 30" radiator which I've shut off. (Luckily, it had a shut-off valve.)
 
 

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