Argo Arm-4P Relay box
#1
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Argo Arm-4P Relay box
Have a Argo ARM-4P relay set for cold start Hooked up with Honeywell Aquastat L8148E want to set it to hot start any help Thank You
#2
Can you tell us why you want to change to warm start? It's a huge waste of fuel... but maybe you have a good reason?
There's nothing on the Argo panel that is going to let you change to warm start, that's a function of the aquastat. You would have to lose the 8148 and replace with a 'triple' aquastat.
But again, why ?
There's nothing on the Argo panel that is going to let you change to warm start, that's a function of the aquastat. You would have to lose the 8148 and replace with a 'triple' aquastat.
But again, why ?
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runing low on hot water
With the showers at all different times i am running out of hot water with my indirect water tank because the boiler is cold when the indirect calls for water
The Argo has ZC and ZR to hook up to the aquastat i have nothing i can find
Thank You for your help
The Argo has ZC and ZR to hook up to the aquastat i have nothing i can find
Thank You for your help
#4
OK, understand... and your 'solution' may help the problem somewhat, but daggone it's gonna cost ya some bux for the extra fuel.
I guess perhaps the indirect is too small then, if yer runnin' out of hot water before the unit can recover.
Still, you will have to change the aquastat. Those ZC and ZR terminals on the Argo won't help you go warm start...
There is a way to go warm start with an add on aquastat, but you would need another immersion well on the boiler for that.
I think the easiest way is to change the a'stat out.
I wonder if there is something else going on that the indirect can't recover fast enough?
Is this a long term problem? Something you've lived with for years? Or did you maybe just move into this home ?
Give us a little history please...
I guess perhaps the indirect is too small then, if yer runnin' out of hot water before the unit can recover.
Still, you will have to change the aquastat. Those ZC and ZR terminals on the Argo won't help you go warm start...
There is a way to go warm start with an add on aquastat, but you would need another immersion well on the boiler for that.
I think the easiest way is to change the a'stat out.
I wonder if there is something else going on that the indirect can't recover fast enough?
Is this a long term problem? Something you've lived with for years? Or did you maybe just move into this home ?
Give us a little history please...
#5
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Yes bought the house with a bad tank(leaking) install new 35 Gal have five people 3 are Girls you understand Were only two people in house before and they had no problem could you help with what A'state to install
Thank you for you help
Thank you for you help
#6
OK then... let me ask you this: On the new indirect, was a TEMPERING VALVE, or sometimes called a MIXING VALVE installed when it was replaced?
What temperature is the aquastat on the indirect set at?
A tempering valve, properly piped, will 'extend' the amount of hot water available from a water heater. It does this by allowing the water heater to run at a higher temp, say 140° and tempers the water going to the home to a 'safe' 120°, by mixing some cold with the hot from the water heater. So, you end up using less of the hot water in the tank.
I would definitely explore this idea first, before commiting to a warm start... cuz it's gonna cost some bucks to keep the boiler warm 24/7/52 !
What temperature is the aquastat on the indirect set at?
A tempering valve, properly piped, will 'extend' the amount of hot water available from a water heater. It does this by allowing the water heater to run at a higher temp, say 140° and tempers the water going to the home to a 'safe' 120°, by mixing some cold with the hot from the water heater. So, you end up using less of the hot water in the tank.
I would definitely explore this idea first, before commiting to a warm start... cuz it's gonna cost some bucks to keep the boiler warm 24/7/52 !
#7
I think making the boiler a warm start is a mistake. Let's determine why you are running out of hot water. My guess is a piping or flow issue.
Let's start by gathering some info.
What is the model and manufacturer of the tank?
What is the make and model of the circulator?
What size pipe is between the boiler and the tank?
What is the make and model of the boiler along with the boiler DOE or Gross output?
Let's start by gathering some info.
What is the model and manufacturer of the tank?
What is the make and model of the circulator?
What size pipe is between the boiler and the tank?
What is the make and model of the boiler along with the boiler DOE or Gross output?
#9
I have a 35 gallon indirect and my boiler has a DOE output of 88k btu. I can tell you with one shower going I never run out of hot water and the recovery time is short. I have mt tank set to 130 degrees with a 10 degree differential.