Installing new Burnham ES2 boiler - installation questions concerning valves
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Installing new Burnham ES2 boiler - installation questions concerning valves
The System Piping diagram is here
I have three questions concerning the System Piping diagram for my new boiler:
1) The System Piping diagram for this boiler shows an connection with an isolation valve between the return and supply, and is shown with an arrow pointed toward the supply side. What is the purpose of having this valve? My current boiler piping has no such valve.
2) How important is the flow control valve on the return side? Is that only to keep heated water from rising after the boiler shuts off? My current boiler does not have a flow control valve.
3) My system uses three zone valves. How important is the pressure-reducing valve shown between the supply and return? My zone valves complete the call for heat only when fully open, so it does not seem that I would need the pressure-reducing valve, unless that is needed for the case when only one zone is open and the pump is supplying too much pressure (new pump is a B&G Red Fox NRF-22, pump on existing boiler is a B&G Series #100). My current boiler does not have a pressure-reducing valve.
Thanks,
Eric Peterson
I have three questions concerning the System Piping diagram for my new boiler:
1) The System Piping diagram for this boiler shows an connection with an isolation valve between the return and supply, and is shown with an arrow pointed toward the supply side. What is the purpose of having this valve? My current boiler piping has no such valve.
2) How important is the flow control valve on the return side? Is that only to keep heated water from rising after the boiler shuts off? My current boiler does not have a flow control valve.
3) My system uses three zone valves. How important is the pressure-reducing valve shown between the supply and return? My zone valves complete the call for heat only when fully open, so it does not seem that I would need the pressure-reducing valve, unless that is needed for the case when only one zone is open and the pump is supplying too much pressure (new pump is a B&G Red Fox NRF-22, pump on existing boiler is a B&G Series #100). My current boiler does not have a pressure-reducing valve.
Thanks,
Eric Peterson
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Keep in mind that your current boiler might have been installed by a complete knucklehead who used the install manual as a kneepad.
The ES2 is a very well thought-out boiler. Pipe it exactly as they show and it will perform very well.
It is common practice to include a differential bypass on zone valve systems. Particularly if the zones call irregularly.
Alternatively, you could go with a 'smart' circulator like Wilo ECO or Grundfos Alpha. They will adjust flow depending on the load, and are also way, way more electrically efficient. They cost a bit more up front, but between the savings of time and money on the differential bypass and the long-term electrical, are well worth it, IMHO.
If the B&G 100 was adequate, you do not need a NRF-22, either. That's a rather beefy circulator with a relatively large electrical draw.
The ES2 is a very well thought-out boiler. Pipe it exactly as they show and it will perform very well.
It is common practice to include a differential bypass on zone valve systems. Particularly if the zones call irregularly.
Alternatively, you could go with a 'smart' circulator like Wilo ECO or Grundfos Alpha. They will adjust flow depending on the load, and are also way, way more electrically efficient. They cost a bit more up front, but between the savings of time and money on the differential bypass and the long-term electrical, are well worth it, IMHO.
If the B&G 100 was adequate, you do not need a NRF-22, either. That's a rather beefy circulator with a relatively large electrical draw.
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Comments on ES2 install feedback
You may be right about the kneepad.
The current boiler was a replacement for the original gravity system and was installed before my time. I did some re-piping in the basement to split the house into three zones and installed TRVs on some radiators. On the boiler I added an air scoop, purge valve, pressure reducing valve, backflow preventer, and lots of full port ball valves for isolation.
The differential by-pass valve makes sense to me but I wonder if I need it as the current piping, zone valves, and pump work fine without it.
I still don't know why I would need a flow control valve or why the supply and return should be connected with an isolation valve.
I like to understand why I am installing things, and not just do things only because some diagram says I should do it a certain way. If for example the flow control valve can be left out for now without compromising safety, I would opt for retro-fitting it later when I have more time and a valve in hand (heating season is now upon us). Same for the differential bypass valve.
Thanks,
Eric Peterson
The current boiler was a replacement for the original gravity system and was installed before my time. I did some re-piping in the basement to split the house into three zones and installed TRVs on some radiators. On the boiler I added an air scoop, purge valve, pressure reducing valve, backflow preventer, and lots of full port ball valves for isolation.
The differential by-pass valve makes sense to me but I wonder if I need it as the current piping, zone valves, and pump work fine without it.
I still don't know why I would need a flow control valve or why the supply and return should be connected with an isolation valve.
I like to understand why I am installing things, and not just do things only because some diagram says I should do it a certain way. If for example the flow control valve can be left out for now without compromising safety, I would opt for retro-fitting it later when I have more time and a valve in hand (heating season is now upon us). Same for the differential bypass valve.
Thanks,
Eric Peterson