Bought house, need to start boiler.
#1
10-27-10, 05:58 PM
Bought house, need to start boiler.
We bought a house equipped with a gas boiler.The last owner turned the boiler off and we were wondering what steps we need to follow to start it up. The burner is a Roberts-Gordon burner#302-21A. My husband is a gasfitter but not familiar with residential boiler systems.Any help greatly appreciated as it is getting cool here. Thanks in advance.
#2
10-27-10, 09:35 PM
Does the system appear that it has been maintained properly? or is it all broke down looking?
There's a number of things that could be suggested, and if there's no 'history' available, you might wanna do a 'fall cleanup list'...
Here's a list of things, in no particular order that might be advisable:
1. Inspect flue passages in boiler and brush clean if needed.
1a. inspect and clean burner assembly.
2. inspect flue pipe and CHIMNEY (was this part of the home inspection?)
3. check the system pressure on the boiler gauge. Boiler COLD should read 12-15 PSI
4. check the air precharge in the expansion tank. This can NOT be checked when there is pressure on the boiler, to do so requires dropping the boiler pressure to ZERO before checking. (more on this later if needed...)
5. if a standing pilot model, pilot will need lighting. If spark ignition, examine to verify pilot lights.
6. I'm sure I'm forgetting something...
I'm not familiar with that brand... is there any more info on the data plate?
There's a number of things that could be suggested, and if there's no 'history' available, you might wanna do a 'fall cleanup list'...
Here's a list of things, in no particular order that might be advisable:
1. Inspect flue passages in boiler and brush clean if needed.
1a. inspect and clean burner assembly.
2. inspect flue pipe and CHIMNEY (was this part of the home inspection?)
3. check the system pressure on the boiler gauge. Boiler COLD should read 12-15 PSI
4. check the air precharge in the expansion tank. This can NOT be checked when there is pressure on the boiler, to do so requires dropping the boiler pressure to ZERO before checking. (more on this later if needed...)
5. if a standing pilot model, pilot will need lighting. If spark ignition, examine to verify pilot lights.
6. I'm sure I'm forgetting something...
I'm not familiar with that brand... is there any more info on the data plate?
#3
10-29-10, 08:36 AM
Here is the information on the burner plate
oberts-Gordon Appliance Corp.
Burner #302.21A
Serial #80.0365
The following model # is off the gas valve # VS820A1039
The boiler was inspected and run when the home was inspected, seemed fine except for dirty rads. They are now clean and the boiler is in good shape although old.Gave my husband your list of things to do. Thank you NJ Trooper.
oberts-Gordon Appliance Corp.
Burner #302.21A
Serial #80.0365
The following model # is off the gas valve # VS820A1039
The boiler was inspected and run when the home was inspected, seemed fine except for dirty rads. They are now clean and the boiler is in good shape although old.Gave my husband your list of things to do. Thank you NJ Trooper.
#4
10-29-10, 09:02 AM
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Presumably the system worked last season?
Here's what I would do in addition to the items listed by Trooper:
Check and record the pressure and temp on the boiler gauge while the system is still cold. (If the pressure is higher than, say, 15 psi, stop and get back to us.)
Check open the water supply valve from the city water to the boiler.
Turn on the electric power to the system.
Check open the manual gas shutoff valve ahead of the fuel valve.
Light the pilot, if there is one.
Turn up the thermostat(s) and verify: main burner lights and circulator pump comes on (may not come on until the boiler comes up to temperature).
Check and record the boiler pressure and temp after the system is hot. (If the pressure is higher than about 20 psi or the temp is higher than 185 deg F, get back to us.)
Check to see if you're getting heat at all the radiators, etc.
Incidentally, there should be a nameplate on the boiler itself, not just the burner.
Here's what I would do in addition to the items listed by Trooper:
Check and record the pressure and temp on the boiler gauge while the system is still cold. (If the pressure is higher than, say, 15 psi, stop and get back to us.)
Check open the water supply valve from the city water to the boiler.
Turn on the electric power to the system.
Check open the manual gas shutoff valve ahead of the fuel valve.
Light the pilot, if there is one.
Turn up the thermostat(s) and verify: main burner lights and circulator pump comes on (may not come on until the boiler comes up to temperature).
Check and record the boiler pressure and temp after the system is hot. (If the pressure is higher than about 20 psi or the temp is higher than 185 deg F, get back to us.)
Check to see if you're getting heat at all the radiators, etc.
Incidentally, there should be a nameplate on the boiler itself, not just the burner.
#6
10-29-10, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JustforMe
The nameplate on the boiler is Oakwood Iron Works Steel Boiler. Manufactured in Toronto, Ontario. Canada
Doesn't the boiler nameplate have Btu/hr ratings?
Your Roberts-Gordon burner suggests a bit of age, too. They are still in business, but I don't think they still make gas burners for boilers.
#7
10-29-10, 04:48 PM
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Pictures would help. To post pictures you need to first upload the pictures to a photo hosting site such as photobucket.com or villagephotos.com. and then post the public URLs for the pictures (or album) here. More pictures are always better than fewer. Please have CLEAR pictures and have both close up pictures and ones from a far enough distance that we can see how the various parts are interconnected.
BTW, I won't tell you to replace the boiler without a lot more information.
BTW, I won't tell you to replace the boiler without a lot more information.
#8
10-29-10, 06:38 PM
our steel boiler
Will try and take some decent pictures but the boiler room isn't well lit. It's an old steel fire-tube boiler I think as when you open the door there are a series of steel tubes.We will replace it with a direct vent boiler(using our existing rads as they are in good condition) but were hoping to be able to look around for a good deal and not have to take the first one offered. It is a small town and the local company is extremely expensive.
