Is there a warranty on Honeywell R8182H Aquastat Control?

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Old 11-02-10, 06:31 AM
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Is there a warranty on Honeywell R8182H Aquastat Control?

Is there a warranty on Honeywell R8182H Aquastat Control? I purchased this item a little over 10 months ago and it appears to have a problem. None of the literature I got with the item mentions a warranty. If yes, any info including contact info would be helpful. The problem is as follows:
When any of the 3 zone vaves (Taco 572) call for heat, the boiler fires up if the temperature is below the high limit setting as it should, but the circulator does not turn on as it should. There appears to be a low ac voltage (3.2vac) but not the 120 VAC on terminals C1,C2. The circulator was disconnected from C1.C2 and connected directly to a 120 VAC source and it works fine.
I had this same problem on a similar R8182H unit 10 months ago, after 28 years of use, and replaced the R8182H unit which solved the problem. That unit also had high & low limit settings that were not accurate for a couple of years as mentioned in other posts. Replacing the unit also resulted in accurate high & low limit settings.
It seems unlikely that I would have the same problem after only 10 months of use on a new R8182H unit. Is there anything that could cause this to happen?
 
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Old 11-02-10, 07:18 AM
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Don't know about a warranty... but let's talk about the problem.

What HIGH , LOW , and DIFF settings are you using?
 
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Old 11-02-10, 08:07 AM
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High 180, Low 140, Diff 15.
 
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Old 11-02-10, 02:39 PM
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Those settings are fine... might could increase the Diff to 20, but it's not the problem here... reason I asked is because it's possible to get the LOW too close to the HIGH and that will cause screwy circ operation.

I agree that it's strange that a 10 month old a'stat bites the soot...

What circulator are you running?
 
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Old 11-02-10, 02:57 PM
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More info: I forgot to say that when any zone is calling for heat, the circulator relay closes even though there is no voltage on C!,C2 and no circulator operation. In experimenting I found that one of the zone valves, when I pushed the lever to open the circulator relay would close. This did not happen on the other two zone values. In measuring C!,C2 I found 120 VAC as expected. I tried this on the other two zones separately and found a low AC Voltage (2.5 VAC). I went back to the first zone valve expecting to repeat my success but this time it didn't work. Testing whether the two faulty one valves may be shorting out the results since all three are wired in parallel to the "T" terminals of the R8182H box, I disconnected the two Unsuccessful zone valves and kept only the previously successful one wired. No luck--it did not work. By tapping in the area of the circulator relay I got it to work with 120 VAC at C1, C2. But turing off the power, causing the circulator relay to break and then turning power back on causing the circulator relay to make resulted in a low VAC at C1, C2. The problem is somewhat intermittent and seems related to the circulator relay. It seems like the relay is not always making a good closed connection or there is a break in the circuit board between the relay and C1,C2. Is the relay easily removable? It looks like it might be plugged in to a socket or what looks like a socket might be part of an integral unit. If it is removable, any suggestions so as to not cause further damage.
Another question: I just moved the lever to open on the previously successful zone valve and it not only closed the circulator relay but also the boiler relay to fire up the boiler since temperature had dropped below the high setting. Since the other 2 zone valves don't operate this way, which is correct? Do I have one or two faulty zone valves? By the way, the valves are wired as follows. Each of the separate thermostats is wired between a 24 VAC source(Transformer) and terminal 1 of their respective zone valves. Terminal 2 of all valves are wired in parallel. Terminal 3 of all zone valves are wired in parallel. A wire pair is connected between the "T" terminals on the R8182H box and terminals 2 & 3 of the zone valves.
 
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Old 11-02-10, 03:22 PM
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John, I think you may be confusin' the sitcheeation... over-thinking it maybe.

I don't think you've told us what Zone Valves you have?

It sounds to me as though there is a cracked solder connection where the relays is SOLDERED INTO (NOT a plug in) the pc board.

Did you install the a'stat yourself when it was replaced? If so, you are familiar with how to remove it... if you own and know how to use a soldering iron, you can remove the a'stat, and bend back those little metal tabs that hold the board into the case and resolder the connections... what have you got to lose?
 
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Old 11-02-10, 03:56 PM
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Although I specified Honeywell when designing flame safeguard equipment my personal opinion is that Honeywell relays suck. I can't begin to count the number of Honeywell relay failures I have experienced in the field. Furthermore, although Honeywell is a huge American company these controls are assembled outside the US.

IF you have a good rapport with the local Honeywell distributor (as I did) you might be able to get them to honor a performance warranty but otherwise the warranty is pretty much non-existent once you take the control out of the box. This is why NOT having "spare parts" is usually in the best interest of a homeowner.

For what it's worth, I never used "combination" controls in the few residential systems I designed nor in any of the commercial / industrial installations. Using separate components (properly listed by a NRTL, of course) makes it less expensive to change just the non-performing part. It might be a bit more expensive initially but less expensive over the long haul and it also makes troubleshooting far easier.
 
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Old 11-02-10, 03:58 PM
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The circulator is a Grundfox, Type UPS 15-58 FRC P/N/ 59896371 P1; replaced about 8 years ago.
The Taco zone valves are TACO 571-2 with powerhead 555-050RP
Yes, I did install the R8182H myself.
Yes, I do own a soldering iron. (I did TV service many years ago when sets had tubes and chassis were hand wired--and troubleshooting involved finding the faulty component--not replacing an entire unit/sub unit).
You were helpful in mentioning the metal tabs that hold the unit in place. In my cursory inspection it looked like everything was welded or riveted together.
If the unit has a one year (or more) guarantee I would rather use that. If it doesn't I'll try what you suggested.
 
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Old 11-02-10, 05:01 PM
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Ahhhh, the good ole days when REAL radios glowed in the dark... yes, I remember that well. What was even cooler than the orange glow of the filaments was the bluish glow of those big ole 866 mercury vapor rectifiers (but you wouldn't find them in a TV!) flickering with every modulation peak... John, been there, done that... and now... well, I'm still there, but we replace the whole damn modules (but not in TV's)... tis a pity indeed.

Furd mentions a 'combination' control... your 8182.

Your boiler must be an older model? Typically the newer systems use individual parts, such as a separate aquastat and primary control. Your 8182 has both parts in one chassis. You could change over, but it would mean a bit of rework/rewiring...

Hopefully you saved the receipt, and will have luck, but I kinda doubt it... so let us know what you find! and if you've repaired it.
 
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Old 11-02-10, 10:08 PM
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Furd mentions a 'combination' control...
I was actually thinking of a combined aquastat and circulator relay but the idea is the same. Separate controls make troubleshooting and repair much easier and usually less expensive.
 
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Old 11-05-10, 01:40 PM
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Problem Resolved-Yes, there is a One-Year Warranty-Replacement Fixed problem

The problem is resolved.
Nowhere in the literature of the R8182H does it mention a warranty. So I called Honeywell in Golden Valley, MN, explained my problem & analysis, and was told that there is a one-year warranty and that I should return the unit to the distributor for a replacement. My call & problem was also logged in. I then called the distributor from whom I had purchased the product. I talked to someone "upstairs" who told me to bring it in to the counter with my purchase slip and there should be no problem giving me a replacement since it was within the one-year warranty. Today, I brought my defective unit to the distributor's counter for a replacement. After the counter person checked with "upstairs", I was given a replacement unit. The replacement unit was installed today and all seems to be working fine.
 
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Old 11-05-10, 03:19 PM
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Fantastic! glad that all worked out for ya, but I'll bet you were chompin' at the bit wanting to melt some solder... weren't ya? don't lie! I know the smell of melted rosin is still in yer memory!
 
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Old 11-05-10, 05:16 PM
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Additional Note: I just noticed on the front of the box of the replacement unit (and the unit I purchased 10 months ago) is the statement "Improved Design, Two Year Warranty".
So, the info I received from Honeywell & my distributor was wrong in stating a one year warranty. In my case it didn't matter since my unit failed in 10 months. But, for others with the same unit, the warranty is two years. Of course, nowhere can you find the details or any reference to the warranty in the literature & specifications. So I assume the warranty is for defects in operation within the time period and covers replacement of defective units. In any event, my unit was replaced free of charge--others take note.
 
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Old 11-05-10, 09:14 PM
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Good work! It never hurts to ask as the worst thing that can happen is they'll say no.
 
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