Just replacing zone valve motor or whole unit???
#1
11-11-10, 02:58 PM
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Just replacing zone valve motor or whole unit???
Just joined, read many of the threads looking for answer but didn't find this question yet and I'm outa time. Need a quick answer please.
Background: I had service done on our boiler 2 years ago. He replaced a bad zone box w/ a Synchron 1929, (802360JA). Now, 2 other zone motors are shot. When I called to have him replace them, he says he won't just replace the motors but will have to replace the whole units like he did last time and wants $129 for each unit. Don't have that kinda cash... A local supplier will sell me each motor for $39 or I can buy them on ebay for a varied cost. Or I could buy the entire units and replace them....
My question is this... Aside from expense, can you tell me pros/cons of replacing just the motor vs. replacing entire unit?
Thanks
Sandi
Background: I had service done on our boiler 2 years ago. He replaced a bad zone box w/ a Synchron 1929, (802360JA). Now, 2 other zone motors are shot. When I called to have him replace them, he says he won't just replace the motors but will have to replace the whole units like he did last time and wants $129 for each unit. Don't have that kinda cash... A local supplier will sell me each motor for $39 or I can buy them on ebay for a varied cost. Or I could buy the entire units and replace them....
My question is this... Aside from expense, can you tell me pros/cons of replacing just the motor vs. replacing entire unit?
Thanks
Sandi
#3
11-11-10, 04:19 PM
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thanks, the outer zone box cover says Honeywell. When I take this cover off, the dial (motor?) says Synchron 1929. I believe he replaced it w/ 802360JA, But we apparently saved the box and it says, V8043 E 1012 Motorized Valve, 24v.
I've determined the thermostats work. Then went through house, had them call for heat. 2 of the boxes did nothing and the levers were somewhat stiff to move. The other 2 were open and I felt heat flowing through.
From the posts I read, the motor needs replaced. I didn't see mention of the entire unit being replaced.
What's your thoughts?
I've determined the thermostats work. Then went through house, had them call for heat. 2 of the boxes did nothing and the levers were somewhat stiff to move. The other 2 were open and I felt heat flowing through.
From the posts I read, the motor needs replaced. I didn't see mention of the entire unit being replaced.
What's your thoughts?
#4
11-11-10, 04:56 PM
Sounds like they are all Honeywell valves... if the levers were 'stiff' and when moved you heard the 'whirring' of the gears inside, then they were in fact closed. If the thermostats are OK, AND THE WIRING ALSO has no problem, then it would seem to be the motor itself is bad.
So inspect the wiring to make sure there are no bad connections, and if you are certain that all else is OK, then go ahead and try replacing the motors. It's pretty easy...
So inspect the wiring to make sure there are no bad connections, and if you are certain that all else is OK, then go ahead and try replacing the motors. It's pretty easy...
#5
11-11-10, 05:05 PM
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k, I'd tightened the plastic twist connectors w/ the wiring already and replacing the motors only was what I was planning on doing. But then a 2nd thought was that aside from him wanting more money, why would he need be to replace the entire unit? I had just talked w/ him on the phone prior to posting.
#6
11-11-10, 05:15 PM
why would he need be to replace the entire unit?
One could say that he's trying to maximize his profit margin. It would probably take him less time to change out the whole head than the motor.
He probably already has the replacement heads on his service truck and every day they are on that truck the more money they are costing him.
He doesn't want a 'call back' to kill that profit margin. Let's say he replaces the motor and two weeks later the ENDSWITCH craps out and the valve opens but the boiler doesn't fire... customer thinks tech screwed up, when in fact no fault of his own.
Maybe the motors burned out BECAUSE the endswitch is bad? If the endswitch IS bad, the thermostat would call the valve to open, but the boiler would not fire up, and the valve would sit there with the motor powered and HEATING UP until it finally gave up it's ghost (because the motors are not intended for continuous service, and WILL overheat if left energized for extended periods of time)
It make good business sense for HIM, but at your expense... and who knows? maybe he's right?
That said, you can buy replacement power heads on-line for about $60 or so... if you can change a motor, you can change the head too... probably more easily actually!
#7
11-11-10, 06:42 PM
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I was thinking a similar senario... Once I get the motor replaced, that something else would go out but was unsure of what else is in this unit that can be replaced.
How would you best describe the 'endswitch' that you mentioned, so that I can become familiar w/ it in case that needs to be replaced too.
thanks for your time.
How would you best describe the 'endswitch' that you mentioned, so that I can become familiar w/ it in case that needs to be replaced too.
thanks for your time.
#8
11-11-10, 06:49 PM
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btw, is there a simple way to trouble shoot finding out if it's the 'endswitch' or 'motor' that's bad?
plus, what's the power head?
I can do this once I know what each part is and it's function. thanks
plus, what's the power head?
I can do this once I know what each part is and it's function. thanks
#9
11-11-10, 07:39 PM
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Honeywell motor
It's really easy to test the motors.
Turn off the main power to the boiler.
Lock the valve open with the lever moved all the way over & dropped into the small notch.
Remove the motor which is held in place by one very small phillips screw on one side & a tab on the other.
Once the motor is out, turn up the thermostat for that zone & turn the power back on. The small gear on the bottom should turn & be very difficult to hold onto.
Motor failures on Honeywell zone valves are fairly common but replacement is quite easy (takes me less than 5 minutes start to finish but I've done more than a few).
Turn off the main power to the boiler.
Lock the valve open with the lever moved all the way over & dropped into the small notch.
Remove the motor which is held in place by one very small phillips screw on one side & a tab on the other.
Once the motor is out, turn up the thermostat for that zone & turn the power back on. The small gear on the bottom should turn & be very difficult to hold onto.
Motor failures on Honeywell zone valves are fairly common but replacement is quite easy (takes me less than 5 minutes start to finish but I've done more than a few).
#10
11-11-10, 07:46 PM
Well... see, that's the problem... the endswitch CAN be replaced, but it's not that easy. It's not really sold as a standard replacement part... but it can be located in electronic supply catalogs... but you would have to know what you were looking for... then, to replace it, ya kinda gotta take the whole 'power head' apart and be able to SOLDER wires onto it... so, if the endswitch is bad, count on replacing the whole power head.
#11
11-11-10, 07:51 PM
Hi Grady!
The POWER HEAD is the metal box that sits on top of the brass valve body. On 'newer' valves there will be TWO screws holding this head in place, and to change the head on the newer valves you just take out the 2 screws... no need to drain the water from the system.
OLDER valves have FOUR screws holding the head on, and those older valves require that the system water is drained! before removing the screws.
Always follow the instructions when replacing the head... as Grady pointed out, you want the valve locked in the open position when changing the motor or the head.
The POWER HEAD is the metal box that sits on top of the brass valve body. On 'newer' valves there will be TWO screws holding this head in place, and to change the head on the newer valves you just take out the 2 screws... no need to drain the water from the system.
OLDER valves have FOUR screws holding the head on, and those older valves require that the system water is drained! before removing the screws.
Always follow the instructions when replacing the head... as Grady pointed out, you want the valve locked in the open position when changing the motor or the head.
#12
11-11-10, 07:57 PM
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Awesome! That's what I needed to know. Now onto working on it in the a.m.
Your time w/ me is appreciated. Thanks all
Sandi
Your time w/ me is appreciated. Thanks all
Sandi
#13
11-12-10, 03:19 PM
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Power Head
Yep, I've replaced a few power heads but very few. 99% of the time the problem is the motor. It's been years since I've encountered a bad end switch. Fortunately, I encounter very few zone valve systems except on System 2000 boilers which only use the two motor wires (no end switch involved).
