Aquastat 8182D installation


  #1  
Old 11-14-10, 06:36 AM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: usa
Posts: 11
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Aquastat 8182D installation

Hello,
I bought a used aquastat to get me through a few more months. I read the installation instructions which recommend hiring a pro. I have good mechanical ability but no experience working on a boiler or knowledge of what could happen. Is the aquastat installation something I should try?

Thanks-Robb
 
  #2  
Old 11-14-10, 08:03 AM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 19,710
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 6 Posts
It's not hard really... of course you need to get the wires back on the right terminals... so label them when you take them off ... digital pics help also ...

When you reinstall, make sure that the temp sensing bulb is fully inserted into the 'well' on the boiler!

CAUTION: 120 VAC is present inside the aquastat! REMOVE POWER FROM BOILER BEFORE STARTING! (I know you know that, but I have to say it anyway)


How sure are you that the used one you bought is any better than the one you have?
 
  #3  
Old 11-15-10, 06:54 AM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: usa
Posts: 11
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
8182 d

It looks like basic electrical connections. Do you need to drain the system before taking off the old aquastat?

As far as the question; "How sure are you that the used one you bought is any better than the one you have?"

Only age. The one that is not working is 25 years, the one I've purchased is 6 months old. Fingers crossed. Thank you for the reply.
 
  #4  
Old 11-15-10, 07:33 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: U.S. Midwest
Posts: 1,173
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Robb Mac
Do you need to drain the system before taking off the old aquastat?
No. It will be in a thermo-well.
 
  #5  
Old 11-15-10, 07:53 AM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: usa
Posts: 11
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Good deal. I don't see why I shouldn't install this myself. Thank you Mike.
 
  #6  
Old 11-15-10, 08:22 AM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 19,710
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 6 Posts
Robb, inspect the capillary tube to the temp bulb to make sure there are no 'kinks' in it. And of course be careful that you don't add any!
 
  #7  
Old 11-16-10, 10:57 AM
Z
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 3,422
Received 131 Upvotes on 122 Posts
Originally Posted by Robb Mac
Good deal. I don't see why I shouldn't install this myself. Thank you Mike.

Hi Robb. Thought I would add my 2 cents. I had zero experience with boilers but with the help of this forum (notably from Trooper) I successfully replaced my Aquastat. I was nervous about the temp-bulb and the well. Don't know why but I thought it might be a bear to seat the bulb - but it wasn't.

However, I did one thing Trooper might say is wrong: With a new Aquastat you get some kind of thermal compound you can put on the temp-bulb in the well. Think this improves the heat transfer capability so the Aquastat gets a better reading? (I think?). But if I remember the compound is optional. My bulb fit very snugly so I never used the compound.

Everything seems fines however. So I really don't know the full story on the compound.

Good luck!
 
  #8  
Old 11-16-10, 04:09 PM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 19,710
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 6 Posts
I ain't gonna scold ya Dad! It will make the system more responsive, but it will work fine without it. And besides, when that crap dries up and hardens a bit it can make it a major PITA to get a tight fitting bulb out of the well. How long have aquastats been around and working fine without that stuff? Right, a long time.

On the other hand, if you were mounting final output transistors on a heatsink... then I would have something to say!
 
  #9  
Old 11-16-10, 04:17 PM
M
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: U.S. Midwest
Posts: 1,173
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I've used the heat compound when it came with the 'stat. But, it may be more important that the bulb physically touches the wall of the thermo-well. I can visualize the tube sticking into mid-air, not touching the wall. Maybe one chance in 50?
 
  #10  
Old 11-16-10, 04:52 PM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 19,710
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 6 Posts
If I was gonna use any at all, it would just be a bit in the very bottom of the well. Again though, with a bulb that fits properly in the well, probably not needed... the problem comes when you use so much that a good portion of the well is filled with it, and it actually makes it harder to get the bulb to the bottom because it's 'hydraulically' impossible to squeeze the mass of stuff in the bottom of the well past the bulb as you try to bottom it out.

Maybe the best way would be to put a blob on the end of the bulb before inserting?
 
  #11  
Old 11-17-10, 06:07 AM
H
Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 163
Upvotes: 0
Received 2 Upvotes on 2 Posts
Based on 40 years experience, the best place for the heat transfer paste is the garbage can. I had to drain more than one system and replace the well in order to replace the aquastat because after 25 years that paste was more like Super Glue.
 
  #12  
Old 11-17-10, 09:17 AM
Z
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 3,422
Received 131 Upvotes on 122 Posts
Just did a 3 point shot with mine into the can!
 
  #13  
Old 11-29-10, 11:32 AM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: usa
Posts: 11
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
2 weeks ago I started this

The 8182D was in and performed for 13 days with no problem. Last night I noticed the temperature in the house dropping. I hit the reset on my new aquastat and the boiler turned on ran for a minute, then shut off before heating any water. The thing was cold. I noticed that it shut off immediately after hearing a sound similar to a blow torch lighting. I tried to reset again, same thing except this time there was no blow torch sound. It just shut off after 30 seconds. Being so late, I slept on it and tried resetting again this morning and it has been running correctly today. Usually I'd leave things as is, since it is working. Instead I am wondering if anyone has had a similar experience and what I could do proactively to avoid future shut downs. Thank you, Robb
 
  #14  
Old 11-29-10, 03:30 PM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 19,710
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 6 Posts
Dang, that sooks...

So much for used equipment? Or, is there some other problem that caused the reset?

I can't imagine what that 'blowtorch' sound was.

What was the ORIGINAL problem with the old aquastat?
 
  #15  
Old 11-30-10, 10:11 AM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: usa
Posts: 11
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
original problem

What started it all was the boiler would start then shut off after a minute + or -. Kind of similar to what happened Sunday night. After Monday AM's reset however it is still operating.
 
  #16  
Old 11-30-10, 03:49 PM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 19,710
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 6 Posts
Robb, let me ask you this: When was the last time you had the boiler cleaned, and the burner serviced?

There's a very good possibility that the Protectorelay is doing what it should be doing, and the problem is in the burner itself, the flame 'eye' (CAD cell) or the flame actually going out.
 
  #17  
Old 11-30-10, 06:30 PM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: usa
Posts: 11
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Well, I had the aforementioned problem in October. I called in a boiler serviceman who did clean and service the boiler. He was the one who told me it was the aquastat. He thought I could get another year out of this one. Anyway, thank you for the suggestion. I have a good enough relationship with him to call and ask about the burner or CAD cell.
 
  #18  
Old 11-30-10, 06:57 PM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 19,710
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 6 Posts
Keep us posted ...

The reason I asked about the old one is because for the reset button to pop out and need resetting, the aquastat would have had to think there was no flame. The way that thing works is that there is a 'heater' and a 'bimetal strip'. If there is no flame sensed, the bimetal strip flexes and trips the safety. If the CAD cell senses the flame, it turns off the heater and the unit stays running.

Not saying there can't be a fault with both the old and the used... but don't dismiss the fact that it could be something else entirely...
 
  #19  
Old 12-15-10, 11:33 AM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: usa
Posts: 11
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
2 more weeks have past and still working!

Happy to report no more hiccups. The new/used boiler is in the garage awaiting installation.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: