Boiler temperature is too low
#1
11-21-10, 09:31 AM
Boiler temperature is too low
New to this forum.
I have an hot water electrical heating system.
My problem is that the boiler's temperature does not raise above 110 F so it takes ages to heat the house.
I checked the resistance of all four elements and they are fine.
I checked the dual aquastat. Settings are : minimum at 160 F and maximum at 180 F. When I turn the minimum at 100 F, the system stops.
The pressure is fine (between 15 and 20 psi).
The circulating pump seems to be working fine (it starts when the system starts and stops and it stops).
Any idea of what the problem might be
I have an hot water electrical heating system.
My problem is that the boiler's temperature does not raise above 110 F so it takes ages to heat the house.
I checked the resistance of all four elements and they are fine.
I checked the dual aquastat. Settings are : minimum at 160 F and maximum at 180 F. When I turn the minimum at 100 F, the system stops.
The pressure is fine (between 15 and 20 psi).
The circulating pump seems to be working fine (it starts when the system starts and stops and it stops).
Any idea of what the problem might be
#4
11-21-10, 10:17 AM
I googled your model and couldn't find any info on your boiler... so I probably won't be able to help much.
You say you checked the resistance of the elements... and that they were fine...
Did you check the resistance after removing one of the wires? in other words, are you sure that you were measuring the element itself, and not some associated circuitry?
What resistance did the elements measure?
If the elements are all good, then the problem must be in the 'sequencer' or one of the sensors... but I can't tell you how to check that without the schematic diagram which I can't find.
To post pictures, you need to set up an account at a photo hosting site and then link it to here. A free account set up at Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket will let you upload the pics there and then come back here and place a link to your album.
You say you checked the resistance of the elements... and that they were fine...
Did you check the resistance after removing one of the wires? in other words, are you sure that you were measuring the element itself, and not some associated circuitry?
What resistance did the elements measure?
If the elements are all good, then the problem must be in the 'sequencer' or one of the sensors... but I can't tell you how to check that without the schematic diagram which I can't find.
To post pictures, you need to set up an account at a photo hosting site and then link it to here. A free account set up at Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket will let you upload the pics there and then come back here and place a link to your album.
#5
11-21-10, 10:29 AM
Pictures of the system
Here are two pictures of the system and the aquastat (I hope they appear!)
Yes, I did removed the wires before testing the resistance. The reading was about 13 ohms.
Yes, I did removed the wires before testing the resistance. The reading was about 13 ohms.
#8
11-21-10, 12:15 PM
You MUST be comfortable working with 240 VAC!
YOU CAN BE KILLED INSTANTLY! DO NOT ATTEMPT IF YOU ARE NOT TRAINED TO DO SO!
YOU CAN BE KILLED INSTANTLY! You said:
Settings are : minimum at 160 F and maximum at 180 F
As long as the temperature is below 160, the MAIN CONTACTOR should be energized. You should hear this 'CLICK' when it energizes and you should have 240 VAC at each of relays 1, 2, 3, 4 terminals.
There are two 'stages'. Depending on the temperature of the outdoor thermostat, you may have either TWO or FOUR elements active at any time. The outdoor thermostat must be a 'reverse' acting thermostat, and the contacts must CLOSE when the temperature falls, which will allow the second two heating elements to operate.
YOU CAN BE KILLED INSTANTLY!
When the water temperature is below the high limit (160) AND the room thermostat is calling for heat, the pump should run (does it?) AND R1 and R2 should energize and provide 240 VAC to E1 and E2.
YOU CAN BE KILLED INSTANTLY!
With the main contactor energized AND the room thermostat calling for heat, you should have 240 VAC on the terminals of E1 and E2. Do you?
#9
11-21-10, 01:15 PM
Thanks RJ Trooper
Thanks for your help, but I think it is now beyond my knowledge and I will call a specialist.
I do not have any problem in testing elements or changing an aquastat when the system is dead, but I do not feel I have the required knowledge to test a loaded system when I am not even quite sure where I should put the probes!
Hoped it would have been something very simple as change the aquastat...but it does not seem to be the case.
I do not have any problem in testing elements or changing an aquastat when the system is dead, but I do not feel I have the required knowledge to test a loaded system when I am not even quite sure where I should put the probes!
Hoped it would have been something very simple as change the aquastat...but it does not seem to be the case.
#10
11-21-10, 02:05 PM
You are a wise person Levo!
Clint Eastwood said in one of his movies:
"A man's got to know his limitations"
Hopefully it is something relatively inexpensive to repair, such as a bad transformer.
Will you come back and tell us the outcome?
Bon Chance!
Clint Eastwood said in one of his movies:
"A man's got to know his limitations"
Hopefully it is something relatively inexpensive to repair, such as a bad transformer.
Will you come back and tell us the outcome?
Bon Chance!
