no heat

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Old 12-09-10, 07:00 AM
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no heat

we thank you guys,you are angels,beleive us.
turned on boiler,no heat,boiler comes on ok,notice the two pipes gg to base boards are cold,thought maybe air in system,drain at boiler and no air,then notice the circulator not coming on,go to aquastat and and at c1 c2 measure no volts not calling for heat,kick up thermostat and now measure 110 v there,pull cover off circulator and meaSURE 110V going to the capacitor.I say the capacitor or circulator is bad,does this make sense? if so,what can I do to tell which one might be bad,if not both? If I have to change out the circulator I can isolate the water from the water feed and baseboard from one side of the circulator but no shutoff between the boiler and the other side of the circulator,would I have to drain the boiler to pull the circulator?do you have any idea on the amount of water that would be? the boiler is a oil fired burnham with tankless coil rs-112,142000btu.the boiler at cold is 25psi at 60 degrees and at hot 30 psi 220 degrees,I hope I gave everything you need,thanks again.my wife just yelled,PLEASE,she is not a trooper when she gets cold.
 
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Old 12-09-10, 07:19 AM
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What is the make/model of the circulator ?
 
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Old 12-09-10, 12:28 PM
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no heat

thanks for the reply. it is a taco 007-f3 cartridge circulator,hope this helps
 
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Old 12-09-10, 02:02 PM
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You can shut off the electric power to the system and disconnect the capacitor. With a multimeter, check the resistance across the motor terminals. If very high or open, the motor is shot. Otherwise, you can try replacing the cap.

Since you don't have shutoff valves on both sides of the pump, then Yes, you'll have to drain some or all of the system to pull the pump. No way for us to estimate the volume.

Do you have one or more flo-control valves? If so, jack them open manually by turning the operator on top - you might be able to get some gravity flow until you get the pump running or replaced. Post some photos of your system. http://forum.doityourself.com/electr...your-post.html
 
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Old 12-10-10, 08:07 AM
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no heat

I measure 120 ohms across the black and red wires to the motor,is that a good or a bad reading?also can the motor part of the circulator removed from the mounting w/o losing water?thanks again.
 
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Old 12-10-10, 08:17 AM
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The resistance sounds like it may be OK, but I'm not 100% sure.

No, you can't remove the motor without losing water. The motor, rotor, and impeller are all together. Best to drain before you try to remove it - otherwise you'll get a lap full
 
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Old 12-11-10, 12:34 PM
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no heat

would anybody know if the is correct ohmmeter reading?thanks
 
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Old 12-11-10, 03:20 PM
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For the $60 or so that a new circ would cost, I'd just drop in a new one.

007-F5 - Taco 007-F5 - 007 Cast Iron Circulator, 1/25 HP
 
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Old 12-13-10, 12:53 PM
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no heat

the circulator is shot..have decided to get a new boiler AS this one is 27 years old,will get a smaller one as my house is very efficient small ranch with only 2 people,the guy i talked to said as I was getting a tankless I had to go 30,000 btu larger for the tankless,does this seem right?this is a basebnoard hot water system,thanks again
 
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Old 12-13-10, 02:39 PM
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Boilers with tankless domestic water heaters are significanly less efficient than those with an indirect heater. And properly controlled, an indirect should not require oversizing the boiler by 30,000 Btu/hr.

Plus, you reported that your existing boiler has a tankless heater - is he proposing to increase the rating by 30,000 over and above the existing boiler's rating? Have you had trouble with inadequate hot water? Or heat?

If I were you, I'd replace the pump - and wait until next spring before doing anything more drastic. In the meantime, you can study your alternatives. If there is nothing else wrong with your boiler aside from the pump, 27 years shouldn't dictate immediate or rash replacement - many boilers are older than that and still performing reliably.
 

Last edited by Mike Speed 30; 12-13-10 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 12-13-10, 05:32 PM
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NO! do NOT replace your boiler in the winter! What MIKE said... replace the pump now... wait till spring!
 
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Old 12-13-10, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by NJ Trooper View Post
NO! do NOT replace your boiler in the winter!
I can think of a couple of reasons for agreeing with Trooper. First, most installers you call this time of year are going to assume you're desparate (which from reading your posts, I might assume also). Their prices will reflect this.

Secondly, any new boiler installation is likely to have some initial problems, not serious maybe, but requiring correction. In the meantime, it's WINTER. Replacing a pump, on the other hand, should be simple, problem free, and inexpensive.

Here's another concern. From what little you've posted, I wonder if your prospective installer is giving you good advice.

But, keep in mind, this is a DIY forum, populated by those who know a little bit. It's hard for us to give advice to those who aren't somewhat informed about boilers to begin with. Just like those who depend upon a plumber to fix a leaking toilet flush valve - they risk being sold a new toilet, and we can't really help that situation.
 
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Old 12-14-10, 08:10 PM
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no heat

thanks for the replies, I told him that I wanted to be on the small side as my 1450 ft ranch is well insulated and my heat and hot water is ok,so he figured a 100000 boiler plus 30000 for the tankless which is the size I have now(142000)still seemed big to me.I dont know abt changing the circulator as thats straight mechanical but not sure abt getting water back into the boiler as its antifreezed,was hoping to use what I drained out so as not to dilute what I already have in there,I agree spring would be better,iny input to this?
 
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Old 12-14-10, 08:32 PM
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You mean the installer wanted to replace the boiler with the SAME SIZE UNIT? HOGWARSH! that's just WRONG!

One of the absolute prerequisites to replacing a boiler is to have, or have done, a HEAT LOSS CALCULATION, and size the replacement boiler to THAT, nothing else.

I would bet that your homes heat loss is not over 50,000 BTUH.
 
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Old 12-15-10, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by marilyn7renewed View Post
not sure abt getting water back into the boiler as its antifreezed,was hoping to use what I drained out so as not to dilute what I already have in there
Is your house regularly unattended during the winter? Do you really need antifreeze?
 
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Old 12-15-10, 09:45 AM
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no heat

yes we spend 2 1/2 months in fla w/ my brother jan,feb,1/2 of mar,thats why the antifreeze.is there a site on line that would explain how to do a heat loss?is it difficult to replace the antifreeze I take out? would I pump it in where I drain out the boiler,would have to borrow a pump,thanks
 
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