Superstore pressure/temp relief question.

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Old 12-18-10, 01:39 PM
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Superstore pressure/temp relief question.

I have a Superstore indirect hot water tank (ssu-45)with a Watts press/temp relief valve(100xl) thats leaks water after boiler (SlantFin XL2000) makes hot water. I just replaced the old valve, a Zurn, because that one leaked the same way. The boiler temp is 190f and psi between 25-30. This just started happening for no reason.

Could I have a defective valve twice?or should I try an expansion tank on the domestic cold water side? (no check valve installed)

Any advice, as always is appreciated. Thanks
 
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Old 12-18-10, 02:16 PM
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Some of the newer water meters have check valves built in, so you might have one and not know it...

Your boiler pressure should really not be that high either... you'll be looking into that before long, I'm sure.

Hit up HD or Lowes and pick up one of these for about $10. Screw it onto a hose bib on the domestic supply and leave it in place for like 24 hours or so. The 'memory' needle will record the highest pressure seen on your domestic side.


image courtesy plumbersurplus.com
 
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Old 12-18-10, 04:49 PM
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I think your right. The water meter was just changed over the summer with a remote type. The problem started around the same time.
Took for granted this could cause a problem. I will buy the gauge at Lowes and I'll put in the expansion tank this week.

As far as the pressure,the quick fill valve may be going bad or the expansion tank I guess.

Thank you very much NJ Trooper.
 
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Old 12-18-10, 07:04 PM
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You would think they would give you the courtesy and let you know that you need to add an expansion tank onto your system. Make sure you get a potable water expansion tank.
 
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Old 12-18-10, 07:19 PM
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Thats true. Not a word about it. They came in, made a mess and left. Nice.
 
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Old 12-18-10, 08:06 PM
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When my water utility changed out the meters a few years ago they only told me they were changing the meter, not that I would then need an expansion tank.

I haven't had any problems with relief valves lifting but that may be due to my having installed large air chambers when I changed the bath tub faucets along with rarely going all that long without using some water. I noticed an intermittent climb of maybe 10-15 psi above my normal 60 psi although since I have valved off my whirlpool tub for some plumbing changes the pressure rise is now more like a maximum of 35 psi bringing maximum pressure to 95 psi. When I install a new water heater I WILL install an expansion tank.
 
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Old 12-19-10, 09:02 AM
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You could look up the data for your new meter at the meter manufacturer's website - and verify whether or not it has a check valve.

One of the largest manufacturers of water meters, Badger Meter, told me that none of their water meters has a check valve. I'm wondering if this concern may be an urban legend.
 
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Old 12-19-10, 09:56 AM
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I don't think it's urban legend, unless the Homeland Security Commission is also a legend. The regulations being adopted by forward looking planners are increasingly specifying meters with backflow preventers. If Badger isn't designing for this, they are going to lose business.

A quick examination of the meter installed should answer the question quickly.

There may also be an additional PRESSURE REDUCING VALVE installed. (also called a REDUCED PRESSURE ZONE (RPZ) valve)
 
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Old 12-19-10, 09:57 AM
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I will look up the manufacturer's spec's. I have been having trouble with the water authority for the past year over too much sedement in the water. They tested it twice and flush the hydrants outside. They say it's "just iron, it wont hurt you".Who needs it?
I go through whole house filters like crazy. If the meter has a check valve, I will submit a claim for the expansion tank install for sure.

Thanks all
 
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Old 12-19-10, 10:32 AM
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This is the meter they installed in 5/8. A Neptune T-10

http://www.tisales.com/pdf/58t10.pdf
 
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Old 12-19-10, 10:43 AM
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That one does NOT have a check valve.

Are there any other devices in line with the service?

I think at this point, you want to run that pressure gauge before doing much else.

What are the specs on your TP valve?
 
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Old 12-19-10, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by paulyd1966 View Post
I go through whole house filters like crazy.
You should used a larger filter or put two or more in parallel. Also, it's best to use a multi-stage filter, with stages going from larger to smaller micron sizes.

I've had good luck with this: Liquitec SDF-45-2010. It's a four-stage filter (75-, 50-, 25- and 10-micron), 20" long, 4.5" o.d., and 1.1" i.d. I change the filter every six months on general principles, even though the pressure drop is still OK at that point. I have no idea how our sediment compares to yours, of course.
 
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Old 12-19-10, 03:44 PM
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The Watts tp valve is 210F and 150psi. I went to Lowes and HD today and neither one had the gauge. I'll go to Blackman tomorrow. The burners pressure has got me concerned the most. I'll blow down the pressure and check the expansion tank and fill valve. The fill valve is old so, I should just change it. Maybe my whole house filter (GE with 10"x4.5"filter)
has a check in it. I'll install the expansion tank in line anyway.
 
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Old 12-19-10, 05:02 PM
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neither one had the gauge
Usually in the section with the in-ground lawn sprinkler stuff...
 
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Old 12-19-10, 05:13 PM
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My Ace Hardware has an assortment of barbed hose-end fittings that can be used to rig up the gauge and a female hose coupling. I used a sink sprayer hose, and a 1/4" threaded gauge connection can be stuck into the hose and connected with a hose clamp.

I think Trooper had a photo of the rig?

I'm happy with the hose arrangement since it gives some maneuvering room for placing the gauge where it is readable and to postion the gauge at the same elevation of the point at which you are trying the measure the pressure.
 
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Old 12-19-10, 05:14 PM
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I'm going back to HD right now. I'll look for it there. Could the pressure build up in the oil burner come from a defective air vent on top of the air scoop? Looking for the simple things first.
 
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Old 12-19-10, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by paulyd1966 View Post
Could the pressure build up in the oil burner come from a defective air vent on top of the air scoop?
What pressure buildup in the oil burner? Best to start a brand new thread for that. But, I can't imagine any tie between the water air removal and the fuel oil system.
 
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Old 12-19-10, 05:30 PM
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Earlier in the thread I mentioned the boiler psi was hanging between 25-30 psi. It is unrelated to the tp valve blowing off. But, I am concerned about it as well. I think the fill valve is bad. As far as the tp valve blownig off, I'll get the expansion tank and see what happens.
 
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Old 12-19-10, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by paulyd1966 View Post
Earlier in the thread I mentioned the boiler psi was hanging between 25-30 psi. It is unrelated to the tp valve blowing off. But, I am concerned about it as well. I think the fill valve is bad. As far as the tp valve blownig off, I'll get the expansion tank and see what happens.
I''m confused - what does all this have to do with the fuel oil pressure?
 
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Old 12-19-10, 05:54 PM
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No. The boiler psi. The temp/psi gauge is reading 25+ psi. Should be about half that.
 
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Old 12-19-10, 06:35 PM
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Oh, OK - I'm with you now.
 
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Old 12-21-10, 01:55 PM
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According to HD, the gauge is a seasonal thing. I'll get one in the spring. Put in the expansion tank and all is well. TP valve is holding. Also bled down the boiler psi and it's been staying between 12-15 psi. So far so good.

Many thanks to all
 
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