TACO zone head (572) issue


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Old 12-18-10, 08:51 AM
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TACO zone head (572) issue

Hi Everyone,
New to DIY forum and need help. I have zone heating (3 areas) set up with Honeywell programmable thermostat. All three zones worked fined however zone 2 (second) no longer does. Went on TACO's website and read the instructions and also possible other reasons that it no longer works. Checked the zone head and wiring looks fine. By accident I removed the head from the base (while testing with the thermostat set to as high as it could go) with the power on and as soon as I did the furnace immediately kicked on. So I immediately put the head unit back on and the furnace turned off. So power doesn't seem to be the issue. My question is why is the head until only working when I take it off the base? Thanks for your help. I'm attached a jpg of the setup.[IMG

Picasa Web Albums - Matt Baker - TACO zone hea...

Matt
 
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Old 12-19-10, 07:31 AM
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I am going to move you over to the boiler section since these guys may know more about this than I do.
 
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Old 12-19-10, 08:07 AM
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Thanks Jay for your help with this.
 
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Old 12-19-10, 09:20 AM
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I think the first thing I would do is swap position of two of the valve heads. If the problem follows the head, replace the head. If the problem stays on the same zone with a different head, then there's some problem with the valve... perhaps 'stuck' and not allowing the head to open the valve.

Is the 'defective' head as hot as the others when it's calling for heat?

The valve heads probably have a spring loading the assembly and when you remove the head the spring activates the 'endswitch' which fires the boiler.
 
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Old 12-19-10, 11:44 AM
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Hi Trooper,
I swapped the 3rd (not in use right now) with the second and the same problem happened. Also the defective head on zone two doesn't get hot like the first zone does.

Thanks,
Matt
 
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Old 12-19-10, 01:24 PM
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Matt, yer confusin' me...

Did the problem FOLLOW THE QUESTIONABLE HEAD?

Is the questionable head the one that doesn't get hot?
 
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Old 12-22-10, 05:00 AM
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Hi Trooper,
Sorry about the delay. I swapped the heads and the problem remained. I then checked the new swapped head to see if it got hot like Zone 1 but it didn't. The only time zone 2 engages is when I pull it away from the base.

Thanks,
Matt
 
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Old 12-22-10, 04:18 PM
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I still am not sure what you are saying...

When you swapped the heads, did the problem follow the swapped head?

OR, did it stay at the same valve with a head that had previously worked on another valve body?

Did you change the wiring from one valve to the other? OR did you just move the head from one place to the next with the wires still connected ?

The only time zone 2 engages is when I pull it away from the base.
With EITHER head?

If you moved the wiring from one valve head to the other, suspect the wiring, or the thermostat... you DID check/change the batteries in the thermostat, right?
 
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Old 12-23-10, 11:06 AM
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No when I swapped the head valve from zone 3 and placed it on the zone 2 base, the same problem occurred. So it seems to be zone 2 specific. I did remove the wires from the original zone 2 head and attached them to zone 3 head and retested with no change. I then swapped out the existing batteries with new ones for the thermostat and the problem remained. The only thing I could think of to try is taking the wiring off the thermostat and doing a direct request (touching the red and white wires) to see if it this works.
 
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Old 12-23-10, 05:02 PM
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So it seems to be zone 2 specific
OK, I think I get it...

You put the zone 3 (good) head on zone 2 valve (bad) and zone 2 still did not work.

When doing this test, you used the existing wiring that was on the (bad) zone 2 head on the (good) zone 3 head.

You still have not ruled out a wiring problem.

When you installed the zone 2 (bad) head on the zone 3 (good) valve, and used the zone 3 (good) wiring connected to the zone 2 (bad) head, did zone 3 still work properly?

The problem is that you are changing more than one thing each time, so you can't rule anything out. It's STILL either the head, OR the wiring.

So... with the SUSPECT head in place on a known good valve, with known good wiring (zone 3) test just that head. If zone 3 works with the suspect head in place, you know that head is GOOD. right?

Are the wires long enough to reach between the valves?

IF SO, take the KNOWN GOOD head WITH THE KNOWN GOOD WIRES and put it on the SUSPECT VALVE BODY. Does that valve now open up and fire the boiler?

IF SO, you know that the VALVE BODY is GOOD.

This would leave only the wiring as suspect. CHECK ALL WIRING. REMOVE all wire nuts one at a time and carefully inspect the wiring for broken wires, or loose connections.

If it STILL won't work, then remove the thermostat and touch those wires together and see if it fires up... if it DOES, then you know the thermostat is bad.

You don't have to do things in this exact order, but whatever order you use, make sure that you only change ONE THING AT A TIME. If you don't do this, you haven't proven anything good/bad.
 
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Old 12-23-10, 05:04 PM
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There is also the tried and true method of using a MULTIMETER to troubleshoot... do you own one and know how to use it?
 
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Old 12-24-10, 06:03 AM
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Hi Trooper,
I will do all your recommendations and also check with the Multimeter (yes I have one and know how to use it) and come back to you. Thanks again for your help!

Matt
 
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Old 12-24-10, 08:12 AM
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In that case, I would put everything back the way it was,

turn all the t'stats all the way down.

Put meter on 1 & 2 on one of the zones and turn up the t'stat. If the t'stat signal is getting to the valve it will go from zero to appx 24VAC.

If you find that you don't get the 24VAC at 1&2 with the t'stat calling, troubleshoot backward toward the thermostat. Vice Versa if you DO get the 24VAC... go forward toward the valve.

Repeat for each zone... use a good zone as 'reference' for what you should see on the bad zone.
 
 

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