Endurance EBP-175 Gives me heat when I don't want it.
#1
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Last night it was warm in the house so i bumped the thermostat back to 62 (was showing a warmer than expected 67
, but we had been cooking with the oven earlier) about an hour later it showed 71 so I knew something was up.
I shut both up and down thermostats off but the heat kept coming
So I shut the boiler off at the unit
I did some web searching and found a manual, a Laars Endurance EBP-175 combination boiler.

The set-up has two external circulators feeding an upstairs zone and a downstairs zone. and inside the unit there is a device called an anti condensing valve. The valve is powered by a Honeywell actuating motor and seems to open when the heat is called for, and close when only hot water is called for.

I have found that if I press the release tab on the back face of the motor and turn the actuator motor 1/4 turn CCW, I can remove the head from the valve and stop the heat from heating when I don't want it to.
How do I determine if:
The valve is bad?
The motor is bad?
The motor is getting the wrong instructions?
Any advice is welcome!
TIA
J


I shut both up and down thermostats off but the heat kept coming

So I shut the boiler off at the unit

I did some web searching and found a manual, a Laars Endurance EBP-175 combination boiler.


The set-up has two external circulators feeding an upstairs zone and a downstairs zone. and inside the unit there is a device called an anti condensing valve. The valve is powered by a Honeywell actuating motor and seems to open when the heat is called for, and close when only hot water is called for.

I have found that if I press the release tab on the back face of the motor and turn the actuator motor 1/4 turn CCW, I can remove the head from the valve and stop the heat from heating when I don't want it to.

The valve is bad?
The motor is bad?
The motor is getting the wrong instructions?
Any advice is welcome!
TIA
J
#2
For some reason the Honeywell site isn't giving me anything useful on that actuator. I also didn't look for the schematic of the boiler itself.
I did find that actuator in the Honeywell catalog though, and all it says is that it is a 24VAC actuator with NO endswitch. It takes 6 seconds to open and close...
I can only guess that when 24VAC is applied to the actuator it will open the valve, and when removed it will close.
Laars has got a website... see if you can find the schematic. Put a link here and I'll take a look see ...
I did find that actuator in the Honeywell catalog though, and all it says is that it is a 24VAC actuator with NO endswitch. It takes 6 seconds to open and close...
I can only guess that when 24VAC is applied to the actuator it will open the valve, and when removed it will close.
Laars has got a website... see if you can find the schematic. Put a link here and I'll take a look see ...
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Murphey makes his appearance
THANKS!! For the assistance NJ-T
Well, After removing the actuator head a couple of times, one while there was a call for heat and resulting water hammer, the valve seems to have unstuck itself. Things are working as they should be?!?!?!?!
I did some searching in the interest of....the next time it happens because I'm sure it will, and found a schematic at:
http://www.termoingenieria.cl/up/pdf...C60,%20VC8.pdf
I'm not sure how to troubleshoot something that isn't misbehaving so I guess I just wait. In the mean time though I am going to try to understand how the system works, and how the actuator works.
Well, After removing the actuator head a couple of times, one while there was a call for heat and resulting water hammer, the valve seems to have unstuck itself. Things are working as they should be?!?!?!?!
I did some searching in the interest of....the next time it happens because I'm sure it will, and found a schematic at:
http://www.termoingenieria.cl/up/pdf...C60,%20VC8.pdf
I'm not sure how to troubleshoot something that isn't misbehaving so I guess I just wait. In the mean time though I am going to try to understand how the system works, and how the actuator works.
#4
That's half the puzzle! We would need the schematic for the boiler as well.
It's pretty straightforward how the valve works... so if we can see what's driving it... we might know the other half...
It's pretty straightforward how the valve works... so if we can see what's driving it... we might know the other half...